Strabo · Geography Γεωγραφικά

Strabo, Geography 7.7.4–5: The Egnatian Way and the coast of Epirus

Strabo describes the Egnatian Way from Apollonia and Epidamnus to Thessalonica and the lands on either side, with Macedonia, Thrace and the seas of Greece. He then lists the Epirote peoples, the Chaones, Thesproti and Molotti, the Aeacidae kings, and the oracle of Dodona. He follows the Epirote coast with its harbours, the river Acheron and Nicopolis founded by Augustus.

Sections 7.7.4–5 · 920 words · click a number to copy its link

ταύτης δὴ τὰ πρῶτα μέρη τὰ περὶ Ἐπίδαμνον καὶ Ἀπολλωνίαν ἐστίν. ἐκ δὲ τῆς Ἀπολλωνίας εἰς Μακεδονίαν ἡ Ἐγνατία ἐστὶν ὁδὸς πρὸς ἕω, βεβηματισμένη κατὰ μίλιον καὶ κατεστηλωμένη μέχρι Κυψέλων καὶ Ἕβρου ποταμοῦ· μιλίων δʼ ἐστὶ πεντακοσίων τριάκοντα πέντε· λογιζομένῳ δέ, ὡς μὲν οἱ πολλοί, τὸ μίλιον ὀκταστάδιον τετρακισχίλιοι ἂν εἶεν στάδιοι καὶ ἐπʼ αὐτοῖς διακόσιοι ὀγδοήκοντα, ὡς δὲ Πολύβιος προστιθεὶς τῷ ὀκτασταδίῳ δίπλεθρον, ὅ ἐστι τρίτον σταδίου, προσθετέον ἄλλους σταδίους ἑκατὸν ἑβδομήκοντα ὀκτώ, τὸ τρίτον τοῦ τῶν μιλίων ἀριθμοῦ. συμβαίνει δʼ ἀπὸ ἴσου διαστήματος συμπίπτειν εἰς τὴν αὐτὴν ὁδὸν τούς τʼ ἐκ τῆς Ἀπολλωνίας ὁρμηθέντας καὶ τοὺς ἐξ Ἐπιδάμνου. ἡ μὲν οὖν πᾶσα Ἐγνατία καλεῖται, ἡ δὲ πρώτη ἐπὶ Κανδαουίας λέγεται ὄρους Ἰλλυρικοῦ, διὰ Λυχνιδοῦ πόλεως καὶ Πυλῶνος τόπου ὁρίζοντος ἐν τῇ ὁδῷ τήν τε Ἰλλυρίδα καὶ τὴν Μακεδονίαν· ἐκεῖθεν δʼ ἐστὶ παρὰ Βαρνοῦντα διὰ Ἡρακλείας καὶ Λυγκηστῶν καὶ Ἐορδῶν εἰς Ἔδεσσαν καὶ Πέλλαν μέχρι Θεσσαλονικείας· μίλια δʼ ἐστί, φησὶ Πολύβιος, ταῦτα διακόσια ἑξήκοντα ἑπτά. ταύτην δὴ τὴν ὁδὸν ἐκ τῶν περὶ τὴν Ἐπίδαμνον καὶ τὴν Ἀπολλωνίαν τόπων ἰοῦσιν ἐν δεξιᾷ μέν ἐστι τὰ Ἠπειρωτικὰ ἔθνη κλυζόμενα τῷ Σικελικῷ πελάγει μέχρι τοῦ Ἀμβρακικοῦ κόλπου, ἐν ἀριστερᾷ δὲ τὰ ὄρη τὰ τῶν Ἰλλυριῶν ἃ προδιήλθομεν, καὶ τὰ ἔθνη τὰ παροικοῦντα μέχρι Μακεδονίας καὶ Παιόνων. εἶτʼ ἀπὸ μὲν Ἀμβρακικοῦ κόλπου τὰ νεύοντα ἐφεξῆς πρὸς ἕω, τὰ ἀντιπαρήκοντα τῇ Πελοποννήσῳ, τῆς Ἑλλάδος ἐστίν· εἶτʼ ἐκπίπτει τὸ Αἰγαῖον πέλαγος ἀπολιπόντα ἐν δεξιᾷ τὴν Πελοπόννησον ὅλην. ἀπὸ δὲ τῆς ἀρχῆς τῶν Μακεδονικῶν ὀρῶν καὶ τῶν Παιονικῶν μέχρι Στρυμόνος ποταμοῦ Μακεδόνες τε οἰκοῦσι καὶ Παίονες καί τινες τῶν ὀρεινῶν Θρᾳκῶν· τὰ δὲ πέραν Στρυμόνος ἤδη μέχρι τοῦ Ποντικοῦ στόματος καὶ τοῦ Αἵμου πάντα Θρᾳκῶν ἔστι πλὴν τῆς παραλίας· αὕτη δʼ ὑφʼ Ἑλλήνων οἰκεῖται, τῶν μὲν ἐπὶ τῇ Προποντίδι ἱδρυμένων, τῶν δὲ ἐφʼ Ἑλλησπόντῳ καὶ τῷ Μέλανι κόλπῳ, τῶν δʼ ἐπὶ τῷ Αἰγαίῳ. τὸ δʼ Αἰγαῖον πέλαγος δύο κλύζει πλευρὰς τῆς Ἑλλάδος, τὴν μὲν πρὸς ἕω βλέπουσαν, τείνουσαν δὲ ἀπὸ Σουνίου πρὸς τὴν ἄρκτον μέχρι τοῦ Θερμαίου κόλπου καὶ Θεσσαλονικείας Μακεδονικῆς πόλεως, ἣ νῦν μάλιστα τῶν ἄλλων εὐανδρεῖ, τὴν δὲ πρὸς νότον τὴν Μακεδονικὴν ἀπὸ Θεσσαλονικείας μέχρι Στρυμόνος· τινὲς δὲ καὶ τὴν ἀπὸ Στρυμόνος μέχρι Νέστου τῇ Μακεδονίᾳ προσνέμουσιν, ἐπειδὴ Φίλιππος ἐσπούδασε διαφερόντως περὶ ταῦτα τὰ χωρία ὥστʼ ἐξιδιώσασθαι, καὶ συνεστήσατο προσόδους μεγίστας ἐκ τῶν μετάλλων καὶ τῆς ἄλλης εὐφυΐας τῶν τόπων. ἀπὸ δὲ Σουνίου μέχρι Πελοποννήσου τὸ Μυρτῷον ἔστι καὶ Κρητικὸν πέλαγος καὶ Λιβυκὸν σὺν τοῖς κόλποις μέχρι τοῦ Σικελικοῦ· τοῦτο δὲ καὶ τὸν Ἀμβρακικὸν καὶ Κορινθιακὸν καὶ Κρισαῖον ἐκπληροῖ κόλπον.

The first parts of this coast are those about Epidamnus and Apollonia. From Apollonia to Macedonia is the Egnatian Way; its direction is towards the east, and the distance is measured by pillars at every mile, as far as Cypselus and the river Hebrus. The whole distance is 535 miles. But reckoning, as the generality of persons reckon, a mile at eight stadia, there may be 4280 stadia. And according to Polybius, who adds two plethra, that is, the third of a stadium, to every eight stadia, we must add 178 stadia more, a third part of the number of miles. A traveller from Apollonia, and a traveller from Epidamnus, on the same road, meet midway between the two cities. The whole is called the Egnatian Way. The first part of it is called the road to Candavia, which is an Illyrian mountain. It passes through Lychnidus, a city, and Pylon, a place which separates Illyria from Macedonia. Thence its direction is beside Barnus through Heracleia, the Lyncestae, and the Eordi, to Edessa and Pella, as far as Thessalonica. Polybius says, that this is a distance of 267 miles. In travelling this road from the neighbourhood of Epidamnus and Apollonia, on the right hand are the Epirotic nations situated on the coast of the Sicilian Sea, and extending as far as the Gulf of Ambracia; on the left are the Illyrian mountains, which we have before described, and the nations that live near them, extending as far as Macedonia and the Paeones. From the Gulf of Ambracia the places next in order, inclining to the east, and extending opposite to Peloponnesus, belong to Greece; they terminate at the Aegean Sea, leaving the whole of Peloponnesus on the right hand.

The country, from the commencement of the Macedonian and Paeonian mountains, as far as the river Strymon, is inhabited by Macedonians, and Paeones, and some of the Thracian mountain tribes. But all the country on the other side the Strymon, as far as the mouth of the Euxine Sea, and Mount Haemus, belong to the Thracians, except the coast, which is occupied by Greeks, some of whom are settled on the Propontis, others on the Hellespont and on the Gulf Melas, and others on the Aegean Sea.

The Aegean Sea waters two sides of Greece; first, the eastern side, extending from the promontory Sunium to the north as far as the Thermaean Gulf, and Thessalonica, a Macedonian city, which has, at present, the largest population in these parts. Then the southern side, which is a part of Macedonia, extending from Thessalonica to the Strymon. Some writers assign the coast from the Strymon as far as Nestus to Macedonia. For Philip showed the greatest solicitude to obtain, and at length appropriated it to himself. He raised a very large revenue from the mines, and from other sources which the richness of the country afforded.

From Sunium to the Peloponnesus are the Myrtoan, the Cretan, and the Libyan Seas, together with the Gulfs, as far as the Sicilian Sea, which consist of the Gulfs of Ambracia, of Corinth, and of Crissa.

τῶν μὲν οὖν Ἠπειρωτῶν ἔθνη φησὶν εἶναι Θεόπομπος τετταρεσκαίδεκα, τούτων δʼ ἐνδοξότατα Χάονες καὶ Μολοττοὶ διὰ τὸ ἄρξαι ποτὲ πάσης τῆς Ἠπειρώτιδος πρότερον μὲν Χάονας, ὕστερον δὲ Μολοττούς, οἳ καὶ διὰ τὴν συγγένειαν τῶν βασιλέων ἐπὶ πλέον ηὐξήθησαν (τῶν γὰρ Αἰακιδῶν ἦσαν), καὶ διὰ τὸ παρὰ τούτοις εἶναι τὸ ἐν Δωδώνῃ μαντεῖον, παλαιόν τε καὶ ὀνομαστὸν ὄν. Χάονες μὲν οὖν καὶ Θεσπρωτοὶ καὶ μετὰ τούτους ἐφεξῆς Κασσωπαῖοι (καὶ οὗτοι δʼ εἰσὶ Θεσπρωτοὶ) τὴν ἀπὸ τῶν Κεραυνίων ὀρῶν μέχρι τοῦ Ἀμβρακικοῦ κόλπου παραλίαν νέμονται χώραν εὐδαίμονα ἔχοντες· ὁ δὲ πλοῦς ἀπὸ τῶν Χαόνων ἀρξαμένῳ πρὸς ἀνίσχοντα ἥλιον καὶ πρὸς τὸν Ἀμβρακικὸν κόλπον καὶ τὸν Κορινθιακόν, ἐν δεξιᾷ ἔχοντι τὸ Αὐσόνιον πέλαγος, ἐν ἀριστερᾷ δὲ τὴν Ἤπειρον, εἰσὶ χίλιοι καὶ τριακόσιοι στάδιοι ἀπὸ τῶν Κεραυνίων ἐπὶ τὸ στόμα τοῦ Ἀμβρακικοῦ κόλπου. ἐν τούτῳ δʼ ἐστὶ τῷ διαστήματι Πάνορμός τε λιμὴν μέγας ἐν μέσοις τοῖς Κεραυνίοις ὄρεσι, καὶ μετὰ ταῦτα Ὄγχησμος λιμὴν ἄλλος, καθʼ ὃν τὰ δυσμικὰ ἄκρα τῆς Κορκυραίας ἀντίκειται, καὶ πάλιν ἄλλος Κασσιόπη, ἀφʼ οὗ ἐπὶ Βρεντέσιον χίλιοι ἑπτακόσιοι στάδιοι· οἱ δʼ ἴσοι καὶ ἐπὶ Τάραντα ἀπὸ ἄλλου ἀκρωτηρίου νοτιωτέρου τῆς Κασσιόπης ὃ καλοῦσι Φαλακρόν. μετὰ δὲ Ὄγχησμον Ποσείδιον καὶ Βουθρωτὸν ἐπὶ τῷ στόματι τοῦ Πηλώδους καλουμένου λιμένος ἱδρυμένον ἐν τόπῳ χερρονησίζοντι, ἐποίκους ἔχον Ῥωμαίους, καὶ τὰ Σύβοτα. εἰσὶ δὲ νησῖδες τὰ Σύβοτα τῆς μὲν Ἠπείρου μικρὸν ἀπέχουσαι, κατὰ δὲ τὸ ἑῷον ἄκρον τῆς Κορκυραίας τὴν Λευκίμμαν κείμεναι. καὶ ἄλλαι δʼ ἐν τῷ παράπλῳ νησῖδες εἰσὶν οὐκ ἄξιαι μνήμης. ἔπειτα ἄκρα Χειμέριον καὶ Γλυκὺς λιμήν, εἰς ὃν ἐμβάλλει ὁ Ἀχέρων ποταμός, ῥέων ἐκ τῆς Ἀχερουσίας λίμνης καὶ δεχόμενος πλείους ποταμοὺς ὥστε καὶ γλυκαίνειν τὸν κόλπον· ῥεῖ δὲ καὶ ὁ Θύαμις πλησίον. ὑπέρκειται δὲ τούτου μὲν τοῦ κόλπου Κίχυρος, ἡ πρότερον Ἐφύρα, πόλις Θεσπρωτῶν· τοῦ δὲ κατὰ Βουθρωτὸν ἡ Φοινίκη. ἐγγὺς δὲ τῆς Κιχύρου πολίχνιον Βουχέτιον Κασσωπαίων μικρὸν ὑπὲρ τῆς θαλάττης ὄν, καὶ Ἐλάτρια καὶ Πανδοσία καὶ Βατίαι ἐν μεσογαίᾳ, καθήκει δʼ αὐτῶν ἡ χώρα μέχρι τοῦ κόλπου. μετὰ δὲ Γλυκὺν λιμένα ἐφεξῆς εἰσι δύο ἄλλοι λιμένες, ὁ μὲν ἐγγυτέρω καὶ ἐλάττων Κόμαρος ἰσθμὸν ποιῶν ἑξήκοντα σταδίων πρὸς τὸν Ἀμβρακικὸν κόλπον καὶ τὸ τοῦ Σεβαστοῦ Καίσαρος κτίσμα τὴν Νικόπολιν· ὁ δὲ ἀπωτέρω καὶ μείζων καὶ ἀμείνων πλησίον τοῦ στόματος τοῦ κόλπου, διέχων τῆς Νικοπόλεως ὅσον δώδεκα σταδίους.

Theopompus says, that there are fourteen Epirotic nations. Of these, the most celebrated are the Chaones and Molotti, because the whole of Epirus was at one time subject, first to Chaones, afterwards to Molotti. Their power was greatly strengthened by the family of their kings being descended from the Aeacidae, and because the ancient and famous oracle of Dodona was in their country. Chaones, Thesproti, and next after these Cassopaei, (who are Thesproti,) occupy the coast, a fertile tract reaching from the Ceraunian mountains to the Ambracian Gulf.

The voyage commencing from the Chaones eastward towards the Gulfs of Ambracia and Corinth, and having the Ausonian Sea on the right, and Epirus on the left, comprises 1300 stadia to the mouth of the Ambracian Gulf. In this interval is Panormus, a large port in the middle of the Ceraunian mountains. Next to this is Onchesmus, another harbour, opposite to which are the western extremities of Corcyra, and then again another port, Cassiope, (Cassope?) whence to Brundusium are 1700 stadia. It is the same distance to Tarentum from another promontory more to the south than Cassiope, which is called Phalacrum. Next after Onchesmus are Posidium, and Buthrotum, (which is situated upon the mouth of the lake Pelodes, in a spot of a peninsula form, and has a Roman colony,) and the Sybota. The Sybota are small islands at a little distance from Epirus, lying near Leucimme, the eastern promontory of Corcyra. There are also other small islands, not worthy of notice, which are met with along the coast.

Next is the promontory Chimerium, and a harbour called Glycys-Limen, [or Sweet Harbour,] where the river Acheron, which receives several other rivers, empties itself and renders fresh the water of the gulf. The Thyamus flows near it. Above this gulf is situated Cichyrus, formerly Ephyra, a city of the Thesproti, and above the gulf at Buthrotum, Phoenice. Near Cichyrus is Buchetium, a small city of the Cassopaei, situated at a little distance from the sea; Elatria, Pandosia, and Batiae are in the inland parts. Their territory extends as far as the gulf. Next after the harbour Glycys-Limen are two others, Comarus, the nearest and smallest, forming an isthmus of 60 stadia, near the Ambracian Gulf and Nicopolis, founded by Augustus Caesar; the other, the more distant and larger, and better harbour, is near the mouth of the gulf, and distant from Nicopolis about 12 stadia.

People and places in this passage

English translation by H. C. Hamilton and W. Falconer (1854). Original text: August Meineke (ed.), Strabonis Geographica, 3 vols., Leipzig: Teubner, 1877 (Greek text as digitised by Perseus).

Greek text and translation from the Perseus Digital Library, Tufts University, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Perseus Digital Library); translation public domain. Introductions, summaries and notes © GreekMythology.com.