Strabo · Geography Γεωγραφικά

Strabo, Geography 17.1.20–26: The eastern Delta, Pelusium and the Red Sea canal

Strabo continues through the eastern nomes of the Delta to Tanis and Pelusium, then goes up the river by Momemphis, Naucratis and Sais. At Momemphis the people worship Aphrodite (Venus) and keep a sacred cow, and near Sais the burial of Osiris is disputed, with a story of Isis hiding coffins from Typhon. He discusses the schoenus measure and the canal to the Arabian Gulf through the Bitter Lakes, attributed to Sesostris and later to Darius and the later kings.

Sections 17.1.20–26 · 1064 words · click a number to copy its link

συνάπτει δὲ καὶ ὁ Ἀθριβίτης νομὸς καὶ Ἄθριβις πόλις καὶ ἔτι ὁ Προσωπίτης νομός, ἐν ᾧ Ἀφροδίτης πόλις. ὑπὲρ δὲ τὸ Μενδήσιον στόμα καὶ τὸ Τανιτικὸν λίμνη μεγάλη καὶ ὁ Μενδήσιός ἐστι νομὸς καὶ ὁ Λεοντοπολίτης καὶ πόλις Ἀφροδίτης καὶ ὁ Φαρβητίτης νομός· εἶτα τὸ Τανιτικὸν στόμα ὅ τινες Σαϊτικὸν λέγουσι, καὶ ὁ Τανίτης νομὸς καὶ πόλις ἐν αὐτῷ μεγάλη Τάνις.

Contiguous to the Busirite Nome are the Athribite Nome and the city Athribis; next the Prosopite Nome, in which latter is Aphroditopolis (the city of Venus). Above the Mendesian and the Tanitic mouths are a large lake, and the Mendesian and Leontopolite Nomes, and a city of Aphrodite (or Venus) and the Pharbetite Nome. Then follows the Tanitic, which some call the Saitic mouth, and the Tanite Nome, and in it Tanis a large city.

μεταξὺ δὲ τοῦ Τανιτικοῦ καὶ τοῦ Πηλουσιακοῦ λίμναι καὶ ἕλη μεγάλα καὶ συνεχῆ κώμας πολλὰς ἔχοντα· καὶ αὐτὸ δὲ τὸ Πηλούσιον κύκλῳ περικείμενα ἔχει ἕλη, ἅ τινες βάραθρα καλοῦσι, καὶ τέλματα· ᾤκισται δʼ ἀπὸ θαλάττης ἐν πλείοσιν ἢ εἴκοσι σταδίοις, τὸν δὲ κύκλον ἔχει τοῦ τείχους σταδίων εἴκοσιν· ὠνόμασται δʼ ἀπὸ τοῦ πηλοῦ καὶ τῶν τελμάτων. ταύτῃ δὲ καὶ δυσείσβολός ἐστιν ἡ Αἴγυπτος ἐκ τῶν ἑωθινῶν τόπων τῶν κατὰ Φοινίκην καὶ τὴν Ἰουδαίαν· καὶ ἐκ τῆς Ἀραβίας δὲ τῆς Ναβαταίων ἥπερ ἐστὶ προσεχής, διὰ τούτων ἐπὶ τὴν Αἴγυπτον ἡ ὁδός. ἡ δὲ μεταξὺ τοῦ Νείλου καὶ τοῦ Ἀραβίου κόλπου Ἀραβία μέν ἐστι, καὶ ἐπί γε τῶν ἄκρων αὐτῆς ἵδρυται τὸ Πηλούσιον· ἀλλʼ ἔρημος ἅπασά ἐστι καὶ ἄβατος στρατοπέδῳ. ὁ δὲ μεταξὺ ἰσθμὸς Πηλουσίου καὶ τοῦ μυχοῦ τοῦ καθʼ Ἡρώων πόλιν χιλίων μέν ἐστι σταδίων, ὡς δὲ Ποσειδώνιός φησιν ἐλαττόνων ἢ χιλίων καὶ πεντακοσίων· πρὸς δὲ τῷ ἄνυδρος εἶναι καὶ ἀμμώδης ἑρπετῶν πλῆθος ἔχει τῶν ἀμμοδυτῶν.

Between the Tanitic and the Pelusiac mouths are lakes and large and continuous marshes, among which are numerous villages. Pelusium itself has many marshes lying around it, which some call Barathra (or water holes), and swamps. It is situated at a distance of more than 20 stadia from the sea. The circumference of the wall is 20 stadia. It has its name from the mud (πηλοῦ) of the swamps. On this quarter Egypt is difficult of access, i. e. from the eastern side towards Phoenicia and Judaea, and on the side of Arabia Nabataea, which is contiguous; through which countries the road to Egypt lies.

The country between the Nile and the Arabian Gulf is Arabia, and at its extremity is situated Pelusium. But the whole is desert, and not passable by an army. The isthmus between Pelusium and the recess of the Arabian Gulf near Heroopolis is 1000 stadia; but, according to Poseidonius, less than 1500 stadia in extent. Besides its being sandy and without water, it abounds with reptiles, which burrow in the sand.

Ἀπὸ δὲ Σχεδίας ἀναπλέουσιν ἐπὶ Μέμφιν ἐν δεξιᾷ μέν εἰσι πάμπολλαι κῶμαι μέχρι τῆς Μαρείας λίμνης, ὧν ἐστι καὶ ἡ Χαβρίου κώμη καλουμένη· ἐπὶ δὲ τῷ ποταμῷ Ἑρμοῦ πόλις ἐστίν· εἶτα Γυναικῶν πόλις καὶ νομὸς Γυναικοπολίτης· ἐφεξῆς δὲ Μώμεμφις καὶ Μωμεμφίτης νομός· μεταξὺ δὲ διώρυγες πλείους εἰς τὴν Μαρεῶτιν. οἱ δὲ Μωμεμφῖται τὴν Ἀφροδίτην τιμῶσι, καὶ τρέφεται θήλεια βοῦς ἱερά, καθάπερ ἐν Μέμφει ὁ Ἆπις, ἐν Ἡλίου δὲ πόλει ὁ Μνεῦις· οὗτοι μὲν οὖν θεοὶ νομίζονται, οἱ δὲ παρὰ τοῖς ἄλλοις, παρὰ πολλοῖς γὰρ δὴ ἔν τε τῷ Δέλτα καὶ ἔξω αὐτοῦ τοῖς μὲν ἄρρην τοῖς δὲ θήλεια τρέφεται, οὗτοι δὲ θεοὶ μὲν οὐ νομίζονται ἱεροὶ δέ.

In sailing up the river from Schedia to Memphis, on the right hand, are a great many villages extending as far as the lake Mareia, among which is that called the village of Chabrias. Upon the river is Hermopolis, then Gynaecopolis, and the Gynaecopolite Nome; next Momemphis and the Momemphite Nome. Between these places are many canals, which empty themselves into the lake Mareotis. The Momemphitae worship Venus, and a sacred cow is kept there, as Apis is maintained at Memphis, and Mneyis at Heliopolis. These animals are regarded as gods, but there are other places, and these are numerous, both in the Delta and beyond it, in which a bull or a cow is maintained, which are not regarded as gods, but only as sacred.

̔υπὲρ δὲ Μωμέμφεώς εἰσι δύο νιτρίαι πλεῖστον νίτρον ἔχουσαι καὶ νομὸς Νιτριώτης. τιμᾶται δʼ ἐνταῦθα ὁ Σάραπις καὶ παρὰ μόνοις τούτοις θύεται ἐν Αἰγύπτῳ πρόβατον· πλησίον δὲ καὶ ἐνταῦθα πόλις Μενέλαος, ἐν ἀριστερᾷ δὲ ἐν τῷ Δέλτα ἐπὶ μὲν τῷ ποταμῷ Ναύκρατις, ἀπὸ δὲ τοῦ ποταμοῦ δίσχοινον διέχουσα ἡ Σάις καὶ μικρὸν ταύτης ὕπερθε τὸ τοῦ Ὀσίριδος ἄσυλον, ἐν ᾧ κεῖσθαι τὸν Ὄσιρίν φασιν. ἀμφισβητοῦσι δὲ τούτου πολλοί, καὶ μάλιστα οἱ τὰς Φιλὰς οἰκοῦντες τὰς ὑπὲρ Συήνης καὶ τῆς Ἐλεφαντίνης. μυθεύουσι γὰρ δὴ διότι ἡ Ἶσις κατὰ πολλοὺς τόπους κατὰ γῆς θείη σοροὺς τοῦ Ὀσίριδος (μία δὲ τούτων ἦν ἔχουσα τὸν Ὄσιριν ἀφανὴς πᾶσι), τοῦτο δὲ πράξειε λαθεῖν βουλομένη τὸν Τυφῶνα, μὴ ἐπελθὼν ἐκρίψειε τὸ σῶμα τῆς θήκης.

Above Momemphis are two nitre mines, which furnish nitre in large quantities, and the Nitriote Nome. Here Sarapis is worshipped, and they are the only people in Egypt who sacrifice a sheep. In this nome and near this place is a city called Menelaus. On the left hand in the Delta, upon the river, is Naucratis. At the distance of two schoeni from the river is Saïs, and a little above it the asylum of Osiris, in which it is said Osiris is buried. This, however, is questioned by many persons, and particularly by the inhabitants of Philae, which is situated above Syene and Elephantina. These people tell this tale, that Isis placed coffins of Osiris in various places, but that one only contained the body of Osiris, so that no one knew which of them it was; and that she did this with the intention of concealing it from Typhon, who might come and cast the body out of its place of deposit.

Ἀπὸ μὲν δὴ τῆς Ἀλεξανδρείας ἐπὶ τὴν τοῦ Δέλτα κορυφὴν αὕτη ἡ περιήγησις. φησὶ δʼ ὁ Ἀρτεμίδωρος σχοίνων ὀκτὼ καὶ εἴκοσι τὸν ἀνάπλουν, τοῦτο δʼ εἶναι σταδίους ὀκτακοσίους τετταράκοντα, λογιζόμενος τριακονταστάδιον τὴν σχοῖνον· ἡμῖν μέντοι πλέουσιν ἄλλοτʼ ἄλλῳ μέτρῳ χρώμενοι τῶν σχοίνων ἀπεδίδοσαν τὰ διαστήματα, ὥστε καὶ τετταρακοντασταδίους καὶ ἔτι μείζους κατὰ τόπους ὁμολογεῖσθαι παρʼ αὐτῶν. καὶ διότι παρὰ τοῖς Αἰγυπτίοις ἄστατόν ἐστι τὸ τῆς σχοίνου μέτρον, αὐτὸς ὁ Ἀρτεμίδωρος ἐν τοῖς ἑξῆς δηλοῖ. ἀπὸ μὲν γὰρ Μέμφεως μέχρι Θηβαΐδος τὴν σχοῖνον ἑκάστην φησὶν εἶναι σταδίων ἑκατὸν εἴκοσιν, ἀπὸ δὲ τῆς Θηβαΐδος μέχρι Συήνης ἑξήκοντα, ἀπὸ δὲ Πηλουσίου πρὸς τὴν αὐτὴν ἀναπλέουσι κορυφὴν σχοίνους μὲν πέντε καὶ εἴκοσί φησι σταδίους δὲ ἑπτακοσίους πεντήκοντα, τῷ αὐτῷ μέτρῳ χρησάμενος. πρώτην δʼ ἐκ τοῦ Πηλουσίου προελθοῦσιν εἶναι διώρυγα τὴν πληροῦσαν τὰς κατὰ τὰ ἕλη καλουμένας λίμνας, αἳ δύο μέν εἰσιν, ἐν ἀριστερᾷ δὲ κεῖνται τοῦ μεγάλου ποταμοῦ ὑπὲρ τὸ Πηλούσιον ἐν τῇ Ἀραβίᾳ· καὶ ἄλλας δὲ λέγει λίμνας καὶ διώρυγας ἐν τοῖς αὐτοῖς μέρεσιν ἔξω τοῦ Δέλτα. ἔστι δὲ καὶ νομὸς Σεθρωίτης παρὰ τὴν ἑτέραν λίμνην· ἕνα δὲ τῶν δέκα τῶν ἐν τῷ Δέλτα διαριθμεῖται καὶ τοῦτον· εἰς δὲ τὰς αὐτὰς λίμνας συμβάλλουσι καὶ ἄλλαι δύο διώρυγες.

This is the description of the country from Alexandreia to the vertex of the Delta.

Artemidorus says, that the navigation up the river is 28 schoeni, which amount to 840 stadia, reckoning the schoenus at 30 stadia. When we ourselves sailed up the river, schoeni of different measures were used at different places in giving the distances, so that sometimes the received schoenus was a measure of 40 stadia and even more. That the measure of the schoenus was unsettled among the Egyptians, Artemidorus himself shows in a subsequent place. In reckoning the distance from Memphis to Thebais, he says that each schoenus consists of 120 stadia, and from the Thebaïs to Syene of 60 stadia. In sailing up from Pelusium to the same vertex of the Delta, is a distance, he says, of 25 schoeni, or 750 stadia, and he employs the same measure.

On setting out from Pelusium, the first canal met with is that which fills the lakes, near the marshes, as they are called. There are two of these lakes, situated upon the left hand of the great stream above Pelusium in Arabia. He mentions other lakes also, and canals in the same parts beyond the Delta.

The Sethroïte Nome extends along one of the two lakes. He reckons this as one of the ten nomes in the Delta. There are two other canals, which discharge themselves into the same lakes.

ἄλλη δʼ ἐστὶν ἐκδιδοῦσα εἰς τὴν Ἐρυθρὰν καὶ τὸν Ἀράβιον κόλπον κατὰ πόλιν Ἀρσινόην ἣν ἔνιοι Κλεοπατρίδα καλοῦσι. διαρρεῖ δὲ καὶ διὰ τῶν πικρῶν καλουμένων λιμνῶν, αἳ πρότερον μὲν ἦσαν πικραί, τμηθείσης δὲ τῆς διώρυγος τῆς λεχθείσης μετεβάλοντο τῇ κράσει τοῦ ποταμοῦ, καὶ νῦν εἰσιν εὔοψοι, μεσταὶ δὲ καὶ τῶν λιμναίων ὀρνέων. ἐτμήθη δὲ ἡ διῶρυξ κατʼ ἀρχὰς μὲν ὑπὸ Σεσώστριος πρὸ τῶν Τρωικῶν, οἱ δὲ ὑπὸ τοῦ Ψαμμιτίχου παιδός, ἀρξαμένου μόνον, εἶτʼ ἐκλιπόντος τὸν βίον, ὕστερον δὲ ὑπὸ Δαρείου τοῦ πρώτου, διαδεξαμένου τὸ ἑξῆς ἔργον. καὶ οὗτος δὲ δόξῃ ψευδεῖ πεισθεὶς ἀφῆκε τὸ ἔργον περὶ συντέλειαν ἤδη· ἐπείσθη γὰρ μετεωροτέραν εἶναι τὴν Ἐρυθρὰν θάλατταν τῆς Αἰγύπτου καὶ εἰ διακοπείη πᾶς ὁ μεταξὺ ἰσθμός, ἐπικλυσθήσεσθαι τῇ θαλάττῃ τὴν Αἴγυπτον· οἱ μέντοι Πτολεμαϊκοὶ βασιλεῖς διακόψαντες κλειστὸν ἐποίησαν τὸν εὔριπον ὥστε ὅτε βούλοιντο ἐκπλεῖν ἀκωλύτως εἰς τὴν ἔξω θάλατταν καὶ εἰσπλεῖν πάλιν. εἴρηται δὲ καὶ περὶ τῆς τῶν ὑδάτων ἐπιφανείας καὶ ἐν τοῖς πρώτοις ὑπομνήμασι.

There is another canal also, which empties itself into the Red Sea, or Arabian Gulf, near the city Arsinoë, which some call Cleopatris. It flows through the Bitter Lakes, as they are called, which were bitter formerly, but when the above-mentioned canal was cut, the bitter quality was altered by their junction with the river, and at present they contain excellent fish, and abound with aquatic birds.

The canal was first cut by Sesostris before the Trojan times, but according to other writers, by the son of Psammitichus, who only began the work, and afterwards died; lastly, Darius the First succeeded to the completion of the undertaking, but he desisted from continuing the work, when it was nearly finished, influenced by an erroneous opinion that the level of the Red Sea was higher than Egypt, and that if the whole of the intervening isthmus were cut through, the country would be overflowed by the sea. The Ptolemaic kings however did cut through it, and placed locks upon the canal, so that they sailed, when they pleased, without obstruction into the outer sea, and back again [into the canal].

We have spoken of the surfaces of bodies of water in the first part of this work.

πλησίον δὲ τῆς Ἀρσινόης καὶ ἡ τῶν Ἡρώων ἐστὶ πόλις καὶ ἡ Κλεοπατρὶς ἐν τῷ μυχῷ τοῦ Ἀραβίου κόλπου τῷ πρὸς Αἴγυπτον καὶ λιμένες καὶ κατοικίαι διώρυγές τε πλείους καὶ λίμναι πλησιάζουσαι τούτοις· ἐνταῦθα δʼ ἐστὶ καὶ ὁ Φαγρωριοπολίτης νομὸς καὶ πόλις Φαγρωριόπολις. ἡ δὲ ἀρχὴ τῆς διώρυγος τῆς ἐκδιδούσης εἰς τὴν Ἐρυθρὰν ἀπὸ κώμης ἄρχεται Φακούσης, ᾗ συνεχής ἐστι καὶ ἡ Φίλωνος κώμη· πλάτος δʼ ἔχει πηχῶν ἑκατὸν ἡ διῶρυξ, βάθος δʼ ὅσον ἀρκεῖν μυριοφόρῳ νηί· οὗτοι δʼ οἱ τόποι πλησιάζουσι τῇ κορυφῇ τοῦ Δέλτα.

Near Arsinoë are situated in the recess of the Arabian Gulf towards Egypt, Heroopolis and Cleopatris; harbours, suburbs, many canals, and lakes are also near. There also is the Phagroriopolite Nome, and the city Phagroriopolis. The canal, which empties itself into the Red Sea, begins at the village Phaccusa, to which the village of Philon is contiguous. The canal is 100 cubits broad, and its depth sufficient to float a vessel of large burden. These places are near the apex of the Delta.

People and places in this passage

English translation by H. C. Hamilton and W. Falconer (1854). Original text: August Meineke (ed.), Strabonis Geographica, 3 vols., Leipzig: Teubner, 1877 (Greek text as digitised by Perseus).

Greek text and translation from the Perseus Digital Library, Tufts University, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Perseus Digital Library); translation public domain. Introductions, summaries and notes © GreekMythology.com.