Strabo · Geography Γεωγραφικά

Strabo, Geography 7.3.14–19: The Danube mouths, Dniester and Dnieper coast

Strabo follows the northern Black Sea coast from the desert of the Getae, where Darius and Lysimachus were in danger, to the island of Peuce and the seven mouths of the Danube. He mentions the Tower of Neoptolemus, the island of Leuce sacred to Achilles, Olbia and the Course of Achilles. He describes the Bastarnae, Roxolani and other nomads, their wagon tents, and the severe cold of the region.

Sections 7.3.14–19 · 1415 words · click a number to copy its link

μεταξὺ δὲ τῆς Ποντικῆς θαλάττης τῆς ἀπὸ Ἴστρου ἐπὶ Τύραν καὶ ἡ τῶν Γετῶν ἐρημία πρόκειται πεδιὰς πᾶσα καὶ ἄνυδρος, ἐν ᾗ Δαρεῖος ἀποληφθεὶς ὁ Ὑστάσπεω, καθʼ ὃν καιρὸν διέβη τὸν Ἴστρον ἐπὶ τοὺς Σκύθας, ἐκινδύνευσε πανστρατιᾷ δίψῃ διαλυθῆναι· συνῆκε δʼ ὀψὲ καὶ ἀνέστρεψε. Λυσίμαχος δʼ ὕστερον στρατεύσας ἐπὶ Γέτας καὶ τὸν βασιλέα Δρομιχαίτην οὐκ ἐκινδύνευσε μόνον, ἀλλὰ καὶ ἑάλω ζωγρίᾳ· πάλιν δʼ ἐσώθη τυχὼν εὐγνώμονος τοῦ βαρβάρου, καθάπερ εἶπον πρότερον.

Between [the Getae and] the Black Sea, from the Danube to the Dniester, lies the desert of the Getae. It is entirely a plain and destitute of water. It was there that Darius the son of Hystaspes, at the time he crossed the Danube, was in danger of being cut off with his whole army for want of water; this he found out before it was too late, and returned. At a subsequent period, when Lysimachus was waging war against the Getae and their king Dromichaetes, he not only incurred the risk, but he fell into the hands of the enemy; but his life was spared by the courtesy of the barbarian, as I have before related.

πρὸς δὲ ταῖς ἐκβολαῖς μεγάλη νῆσός ἐστιν ἡ Πεύκη· κατασχόντες δʼ αὐτὴν Βαστάρναι Πευκῖνοι προσηγορεύθησαν· εἰσὶ δὲ καὶ ἄλλαι νῆσοι πολὺ ἐλάττους, αἱ μὲν ἀνωτέρω ταύτης αἱ δὲ πρὸς τῇ θαλάττῃ. ἑπτάστομος γάρ ἐστι· μέγιστον δὲ τὸ ἱερὸν στόμα καλούμενον, διʼ οὗ σταδίων ἀνάπλους ἐπὶ τὴν Πεύκην ἑκατὸν εἴκοσιν, ἧς κατὰ τὸ κάτω μέρος ἐποίησε τὸ ζεῦγμα Δαρεῖος· δύναιτο δʼ ἂν ζευχθῆναι καὶ κατὰ τὸ ἄνω. τοῦτο δὲ καὶ πρῶτόν ἐστι στόμα ἐν ἀριστερᾷ εἰσπλέοντι εἰς τὸν Πόντον· τὰ δʼ ἑξῆς ἐν παράπλῳ τῷ ἐπὶ τὸν Τύραν· διέχει δʼ ἀπʼ αὐτοῦ τὸ ἕβδομον στόμα περὶ τριακοσίους σταδίους. γίνονται οὖν μεταξὺ τῶν στομάτων νησῖδες. τὰ μὲν δὴ τρία στόματα τὰ ἐφεξῆς τῷ ἱερῷ στόματί ἐστι μικρά, τὰ δὲ λοιπὰ τοῦ μὲν πολὺ ἐλάττονα τῶν δὲ μείζονα· Ἔφορος δὲ πεντάστομον εἴρηκε τὸν Ἴστρον. ἐντεῦθεν δʼ ἐπὶ Τύραν ποταμὸν πλωτὸν ἐνακόσιοι στάδιοι· ἐν δὲ τῷ μεταξὺ δύο λίμναι μεγάλαι, ἡ μὲν ἀνεῳγμένη πρὸς τὴν θάλατταν ὥστε καὶ λιμένι χρῆσθαι, ἡ δʼ ἄστομος.

Near the mouths of the Danube is the large island called Peuce. This the Bastarnae possessed, and were hence called Peucini. There are also other islands much smaller, some above this, and others nearer the sea. The Danube has seven mouths, the largest is called the Sacred Mouth, the passage by which to Peuce is 120 stadia. At the lower part of this island Darius made his bridge. It might likewise have been constructed at the upper part. This is the first mouth on the left-hand side as you sail into the Black Sea; the rest are passed while sailing along towards the Dniester; the seventh mouth is distant from this first mouth about 300 stadia. These mouths form several islands. The first three mouths next after the Sacred Mouth are but small, the remainder are much less than it, but greater than any of the three. Ephorus states that the Danube has five mouths. From hence to the Dniester, which is a navigable river, there are 900 stadia. In the district intervening there are two great lakes; one is open to the sea, and is used as a harbour, the other has no outlet.

ἐπὶ δὲ τῷ στόματι τοῦ Τύρα πύργος ἐστὶ Νεοπτολέμου καλούμενος καὶ κώμη Ἑρμώνακτος λεγομένη. ἀναπλεύσαντι δὲ ἑκατὸν τετταράκοντα σταδίους ἐφʼ ἑκάτερα πόλεις, ἡ μὲν Νικωνία ἡ δʼ ἐν ἀριστερᾷ Ὀφιοῦσσα· οἱ δὲ προσοικοῦντες τῷ ποταμῷ πόλιν φασὶν ἀνιόντι ἑκατὸν καὶ εἴκοσι σταδίους. διέχει δὲ τοῦ στόματος ἡ νῆσος ἡ Λευκὴ δίαρμα πεντακοσίων σταδίων, ἱερὰ τοῦ Ἀχιλλέως, πελαγία.

At the mouth of the Dniester there is a tower called the Tower of Neoptolemus, and a village called Hermōnax. As you sail up the river 140 stadia, there are cities on both sides; the one is Niconia, and that on the left Ophiussa. Those who dwell on the spot say that the city is but 120 stadia up the river. The island of Leuce is distant from the river’s mouth a course of 500 stadia; it is quite in the sea, and is sacred to Achilles.

εἶτα Βορυσθένης ποταμὸς πλωτὸς ἐφʼ ἑξακοσίους σταδίους καὶ πλησίον ἄλλος ποταμὸς Ὕπανις καὶ νῆσος πρὸ τοῦ στόματος τοῦ Βορυσθένους ἔχουσα λιμένα. πλεύσαντι δὲ τὸν Βορυσθένη σταδίους διακοσίους ὁμώνυμος τῷ ποταμῷ πόλις· ἡ δʼ αὐτὴ καὶ Ὀλβία καλεῖται, μέγα ἐμπόριον, κτίσμα Μιλησίων. ἡ δὲ ὑπερκειμένη πᾶσα χώρα τοῦ λεχθέντος μεταξὺ Βορυσθένους καὶ Ἴστρου πρώτη μέν ἐστιν ἡ τῶν Γετῶν ἐρημία, ἔπειτα οἱ Τυρεγέται, μεθʼ οὓς οἱ Ἰάζυγες Σαρμάται καὶ οἱ Βασίλειοι λεγόμενοι καὶ Οὖργοι, τὸ μὲν πλέον νομάδες, ὀλίγοι δὲ καὶ γεωργίας ἐπιμελούμενοι· τούτους φασὶ καὶ παρὰ τὸν Ἴστρον οἰκεῖν, ἐφʼ ἑκάτερα πολλάκις. ἐν δὲ τῇ μεσογαίᾳ Βαστάρναι μὲν τοῖς Τυρεγέταις ὅμοροι καὶ Γερμανοῖς, σχεδόν τι καὶ αὐτοὶ τοῦ Γερμανικοῦ γένους ὄντες, εἰς πλείω φῦλα διῃρημένοι. καὶ γὰρ Ἄτμονοι λέγονταί τινες καὶ Σιδόνες, οἱ δὲ τὴν Πεύκην κατασχόντες τὴν ἐν τῷ Ἴστρῳ νῆσον Πευκῖνοι, Ῥωξολανοὶ δʼ ἀρκτικώτατοι τὰ μεταξὺ τοῦ Τανάιδος καὶ Βορυσθένους νεμόμενοι πεδία. ἡ γὰρ προσάρκτιος πᾶσα ἀπὸ Γερμανίας μέχρι τῆς Κασπίας πεδιάς ἐστιν, ἣν ἴσμεν· ὑπὲρ δὲ τῶν Ῥωξολανῶν εἴ τινες οἰκοῦσιν οὐκ ἴσμεν. οἱ δὲ Ῥωξολανοὶ καὶ πρὸς τοὺς Μιθριδάτου τοῦ Εὐπάτορος στρατηγοὺς ἐπολέμουν ἔχοντες ἡγεμόνα Τάσιον· ἧκον δὲ Παλάκῳ συμμαχήσοντες τῷ Σκιλούρου, καὶ ἐδόκουν μὲν εἶναι μάχιμοι, πρὸς μέντοι συντεταγμένην φάλαγγα καὶ ὡπλισμένην καλῶς τὸ βάρβαρον φῦλον ἀσθενὲς πᾶν ἐστι καὶ τὸ γυμνητικόν. ἐκεῖνοι γοῦν περὶ πέντε μυριάδας πρὸς ἑξακισχιλίους τοὺς Διοφάντῳ, τῷ τοῦ Μιθριδάτου στρατηγῷ, συμπαραταξαμένους οὐκ ἀντέσχον, ἀλλʼ οἱ πλεῖστοι διεφθάρησαν. χρῶνται δὲ ὠμοβοΐνοις κράνεσι καὶ θώραξι, γερροφόροι, ἀμυντήρια δʼ ἔχοντες καὶ λόγχας καὶ τόξον καὶ ξίφος· τοιοῦτοι δὲ καὶ τῶν ἄλλων οἱ πλείους. τῶν δὲ νομάδων αἱ σκηναὶ πιλωταὶ πεπήγασιν ἐπὶ ταῖς ἁμάξαις, ἐν αἷς διαιτῶνται· περὶ δὲ τὰς σκηνὰς τὰ βοσκήματα, ἀφʼ ὧν τρέφονται καὶ γάλακτι καὶ τυρῷ καὶ κρέασιν· ἀκολουθοῦσι δὲ ταῖς νομαῖς μεταλαμβάνοντες τόπους ἀεὶ τοὺς ἔχοντας πόαν, χειμῶνος μὲν ἐν τοῖς ἕλεσι τοῖς περὶ τὴν Μαιῶτιν, θέρους δὲ καὶ ἐν τοῖς πεδίοις.

Next is the Dnieper, a river navigable to the distance of 600 stadia, and near to it another river, the Bog, and an island lying before the mouth of the Dnieper, which possesses a haven. After sailing up the Borysthenes 200 stadia, you come to the city of like name with the river, which is likewise called Olbia; it is a great emporium and a foundation of the Milesians. Of the region lying inland from the coast we have described between the Dnieper and the Danube, the first portion is the Desert of the Getae, then comes the Tyregetae, after them the Jazyges Sarmatae, and the Basilii, who are also called Urgi. Most of these people are nomades. However, a few of them pay attention to agriculture. These are said to inhabit the banks of the Danube, frequently even on both sides of the river. In the inland the Bastarnae dwell, and confine with the Tyregetae and the Germans; indeed, they may almost be said to be of the German stock. They are divided into many tribes, as some are called Atmoni, some Sidones, those who inhabit the island Peuce in the Danube, Peucini, and the most northern, Roxolani. These latter depasture the plains lying between the Don and the Dnieper. Indeed the whole of the northern regions with which we are acquainted, from Germany to the Caspian, is an extended plain. Whether any dwell still farther than the Roxolani is unknown to us. However, the Roxolani fought against the generals of Mithridates Eupator. Their leader was Tasius. They came as allies of Palacus, the son of Scilurus, and were considered good soldiers, but against the serried and wellarmed phalanx every barbarous and light-armed tribe is ineffective. Thus they, although numbering fifty thousand men, could not withstand the six thousand arrayed by Diophantus, the general of Mithridates, but were almost all cut to pieces. They make use of helmets and breastplates made of untanned ox-hide. They bear wicker shields; and as weapons, lances, the bow, and the sword, such as most of the other barbarians do. The woollen tents of the nomades are fixed upon their chariots, in which they pass their lives. Their herds are scattered round their tents, and they live on the milk, the cheese, and the meat which they supply. They shift their quarters ever in search of pasture, changing the places they have exhausted for others full of grass. In the winter they encamp in the marshes near the Palus Maeotis, and in the summer on the plains.

ἅπασα δʼ ἡ χώρα δυσχείμερός ἐστι μέχρι τῶν ἐπὶ θαλάττῃ τόπων τῶν μεταξὺ Βορυσθένους καὶ τοῦ στόματος τῆς Μαιώτιδος· αὐτῶν δὲ τῶν ἐπὶ θαλάττῃ τὰ ἀρκτικώτατα τό τε στόμα τῆς Μαιώτιδος καὶ ἔτι μᾶλλον τὸ τοῦ Βορυσθένους ὁ μυχὸς τοῦ Ταμυράκου κόλπου, καὶ Καρκινίτου, καθʼ ὃν ὁ ἰσθμὸς τῆς μεγάλης χερρονήσου. δηλοῖ δὲ τὰ ψύχη, καίπερ ἐν πεδίοις οἰκούντων· ὄνους τε γὰρ οὐ τρέφουσι (δύσριγον γὰρ τὸ ζῷον), οἵ τε βόες οἱ μὲν ἄκερῳ γεννῶνται, τῶν δʼ ἀπορρινῶσι τὰ κέρατα (καὶ γὰρ τοῦτο δύσριγον τὸ μέρος), οἵ τε ἵπποι μικροί, τὰ δὲ πρόβατα μεγάλα· ῥήττονται δὲ χαλκαῖ ὑδρίαι, τὰ δʼ ἐνόντα συμπήττεται. τῶν δὲ πάγων ἡ σφοδρότης μάλιστα ἐκ τῶν συμβαινόντων περὶ τὸ στόμα τῆς Μαιώτιδος δῆλός ἐστιν. ἁμαξεύεται γὰρ ὁ διάπλους ὁ εἰς Φαναγόρειαν ἐκ τοῦ Παντικαπαίου, ὥστε καὶ πλοῦν εἶναι καὶ ὁδόν· Νεοπτόλεμον δέ φασι τὸν τοῦ Μιθριδάτου στρατηγὸν ἐν τῷ αὐτῷ πόρῳ θέρους μὲν ναυμαχίᾳ περιγενέσθαι τῶν βαρβάρων, χειμῶνος δʼ ἱππομαχίᾳ. ὀρυκτοί τέ εἰσιν ἰχθύες οἱ ἀποληφθέντες ἐν τῷ κρυστάλλῳ τῇ προσαγορευομένῃ γαγγάμῃ, καὶ μάλιστα οἱ ἀντακαῖοι, δελφῖσι πάρισοι τὸ μέγεθος. φασὶ δὲ καὶ τὴν ἄμπελον ἐν τῷ Βοσπόρῳ κατορύττεσθαι χειμῶνος, ἐπαμώντων πολὺ τῆς γῆς. λέγεται δὲ καὶ τὰ καύματα σφοδρὰ γίνεσθαι, τάχα μὲν τῶν σωμάτων ἀηθιζομένων, τάχα δὲ τῶν πεδίων ἀνηνεμούντων τότε, ἢ καὶ τοῦ πάχους τοῦ ἀέρος ἐκθερμαινομένου πλέον, καθάπερ ἐν τοῖς νέφεσιν οἱ παρήλιοι ποιοῦσιν. Ἀτέας δὲ δοκεῖ τῶν πλείστων ἄρξαι τῶν ταύτῃ βαρβάρων ὁ πρὸς Φίλιππον πολεμήσας τὸν Ἀμύντου.

The whole of this country, which reaches to the seacoast extending from the Dnieper to the Palus Maeotis, is subject to severe winters; so also are the most northern of the districts bordering on the sea, as the mouth of the Palus Maeotis, and farther that of the Dnieper and the head of the Gulf of Tamyraca, or Carcinites, which washes the isthmus of the Magna Chersonesus. The intense cold of the districts inhabited, notwithstanding their being plains, is manifest, for they rear no asses, as that animal is too susceptible of cold; some of their oxen are without horns by nature, of the others they file off the horns, as a part most susceptible of injury from cold. Their horses are diminutive and their sheep large. Their brazen vessels are split with the frosts, and their contents frozen into a solid mass. However, the rigour of the frosts may be best illustrated by the phenomena which are common in the neighbourhood of the embouchure of the Palus Maeotis; for the passage from Panticapaeum, across to Phanagoria, is at times performed in waggons, thus being both a sea passage and an overland route [as the season may determine]. There are also fish which are taken in the ice by means of a round net called a gangama, and especially a kind of sturgeon called antacaeus, nearly the size of a dolphin. It is related that Neoptolemus, the general of Mithridates, defeated the barbarians during summer-time in a naval engagement in this very strait, and during the winter in a cavalry action. They say that about the Bosphorus the vine is hidden away in the earth in winter, great mounds of mould being piled over it [to preserve it from the frost]. They also report that the heats are excessive, [this may be accounted for in several ways,] perhaps men’s bodies not being accustomed to them, feel them the more; perhaps the plains are at that time unrefreshed by winds; or perhaps the thickness of the air is heated to a great degree, similar to the way in which the misty air is affected in times when a parhelion is observed.

It appears that Ateas, who carried on war against Philip, the son of Amyntas, had the rule over most of the barbarians of these parts.

μετὰ δὲ τὴν πρὸ τοῦ Βορυσθένους νῆσον ἑξῆς πρὸς ἀνίσχοντα ἥλιον ὁ πλοῦς ἐπὶ ἄκραν τὴν τοῦ Ἀχιλλείου δρόμου, ψιλὸν μὲν χωρίον καλούμενον δʼ ἄλσος, ἱερὸν Ἀχιλλέως· εἶθʼ ὁ Ἀχίλλειος δρόμος, ἁλιτενὴς χερρόνησος· ἔστι γὰρ ταινία τις ὅσον χιλίων σταδίων μῆκος ἐπὶ τὴν ἕω, πλάτος δὲ τὸ μέγιστον δυεῖν σταδίων, ἐλάχιστον τεττάρων πλέθρων, διέχουσα τῆς ἑκατέρωθεν τοῦ αὐχένος ἠπείρου σταδίους ἑξήκοντα, ἀμμώδης, ὕδωρ ἔχουσα ὀρυκτόν· κατὰ μέσην δʼ ὁ τοῦ ἰσθμοῦ αὐχὴν ὅσον τετταράκοντα σταδίων· τελευτᾷ δὲ πρὸς ἄκραν ἣν Ταμυράκην καλοῦσιν, ἔχουσαν ὕφορμον βλέποντα πρὸς τὴν ἤπειρον· μεθʼ ἣν ὁ Καρκινίτης κόλπος εὐμεγέθης, ἀνέχων πρὸς τὰς ἄρκτους ὅσον ἐπὶ σταδίους χιλίους, οἱ δὲ καὶ τριπλασίους φασὶ μέχρι τοῦ μυχοῦ […] καλοῦνται δὲ Τάφριοι. τὸν δὲ κόλπον καὶ Ταμυράκην καλοῦσιν ὁμωνύμως τῇ ἄκρᾳ.

After the island situated opposite the mouth of the Dnieper, in sailing towards the east, we arrive at the cape of the Course of Achilles. The district is quite bare, notwithstanding that it is termed a wood. It is sacred to Achilles. Then we arrive at the Course of Achilles, a low peninsula; for it is a certain tongue of land about a thousand stadia in length, running out towards the east, and its width is but two stadia in the broadest part, and but four plethra in the narrowest. It is distant from the main-land, which runs out on both sides of the neck, about 60 stadia. It is sandy, but water is obtainable by digging. About the midst of the Course of Achilles is the neck of the isthmus [joining it to the main-land]. It is about 40 stadia in breadth, and terminates in a headland which they call Tamyraca. This possesses an anchorage opposite the main-land. Next comes the Gulf Carcinites, which is of considerable extent, reaching towards the north about 1000 stadia. Some affirm that it is three times that distance to the head of the gulf . . . . . . . . are called Taphrii. They likewise call the Gulf Carcinites the Gulf Tamyraca, the same as the headland.

People and places in this passage

English translation by H. C. Hamilton and W. Falconer (1854). Original text: August Meineke (ed.), Strabonis Geographica, 3 vols., Leipzig: Teubner, 1877 (Greek text as digitised by Perseus).

Greek text and translation from the Perseus Digital Library, Tufts University, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Perseus Digital Library); translation public domain. Introductions, summaries and notes © GreekMythology.com.