Strabo · Geography Γεωγραφικά

Strabo, Geography 17.3.1–3: Africa: Mauretania and the Pillars

Strabo begins the description of Africa, which he compares with Asia and Europe and sees as a right-angled triangle largely desert and torrid. He starts in the west with the Maurusii opposite Spain at the Pillars of Hercules, the mountain Atlas, Lixus and the Phoenician trading bay. He mentions the tales of an altar of Heracles (Hercules) and of three hundred Tyrian cities destroyed by the Pharusii and Nigritae.

Sections 17.3.1–3 · 893 words · click a number to copy its link

περὶ δὲ Λιβύης ἐφεξῆς λέγωμεν, ὅπερ λείπεται μέρος τῆς συμπάσης γεωγραφίας. εἴρηται μὲν οὖν καὶ πρότερον πολλὰ περὶ αὐτῆς, ἀλλὰ καὶ νῦν ὅσα καίρια προσυπομνηστέον, προστιθέντας καὶ τὰ μὴ λεχθέντα πρότερον. οἱ μὲν οὖν πρὸς τὰς ἠπείρους τὴν οἰκουμένην διελόντες ἀνίσως διεῖλον· ἐμφαίνει γὰρ τὸ τριχῆ τὸ εἰς τρία ἴσα· τοσοῦτο δʼ ἀπολείπεται τοῦ τρίτον εἶναι μέρος τῆς οἰκουμένης ἡ Λιβύη ὥστε καὶ συντεθεῖσα μετὰ τῆς Εὐρώπης οὐκ ἂν ἐξισάζειν δόξειε τῇ Ἀσίᾳ· τάχα δὲ καὶ τῆς Εὐρώπης ἐλάττων ἐστί, κατὰ δὲ τὴν δύναμιν καὶ πολλῷ τινι· ἔρημος γάρ ἐστιν ἡ πολλὴ τῆς μεσογαίας καὶ τῆς παρωκεανίτιδος, κατοικίαις δὲ κατάστικτός ἐστι μικραῖς καὶ σποράσι καὶ νομαδικαῖς ταῖς πλείσταις· πρὸς δὲ τῇ ἐρημίᾳ καὶ τὸ θηριοτρόφον ἐξελαύνει καὶ ἐκ τῆς δυναμένης οἰκεῖσθαι· πολὺ δὲ καὶ τῆς διακεκαυμένης ἐπιλαμβάνει ζώνης. ἡ μέντοι καθʼ ἡμᾶς εὐδαιμόνως οἰκεῖται πᾶσα παραλία ἡ μεταξὺ Νείλου καὶ στηλῶν, καὶ μάλιστα ἡ ὑπὸ Καρχηδονίοις γενομένη· ἀνυδρίαι δέ τινες κἀνταῦθα παρεμπίπτουσιν, οἷαι περί τε τὰς Σύρτεις καὶ τοὺς Μαρμαρίδας καὶ τὸν Καταβαθμόν. ἔστι δὲ ὀρθογωνίου τριγώνου τὸ σχῆμα, ὡς ἄν τις ἐν ἐπιπέδῳ νοήσειε, βάσιν μὲν ἔχον τὴν καθʼ ἡμᾶς παραλίαν τὴν ἀπὸ τῆς Αἰγύπτου καὶ Νείλου μέχρι Μαυρουσίας καὶ στηλῶν, πρὸς ὀρθὰς δὲ ταύτῃ πλευρὰν ἣν ὁ Νεῖλος ποιεῖ μέχρι Αἰθιοπίας, προσεκβαλλόντων ἡμῶν ἕως Ὠκεανοῦ, τὴν δʼ ὑποτείνουσαν τῇ ὀρθῇ τὴν παρωκεανῖτιν ἅπασαν τὴν μεταξὺ Αἰθιόπων καὶ Μαυρουσίων. τὸ μὲν οὖν κατʼ αὐτὴν τὴν κορυφὴν τοῦ λεχθέντος σχήματος ἤδη πως ὑποπῖπτον τῇ διακεκαυμένῃ λέγομεν ἐξ εἰκασμοῦ διὰ τὸ ἀπρόσιτον, ὥστʼ οὐδὲ τὸ μέγιστον πλάτος τῆς χώρας ἔχοιμεν ἂν λέγειν· τὸ μέντοι τοσοῦτον ἐν τοῖς πρόσθεν λόγοις ἔφαμεν ὅτι ἐξ Ἀλεξανδρείας εἰς Μερόην τὸ βασίλειον τῶν Αἰθιόπων πρὸς νότον ἰόντι στάδιοί εἰσι περὶ μυρίους, ἐκεῖθεν δʼ ἐπʼ εὐθείας ἐπὶ τοὺς ὅρους τῆς διακεκαυμένης καὶ τῆς οἰκουμένης ἄλλοι τρισχίλιοι· τὸ γοῦν αὐτὸ θετέον τὸ μέγιστον πλάτος τῆς Λιβύης, μυρίους καὶ τρισχιλίους ἢ τετρακισχιλίους σταδίους, μῆκος δὲ μικρῷ ἔλαττον ἢ διπλάσιον. τὰ καθʼ ὅλου μὲν ταῦτα περὶ Λιβύης· τὰ καθʼ ἕκαστα δὲ λεκτέον ἀρξαμένοις ἀπὸ τῶν ἑσπερίων μερῶν καὶ τῶν ἐπιφανεστέρων.

WE shall next describe Africa, which is the remaining portion of the whole description of the earth.

We have before said much respecting it; but at present I shall further describe what suits my purpose, and add what has not been previously mentioned.

The writers who have divided the habitable world according to continents, divide it unequally. But a threefold division denotes a division into three equal parts. Africa, however, wants so much of being a third part of the habitable world, that, even if it were united to Europe, it would not be equal to Asia; perhaps it is even less than Europe; in resources it is very much inferior, for a great part of the inland and maritime country is desert. It is spotted over with small habitable parts, which are scattered about, and mostly belonging to nomade tribes. Besides the desert state of the country, its being a nursery of wild beasts is a hindrance to settlement in parts which could be inhabited. It comprises also a large part of the torrid zone.

All the sea-coast in our quarter, situated between the Nile and the Pillars, particularly that which belonged to the Carthaginians, is fertile and inhabited. And even in this tract, some spots destitute of water intervene, as those about the Syrtes, the Marmaridae, and the Catabathmus.

The shape of Africa is that of a right-angled triangle, if we imagine its figure to be drawn on a plane surface. Its base is the coast opposite to us, extending from Egypt and the Nile to Mauretania and the Pillars; at right angles to this is a side formed by the Nile to Ethiopia, which side we continue to the ocean; the hypothenuse of the right angle is the whole tract of sea-coast lying between Ethiopia and Mauretania.

As the part situated at the vertex of the above-mentioned figure, and lying almost entirely under the torrid zone, is inaccessible, we speak of it from conjecture, and therefore cannot say what is the greatest breadth of the country. In a former part of this work we have said, that the distance proceeding from Alexandreia southwards to Meroë, the royal seat of the Ethiopians, is about 10,000 stadia; thence in a straight line to the borders of the torrid zone and the habitable country, 3000 stadia. The sum, therefore, may be assumed as the greatest breadth of Africa, which is 13,000 or 14,000 stadia: its length may be a little less than double this sum. So much then on the subject of Africa in general. I am now to describe its several parts, beginning from the most celebrated on the west.

οἰκοῦσι δʼ ἐνταῦθα Μαυρούσιοι μὲν ὑπὸ τῶν Ἑλλήνων λεγόμενοι, Μαῦροι δʼ ὑπὸ τῶν Ῥωμαίων καὶ τῶν ἐπιχωρίων, Λιβυκὸν ἔθνος μέγα καὶ εὔδαιμον, ἀντίπορθμον τῇ Ἰβηρίᾳ. κατὰ τοῦτο δὲ καὶ ὁ κατὰ τὰς στήλας τὰς Ἡρακλείους πορθμός ἐστι, περὶ οὗ πολλὰ εἴρηται. ἔξω δὲ προελθόντι τοῦ κατὰ τὰς στήλας πορθμοῦ, τὴν Λιβύην ἐν ἀριστερᾷ ἔχοντι ὄρος ἐστίν, ὅπερ οἱ μὲν Ἕλληνες Ἄτλαντα καλοῦσιν οἱ βάρβαροι δὲ Δύριν. ἐντεῦθεν δὲ πρόπους ἔκκειταί τις ὕστατος πρὸς δύσιν τῆς Μαυρουσίας αἱ Κώτεις λεγόμεναι· πλησίον δὲ καὶ πολίχνιον μικρὸν ὑπὲρ τῆς θαλάττης, ὅπερ Τρίγγα καλοῦσιν οἱ βάρβαροι, Λύγγα δʼ ὁ Ἀρτεμίδωρος προσηγόρευκε, Ἐρατοσθένης δὲ Λίξον· κεῖται δʼ ἀντίπορθμον τοῖς Γαδείροις ἐν διάρματι σταδίων ὀκτακοσίων, ὅσον ἑκάτερα διέχει τοῦ κατὰ τὰς στήλας πορθμοῦ· πρὸς νότον δὲ τῇ Λίξῳ καὶ ταῖς Κώτεσι παράκειται κόλπος Ἐμπορικὸς καλούμενος, ἔχων Φοινικικὰς ἐμπορικὰς κατοικίας. ἔστι μὲν οὖν πᾶσα ἡ συνεχὴς τῷ κόλπῳ τούτῳ παραλία κολπώδης, ὑπεξαιρουμένῳ δὲ τοὺς κόλπους καὶ τὰς ἐξοχὰς κατὰ τὸ σχῆμα τὸ τριγωνοειδὲς ὃ ὑπέγραψα, νοείσθω μᾶλλον ἐπὶ τὴν μεσημβρίαν ἅμα καὶ τὴν ἕω λαμβάνουσα τὴν αὔξησιν ἡ ἤπειρος. τὸ δʼ ὄρος διὰ μέσης ἐκτεινόμενον τῆς Μαυρουσίας τὸ ἀπὸ τῶν Κώτεων μέχρι καὶ Σύρτεων οἰκεῖται καὶ αὐτὸ καὶ ἄλλα παράλληλα αὐτῷ κατʼ ἀρχὰς μὲν ὑπὸ τῶν Μαυρουσίων, ἐν βάθει δὲ τῆς χώρας ὑπὸ τοῦ μεγίστου τῶν Λιβυκῶν ἐθνῶν, οἳ Γαίτουλοι λέγονται.

Here dwell a people called by the Greeks Maurusii, and by the Romans and the natives Mauri, a populous and flourishing African nation, situated opposite to Spain, on the other side of the strait, at the Pillars of Hercules, which we have frequently mentioned before. On proceeding beyond the strait at the Pillars, with Africa on the left hand, we come to a mountain which the Greeks call Atlas, and the barbarians Dyris. Thence projects into the sea a point formed by the foot of the mountain towards the west of Mauretania, and called the Coteis. Near it is a small town, a little above the sea, which the barbarians call Trinx; Artemidorus, Lynx; and Eratosthenes, Lixus. It lies on the side of the strait opposite to Gadeira, from which it is separated by a passage of 800 stadia, the width of the strait at the Pillars between both places. To the south, near Lixus and the Coteis, is a bay called Emporicus, having upon it Phoenician mercantile settlements. The whole coast continuous with this bay abounds with them. Subtracting these bays, and the projections of land in the triangular figure which I have described, the continent may rather be considered as increasing in magnitude in the direction of south and east. The mountain which extends through the middle of Mauretania, from the Coteis to the Syrtes, is itself inhabited, as well as others running parallel to it, first by the Maurusii, but deep in the interior of the country by the largest of the African tribes, called Gaetuli.

πλεῖστα δὲ πλάσματα τῇ Λιβυκῇ παραλίᾳ τῇ ἐκτὸς προσεψεύσαντο οἱ συγγραφεῖς ἀρξάμενοι ἀπὸ τοῦ Ὀφέλα περίπλου, περὶ ὧν ἐμνήσθημέν που καὶ πρότερον, καὶ νῦν δὲ λέγομεν, συγγνώμην αἰτούμενοι τῆς τερατολογίας, ἐάν που βιασθῶμεν ἐκπεσεῖν εἴς τι τοιοῦτο, φεύγοντες τὸ πάντα σιγῇ παραπέμπειν καὶ τρόπον τινὰ πηροῦν τὴν ἱστορίαν. φασὶ δʼ οὖν τὸν Ἐμπορικὸν κόλπον ἄντρον ἔχειν εἴσω δεχόμενον τὴν θάλατταν ἐν ταῖς πλημμυρίσι μέχρι καὶ ἑπτὰ σταδίων, προκείμενον δὲ τούτου ταπεινὸν καὶ ὁμαλὸν χωρίον ἔχον Ἡρακλέους βωμόν, ὃν οὐκ ἐπικλύζεσθαί φασιν ὑπὸ τῆς πλημμυρίδος. ἓν δὲ δή τι τῶν πλασμάτων νομίζω τοῦτο, ἐγγὺς δὲ τούτῳ τὸ ἐν τοῖς ἑξῆς κόλποις κατοικίας λέγεσθαι παλαιὰς Τυρίων, ἃς ἐρήμους εἶναι νῦν, οὐκ ἐλαττόνων ἢ τριακοσίων πόλεων, ἃς οἱ Φαρούσιοι καὶ οἱ Νιγρῖται ἐξεπόρθησαν· διέχειν δὲ τούτους τῆς Λυγγός φασιν ἡμερῶν τριάκοντα ὁδόν.

Historians, beginning with the voyage of Ophelas (Apellas ?), have invented a great number of fables respecting the sea-coast of Africa beyond the Pillars. We have mentioned them before, and mention them now, requesting our readers to pardon the introduction of marvellous stories, whenever we may be compelled to relate anything of the kind, being unwilling to pass them over entirely in silence, and so in a manner to mutilate our account of the country.

It is said, that the Sinus Emporicus (or merchants’ bay) has a cave which admits the sea at high tide to the distance even of seven stadia, and in front of this bay a low and level tract with an altar of Hercules upon it, which, they say, is not covered by the tide. This I, of course, consider to be one of the fictitious stories. Like this is the tale, that on other bays in the succeeding coast there were ancient settlements of Tyrians, now abandoned, which consisted of not less than three hundred cities, and were destroyed by the Pharusii and the Nigritae. These people, they say, are distant thirty days’ journey from Lynx.

People and places in this passage

English translation by H. C. Hamilton and W. Falconer (1854). Original text: August Meineke (ed.), Strabonis Geographica, 3 vols., Leipzig: Teubner, 1877 (Greek text as digitised by Perseus).

Greek text and translation from the Perseus Digital Library, Tufts University, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Perseus Digital Library); translation public domain. Introductions, summaries and notes © GreekMythology.com.