Strabo · Geography Γεωγραφικά

Strabo, Geography 6.3.4–6: Tarentum's fortunes, Iapygia and Brentesium

Strabo recounts the rise of democratic Tarentum, its Pythagorean ruler Archytas, its luxury and its foreign generals such as Alexander of Epirus and Pyrrhus. He describes the Iapygian coast, the Salentini said to be Cretan, and the well at Leuca where the blood of fleeing giants beaten by Heracles (Hercules) was said to flow. He then treats Brentesium, its antler-shaped harbour, and Cretan colonists said to have come with Theseus.

Sections 6.3.4–6 · 1145 words · click a number to copy its link

ἴσχυσαν δέ ποτε οἱ Ταραντῖνοι καθʼ ὑπερβολὴν πολιτευόμενοι δημοκρατικῶς· καὶ γὰρ ναυτικὸν ἐκέκτηντο μέγιστον τῶν ταύτῃ καὶ πεζοὺς ἔστελλον τρισμυρίους, ἱππέας δὲ τρισχιλίους, ἱππάρχους δὲ χιλίους. ἀπεδέξαντο δὲ καὶ τὴν Πυθαγόρειον φιλοσοφίαν, διαφερόντως δʼ Ἀρχύτας, ὃς καὶ προέστη τῆς πόλεως πολὺν χρόνον. ἐξίσχυσε δʼ ἡ ὕστερον τρυφὴ διὰ τὴν εὐδαιμονίαν, ὥστε τὰς πανδήμους ἑορτὰς πλείους ἄγεσθαι κατʼ ἔτος παρʼ αὐτοῖς ἢ τὰς ἡμέρας· ἐκ δὲ τούτου καὶ χεῖρον ἐπολιτεύοντο. ἓν δὲ τῶν φαύλων πολιτευμάτων τεκμήριόν ἐστι τὸ ξενικοῖς στρατηγοῖς χρῆσθαι· καὶ γὰρ τὸν Μολοττὸν Ἀλέξανδρον μετεπέμψαντο ἐπὶ Μεσσαπίους καὶ Λευκανούς, καὶ ἔτι πρότερον Ἀρχίδαμον τὸν Ἀγησιλάου καὶ ὕστερον Κλεώνυμον καὶ Ἀγαθοκλέα, εἶτα Πύρρον, ἡνίκα συνέστησαν πρὸς Ῥωμαίους. οὐδʼ ἐκείνοις δʼ εὐπειθεῖν ἠδύναντο οὓς ἐπεκαλοῦντο, ἀλλʼ εἰς ἔχθραν αὐτοὺς καθίστασαν. ὁ γοῦν Ἀλέξανδρος τὴν κοινὴν Ἑλλήνων τῶν ταύτῃ πανήγυριν, ἣν ἔθος ἦν ἐν Ἡρακλείᾳ συντελεῖν τῆς Ταραντίνης, μετάγειν ἐπειρᾶτο εἰς τὴν Θουρίαν κατὰ ἔχθος, ἐκέλευέ τε κατὰ τὸν Ἀκάλανδρον ποταμὸν τειχίζειν τόπον, ὅπου ἔσοιντο αἱ σύνοδοι· καὶ δὴ καὶ ἡ συμβᾶσα αὐτῷ κακοπραγία διὰ τὴν ἐκείνων ἀγνωμοσύνην ἀπαντῆσαι λέγεται. πρὸς δὲ Μεσσαπίους ἐπολέμησαν περὶ Ἡρακλείας, ἔχοντες συνεργοὺς τόν τε τῶν Δαυνίων καὶ τὸν τῶν Πευκετίων βασιλέα. περί τε τὰ Ἀννίβεια καὶ τὴν ἐλευθερίαν ἀφῃρέθησαν, ὕστερον δʼ ἀποικίαν Ῥωμαίων δεξάμενοι καθʼ ἡσυχίαν ζῶσι καὶ βέλτιον ἢ πρότερον.

At one time, when the government of the Tarentines had assumed a democratic form, they rose to great importance; for they possessed the greatest fleet of any state in those parts, and could bring into the field an army of 30,000 foot and 3000 horse, exclusive of a select body of 1000 cavalry called Hipparchi. They likewise encouraged the Pythagorean philosophy, and Archytas, who for a long time presided over the government of their state, gave it his special support. But at a later period their luxury, which was produced by their prosperity, increased to that degree that their general holidays or festivals exceeded in number the days of the year; and hence arose an inefficient government, and as one proof of their unstatesmanlike acts we may adduce their employment of foreign generals; for they sent for Alexander, king of the Molossi, to come and assist them against the Messapii and Leucani. They had before that employed Archidamus, the son of Agesilaus; afterwards they called in Cleonymus and Agathocles, and later, when they rose against the Romans, Pyrrhus. They were not able even to retain the respect of those whom they had invited, but rather merited their disgust. Alexander [of Epirus] was so displeased with them that lie endeavoured to remove the seat of the general council of the Greek states in Italy, which was accustomed to assemble at Heraclea, a city of the Tarentines, to a city of the Thurii; and he commanded that some place on the river Acalandrus, commodious for their meetings, should be properly fortified for their reception.—And indeed they say that the misfortune of that prince was chiefly due to a want of good feeling on their part. They were deprived of their liberty during the wars of Hannibal, but have since received a Roman colony, and now live in peace and are in a more prosperous state than ever. They also engaged in war with the Messapii concerning Heraclea, when they counted the kings of the Daunii and of the Peucetii as allies.

ἡ δʼ ἑξῆς τῶν Ἰαπύγων χώρα παραδόξως ἐστὶν ἀστεία· ἐπιπολῆς γὰρ φαινομένη τραχεῖα εὑρίσκεται βαθύγειος σχιζομένη, ἀνυδροτέρα δʼ οὖσα εὔβοτος οὐδὲν ἧττον καὶ εὔδενδρος ὁρᾶται. εὐάνδρησε δέ ποτε καὶ τοῦτο σφόδρα τὸ χωρίον σύμπαν καὶ ἔσχε πόλεις τρισκαίδεκα, ἀλλὰ νῦν πλὴν Τάραντος καὶ Βρεντεσίου τἆλλα πολισμάτιά ἐστιν· οὕτως ἐκπεπόνηνται. τοὺς δὲ Σαλεντίνους Κρητῶν ἀποίκους φασίν· ἐνταῦθα δʼ ἐστὶ καὶ τὸ τῆς Ἀθηνᾶς ἱερὸν πλούσιόν ποτε ὑπάρξαν, καὶ ὁ σκόπελος, ὃν καλοῦσιν ἄκραν Ἰαπυγίαν, πολὺς ἐκκείμενος εἰς τὸ πέλαγος καὶ τὰς χειμερινὰς ἀνατολάς, ἐπιστρέφων δέ πως ἐπὶ τὸ Λακίνιον ἀνταῖρον ἀπὸ τῆς ἑσπέρας αὐτῷ καὶ κλεῖον τὸ στόμα τοῦ Ταραντίνου κόλπου πρὸς αὐτόν. καὶ τὰ Κεραύνια δʼ ὁμοίως ὄρη κλείει πρὸς αὐτὸν τὸ στόμα τοῦ Ἰονίου κόλπου, καὶ ἔστι τὸ δίαρμα ὅσον ἑπτακοσίων σταδίων ἀπʼ αὐτοῦ πρός τε τὰ Κεραύνια καὶ πρὸς τὸ Λακίνιον. περίπλους δʼ ἐκ Τάραντός ἐστιν εἰς Βρεντέσιον μέχρι μὲν Βάριδος πολίχνης ἑξακόσιοι στάδιοι· καλοῦσι δὲ Βᾶριν οἱ νῦν Ὀυερητόν, κεῖται δʼ ἐπὶ τοῖς ἄκροις τῆς Σαλεντίνης, καὶ τὸ πολὺ πεζῇ μᾶλλον ἢ κατὰ πλοῦν εἰς αὐτὴν ἐκ τοῦ Τάραντος εὐμαρὴς ἡ ἄφιξίς ἐστιν. ἔνθεν εἰς τὰ Λευκὰ στάδιοι ὀγδοήκοντα, πολίχνιον καὶ τοῦτο, ἐν ᾧ δείκνυται πηγὴ δυσώδους ὕδατος· μυθεύουσι δʼ ὅτι τοὺς περιλειφθέντας τῶν γιγάντων ἐν τῇ κατὰ Καμπανίαν Φλέγρᾳ Λευτερνίους καλουμένους Ἡρακλῆς ἐξελάσειε, καταφυγόντες δεῦρο ὑπὸ γῆς περισταλεῖεν, ἐκ δὲ ἰχώρων τοιοῦτον ἴσχοι ῥεῦμα ἡ πηγή· διὰ τοῦτο δὲ καὶ τὴν παραλίαν ταύτην Λευτερνίαν προσαγορεύουσιν. ἐκ δὲ τῶν Λευκῶν εἰς Ὑδροῦντα πολίχνην ἑκατὸν πεντήκοντα· ἐντεῦθεν δʼ εἰς Βρεντέσιον τετρακόσιοι· οἱ δʼ ἴσοι καὶ εἰς Σάσωνα τὴν νῆσον, ἥτις μέση πως ἵδρυται τοῦ διάρματος τοῦ ἐκ τῆς Ἠπείρου πρὸς τὸ Βρεντέσιον· διόπερ οἱ μὴ δυνάμενοι κρατεῖν τῆς εὐθυπλοίας καταίρουσιν ἐν ἀριστερᾷ ἐκ τοῦ Σάσωνος πρὸς τὸν Ὑδροῦντα, ἐντεῦθεν δὲ τηρήσαντες φορὸν πνεῦμα προσέχουσι τοῖς μὲν Βρεντεσίνων λιμέσιν, ἐκβάντες δὲ πεζεύουσι συντομώτερον ἐπὶ Ῥοδιῶν πόλεως Ἑλληνίδος, ἐξ ἧς ἦν ὁ ποιητὴς Ἔννιος. ἔοικεν οὖν χερρονήσῳ τὸ περιπλεόμενον χωρίον ἐκ Τάραντος εἰς Βρεντέσιον· ἡ δʼ ἐκ Βρεντεσίου πεζευομένη ὁδὸς εἰς τὸν Τάραντα, εὐζώνῳ μιᾶς οὖσα ἡμέρας, τὸν ἰσθμὸν ποιεῖ τῆς εἰρημένης χερρονήσου, ἣν Μεσσαπίαν τε καὶ Ἰαπυγίαν καὶ Καλαβρίαν καὶ Σαλεντίνην κοινῶς οἱ πολλοὶ προσαγορεύουσι· τινὲς δὲ διαιροῦσιν, ὡς ἐλέγομεν πρότερον.

The remainder of the country of the Iapygii is very fair, notwithstanding unfavourable appearances; for although, for the most part, it appears rugged, yet when it is broken up the soil is found to be deep; and although it lacks water, yet it appears well-suited for pasture, and is furnished with trees. At one time it was thickly inhabited throughout its whole extent, and possessed thirteen cities, but now it is so depopulated that, with the exception of Tarentum and Brentesium, they only deserve the name of hamlets. They say that the Salentini are a colony of Cretans. Here is the temple of Minerva, which formerly was rich, and the rock called Acra Iapygia, which juts out far into the sea towards the rising of the sun in winter, and turning, as it were, towards Cape Lacinium, which lies opposite to it on the west, it closes the entrance of the Gulf of Tarentum, as on the other side, the Ceraunian Mountains, together with the said Cape, close the entrance of the Ionian Gulf, the run across is about 700 stadia from that, both to the Ceraunian Mountains and to Cape Lacinium. In coasting along the shore from Tarentum to Brentesium there are 600 stadia as far as the little city of Baris, which is at the present time called Veretum, and is situated on the extremities of the Salentine territory; the approach to it from Tarentum is much easier on foot than by sea. Thence to Leuca are 80 stadia; this too is but a small village, in which there is shown a well of fetid water, and the legend runs, that when Hercules drove out the last of the giants from Phlegra in Campania, who were called Leuternians, some fled and were buried here, and that from their blood a spring issues to supply the well; on this account likewise the coast is called the Leuternian coast. From Leuca to Hydrus, a small town, 150 stadia. From thence to Brentesium 400, and the like distance also [from Hydrus] to the island Saso, which is situated almost in the midst of the course from Epirus to Brentesium; and therefore when vessels are unable to obtain a direct passage they run to the left from Saso to Hydrus, and thence watching for a favourable wind they steer towards the haven of Brentesium, or the passengers disembarking proceed on foot by a shorter way through Rudiae, a Grecian city, where the poet Ennius was born. The district which we have followed by sea from Tarentum to Brentesium is like a peninsula. The road by land from Brentesium to Tarentum is but a day’s journey for a light person on foot, it constitutes the isthmus of the said peninsula, which people in general call Messapia, lapygia, Calabria, or Salentinum, without being at all particular; but some, as we have said before, do make a distinction. Thus have we described the towns on the sea-coast.

τὰ μὲν οὖν ἐν τῷ παράπλῳ πολίχνια εἴρηται. ἐν δὲ τῇ μεσογαίᾳ Ῥοδίαι τέ εἰσι καὶ Λουπίαι καὶ μικρὸν ὑπὲρ τῆς θαλάττης Ἀλητία· ἐπὶ δὲ τῷ ἰσθμῷ μέσῳ Οὐρία, ἐν ᾗ βασίλειον ἔτι δείκνυται τῶν δυναστῶν τινος. εἰρηκότος δʼ Ἡροδότου Ὑρίαν εἶναι ἐν τῇ Ἰαπυγίᾳ κτίσμα Κρητῶν τῶν πλανηθέντων ἐκ τοῦ Μίνω στόλου τοῦ εἰς Σικελίαν, ἤτοι ταύτην δεῖ δέχεσθαι ἢ τὸ Ὀυερητόν. Βρεντέσιον δʼ ἐποικῆσαι μὲν λέγονται Κρῆτες οἱ μετὰ Θησέως ἐπελθόντες ἐκ Κνωσσοῦ, εἴθʼ οἱ ἐκ τῆς Σικελίας ἀπηρκότες μετὰ τοῦ Ἰάπυγος (λέγεται γὰρ ἀμφοτέρως)· οὐ συμμεῖναι δέ φασιν αὐτούς, ἀλλʼ ἀπελθεῖν εἰς τὴν Βοττιαίαν. ὕστερον δὲ ἡ πόλις βασιλευομένη πολλὴν ἀπέβαλε τῆς χώρας ὑπὸ τῶν μετὰ Φαλάνθου Λακεδαιμονίων, ὅμως δʼ ἐκπεσόντα αὐτὸν ἐκ τοῦ Τάραντος ἐδέξαντο οἱ Βρεντεσῖνοι, καὶ τελευτήσαντα ἠξίωσαν λαμπρᾶς ταφῆς. χώραν δʼ ἔχουσι βελτίω τῆς Ταραντίνων· λεπτόγεως γὰρ ἐκείνη, χρηστόκαρπος δέ, μέλι δὲ καὶ ἔρια τῶν σφόδρα ἐπαινουμένων ἐστί. καὶ εὐλίμενον δὲ μᾶλλον τὸ Βρεντέσιον· ἑνὶ γὰρ στόματι πολλοὶ κλείονται λιμένες ἄκλυστοι, κόλπων ἀπολαμβανομένων ἐντός, ὥστʼ ἐοικέναι κέρασιν ἐλάφου τὸ σχῆμα, ἀφʼ οὗ καὶ τοὔνομα· σὺν γὰρ τῇ πόλει κεφαλῇ μάλιστα ἐλάφου προσέοικεν ὁ τόπος, τῇ δὲ Μεσσαπίᾳ γλώττῃ βρέντιον ἡ κεφαλὴ τοῦ ἐλάφου καλεῖται. ὁ δὲ Ταραντῖνος οὐ παντελῶς ἐστιν ἄκλυστος διὰ τὸ ἀναπεπτάσθαι, καί τινα καὶ προσβραχῆ ἔχει τὰ περὶ τὸν μυχόν.

In the inland are Rudiae and Lupiae, and at a short distance from the sea Aletia; about the middle of the isthmus is Uria, in which is still shown the palace of a certain famous nobleman. As Hyria is described by Herodotus as situated in Iapygia, and as founded by the Cretans who strayed from the fleet of Minos while sailing to Sicily; we must suppose that he meant either this place [Uria] or Veretum. It is said that a colony of Cretans settled in Brentesium, but the tradition varies; some say they were those who came with Theseus from Cnossus; others, that they were some out of Sicily who had come with Iapyx; they agree however in saying that they did not abide there, but went thence to Bottiaea. At a later period, when the state was under the government of a monarch, it lost a large portion of its territories, which was taken by the Lacedaemonians who came over under Phalanthus; notwithstanding this the Brundusians received him when he was expelled from Tarentum, and honoured him with a splendid tomb at his death. They possess a district of superior fertility to that of the Tarentines; for its soil is light, still it is fruitful, and its honey and wools are amongst the most esteemed; further, the harbour of Brentesium is superior to that of Tarentum, for many havens are protected by the single entrance, and rendered perfectly smooth, many bays [or reaches] being formed within it, so that it resembles in fashion the antlers of a stag, whence its name, for the place, together with the city, is exceedingly like the head of a stag, and in the Messapian language the stag’s head is called Brentesium; while the port of Tarentum is not entirely safe, both on account of its lying very open, and of certain shallows near its head.

People and places in this passage

English translation by H. C. Hamilton and W. Falconer (1854). Original text: August Meineke (ed.), Strabonis Geographica, 3 vols., Leipzig: Teubner, 1877 (Greek text as digitised by Perseus).

Greek text and translation from the Perseus Digital Library, Tufts University, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Perseus Digital Library); translation public domain. Introductions, summaries and notes © GreekMythology.com.