Strabo · Geography Γεωγραφικά

Strabo, Geography 7.5.8–12: Epidamnus, Apollonia and the Adriatic

Strabo describes the coast from Lissus and Epidamnus to Apollonia and the Ceraunian mountains, including the burning rock called the Nymphaeum and its asphaltus. He explains how the names Ionian and Adriatic were used and rejects tales of Theopompus, such as an underground passage between the seas. He then covers Illyrian harbours, the quarrel of the Autariatae and Ardiaei over salt, and the Scordisci, Triballi and Bessi.

Sections 7.5.8–12 · 1147 words · click a number to copy its link

μετὰ δὲ τὸν Ῥιζονικὸν κόλπον Λίσσος ἐστὶ πόλις καὶ Ἀκρόλισσος καὶ Ἐπίδαμνος Κερκυραίων κτίσμα, ἡ νῦν Δυρράχιον ὁμωνύμως τῇ χερρονήσῳ λεγομένη ἐφʼ ἧς ἵδρυται. εἶθʼ ὁ Ἄψος ποταμὸς καὶ ὁ Ἄωος, ἐφʼ ᾧ Ἀπολλωνία πόλις εὐνομωτάτη, κτίσμα Κορινθίων καὶ Κερκυραίων, τοῦ ποταμοῦ μὲν ἀπέχουσα σταδίους δέκα τῆς θαλάττης δὲ ἑξήκοντα. τὸν δʼ Ἄωον Αἴαντα καλεῖ Ἑκαταῖος καί φησιν ἀπὸ τοῦ αὐτοῦ τόπου τοῦ περὶ Λάκμον, μᾶλλον δὲ τοῦ αὐτοῦ μυχοῦ, τόν τε Ἴναχον ῥεῖν εἰς Ἄργος πρὸς νότον καὶ τὸν Αἴαντα πρὸς ἑσπέραν καὶ πρὸς τὸν Ἀδρίαν. ἐν δὲ τῇ χώρᾳ τῶν Ἀπολλωνιατῶν καλεῖταί τι νυμφαῖον· πέτρα δʼ ἐστὶ πῦρ ἀναδιδοῦσα, ὑπʼ αὐτῇ δὲ κρῆναι ῥέουσι χλιαροῦ καὶ ἀσφάλτου, καιομένης, ὡς εἰκός, τῆς βώλου τῆς ἀσφαλτίτιδος· μέταλλον δʼ αὐτῆς ἔστι πλησίον ἐπὶ λόφου· τὸ δὲ τμηθὲν ἐκπληροῦται πάλιν τῷ χρόνῳ, τῆς ἐγχωννυμένης εἰς τὰ ὀρύγματα γῆς μεταβαλλούσης εἰς ἄσφαλτον, ὥς φησι Ποσειδώνιος. λέγει δʼ ἐκεῖνος καὶ τὴν ἀμπελῖτιν γῆν ἀσφαλτώδη τὴν ἐν Σελευκείᾳ τῇ Πιερίᾳ μεταλλευομένην ἄκος τῆς φθειριώσης ἀμπέλου· χρισθεῖσαν γὰρ μετʼ ἐλαίου φθείρειν τὸ θηρίον πρὶν ἐπὶ τοὺς βλαστοὺς τῆς ῥίζης ἀναβῆναι· τοιαύτην δʼ εὑρεθῆναι καὶ ἐν Ῥόδῳ πρυτανεύοντος αὐτοῦ, πλείονος δʼ ἐλαίου δεῖσθαι. μετὰ δʼ Ἀπολλωνίαν Βυλλιακὴ καὶ Ὠρικὸν καὶ τὸ ἐπίνειον αὐτοῦ ὁ Πάνορμος καὶ τὰ Κεραύνια ὄρη, ἡ ἀρχὴ τοῦ στόματος τοῦ Ἰονίου κόλπου καὶ τοῦ Ἀδρίου.

After the bay of Rhizon is Lissus, a city, Acrolissus, and Epidamnus, the present Dyrrhachium, founded by Corcyraeans, and bearing the name of the peninsula on which it is situated. Then follow the rivers Apsus and the Aous, on the banks of which is situated Apollonia, a city governed by excellent laws. It was founded by Corinthians and Corcyraeans, and is distant from the river 10, and from the sea 60, stadia. Hecataeus calls the Aous, Aias, and says that from the same place, or rather from the same sources about Lacmus, the Inachus flows southward, to Argos, and the Aias westward, into the Adriatic.

In the territory of the Apolloniatae there is what is called a Nymphaeum. It is a rock which emits fire. Below it are springs flowing with hot water and asphaltus. The earth containing the asphaltus is probably in a state of combustion. The asphaltus is dug out of a neighbouring hill; the parts excavated are replaced by fresh earth, which after a time are converted into asphaltus. This account is given by Posidonius, who says also, that the ampelitis, an asphaltic earth found in the Pierian Seleucia, is a remedy for the lice which infest the vine. If the vine is smeared with this earth mixed with oil, the insects are killed before they ascend from the root to the branches. This earth, but it required for use a larger quantity of oil, he says was found at Rhodes also, while he held there the office of Prytanes.

Next to Apollonia is Bylliace (Bullis) and Oricum, with its naval arsenal, Panormus, and the Ceraunian mountains, which form the commencement of the entrance of the Ionian and Adriatic Gulfs.

τὸ μὲν οὖν στόμα κοινὸν ἀμφοῖν ἐστι, διαφέρει δὲ ὁ Ἰόνιος διότι τοῦ πρώτου μέρους τῆς θαλάττης ταύτης ὄνομα τοῦτʼ ἐστίν, ὁ δʼ Ἀδρίας τῆς ἐντὸς μέχρι τοῦ μυχοῦ, νυνὶ δὲ καὶ τῆς συμπάσης. φησὶ δʼ ὁ Θεόπομπος τῶν ὀνομάτων τὸ μὲν ἥκειν ἀπὸ ἀνδρὸς ἡγησαμένου τῶν τόπων ἐξ Ἴσσης τὸ γένος, τὸν Ἀδρίαν δὲ ποταμοῦ ἐπώνυμον γεγονέναι. στάδιοι δʼ ἀπὸ τῶν Λιβυρνῶν ἐπὶ τὰ Κεραύνια μικρῷ πλείους ἢ δισχίλιοι. Θεόπομπος δὲ τὸν πάντα ἀπὸ τοῦ μυχοῦ πλοῦν ἡμερῶν ἓξ εἴρηκε, πεζῇ δὲ τὸ μῆκος τῆς Ἰλλυρίδος καὶ τριάκοντα· πλεονάζειν δέ μοι δοκεῖ. καὶ ἄλλα δʼ οὐ πιστὰ λέγει, τό τε συντετρῆσθαι τὰ πελάγη […] ἀπὸ τοῦ εὑρίσκεσθαι κέραμόν τε Χῖον καὶ Θάσιον ἐν τῷ Νάρωνι, καὶ τὸ ἄμφω κατοπτεύεσθαι τὰ πελάγη ἀπό τινος ὄρους, καὶ τῶν νήσων τῶν Λιβυρνίδων τινὰ τιθείς, ὥστε κύκλον ἔχειν σταδίων καὶ πεντακοσίων, καὶ τὸ τὸν Ἴστρον ἑνὶ τῶν στομάτων εἰς τὸν Ἀδρίαν ἐμβάλλειν. τοιαῦτα δὲ καὶ τοῦ Ἐρατοσθένους ἔνια παρακούσματά ἐστι λαοδογματικά, καθάπερ Πολύβιός φησι καὶ περὶ αὐτοῦ καὶ τῶν ἄλλων λέγων συγγραφέων.

The mouth is common to both; but this difference is to be observed, that the name Ionian is applied to the first part of the gulf only, and Adriatic to the interior sea up to the farthest end, but the name Adriatic is now applied to the whole sea. According to Theopompus, the name Ionian was derived from a chief (Ionius) of that country, a native of Issa; and the name Adriatic from a river, Adrias.

From the Liburni to the Ceraunian mountains is a distance of a little more than 2000 stadia. But Theopompus says, that it is six days’ sail from the farthest recess of the bay, but a journey of thirty days by land along the length of Ilyria. This appears to me an exaggeration, but he makes many incredible statements. Among other instances, he pretends that there is a subterraneous passage between the Adriatic and the Aegaean Seas, grounding his opinion on the discovery of Chian and Thasian pottery in the river Naron. The two seas, he says, may be seen from some pretended mountain. He describes the Liburnian islands as occupying a position so extensive as to form a circle of 500 stadia. According to him, the Danube discharges itself by one of its mouths into the Adriatic. Similar mistakes are to be found in Eratosthenes, which Polybius, when speaking of him and other writers, describes as having their origin in vulgar error.

τὸν μὲν οὖν παράπλουν ἅπαντα τὸν Ἰλλυρικὸν σφόδρα εὐλίμενον εἶναι συμβαίνει καὶ ἐξ αὐτῆς τῆς συνεχοῦς ᾐόνος καὶ ἐκ τῶν πλησίον νήσων, ὑπεναντίως τῷ Ἰταλικῷ τῷ ἀντικειμένῳ ἀλιμένῳ ὄντι· ἀλεεινοὶ δὲ καὶ χρηστόκαρποι ὁμοίως· ἐλαιόφυτοι γὰρ καὶ εὐάμπελοι, πλὴν εἴ τί που σπάνιον ἐκτετράχυνται τελέως. τοιαύτη δʼ οὖσα ὠλιγωρεῖτο πρότερον ἡ Ἰλλυρικὴ παραλία, τάχα μὲν καὶ κατʼ ἄγνοιαν τῆς ἀρετῆς, τὸ μέντοι πλέον διὰ τὴν ἀγριότητα τῶν ἀνθρώπων καὶ τὸ λῃστρικὸν ἔθος. ἡ δʼ ὑπερκειμένη ταύτης πᾶσα ὀρεινὴ καὶ ψυχρὰ καὶ νιφόβολός ἐστιν, ἡ δὲ προσάρκτιος καὶ μᾶλλον, ὥστε καὶ τῶν ἀμπέλων σπάνιν εἶναι καὶ ἐν ταῖς ὑψώσεσι καὶ ἐν τοῖς ἐπιπεδωτέροις. ὀροπέδια δʼ ἐστὶ ταῦτα ἃ κατέχουσιν οἱ Παννόνιοι, πρὸς νότον μὲν μέχρι Δαλματέων καὶ Ἀρδιαίων διατείνοντα, πρὸς ἄρκτον δὲ ἐπὶ τὸν Ἴστρον τελευτῶντα, πρὸς ἕω δὲ Σκορδίσκοις συνάπτοντα […] τῇ δὲ παρὰ τὰ ὄρη τῶν Μακεδόνων καὶ Θρᾳκῶν.

On the coast of Illyria, along its whole extent, and in the neighbouring islands, there are numerous excellent harbours, contrary to what occurs on the opposite Italian coast, where there are none. As in Italy, however, the climate is warm, and the soil productive of fruits; olives also and vines grow readily, except in some few excessively rugged places. Although Illyria possesses these advantages, it was formerly neglected, through ignorance, perhaps, of its fertility; but it was principally avoided on account of the savage manners of the inhabitants, and their piratical habits.

The region situated above the sea-coast is mountainous, cold, and at times covered with snow. The northern part is still colder, so that vines are rarely to be met with either in the hills or in the plains lower down. These mountain-plains are in the possession of the Pannonians, and extend towards the south as far as the Dalmatians and Ardiaei. They terminate towards the north at the Ister, and approach towards the east close to the Scordisci, who live near the Macedonian and Thracian mountains.

Αὐταριᾶται μὲν οὖν τὸ μέγιστον καὶ ἄριστον τῶν Ἰλλυριῶν ἔθνος ὑπῆρξεν, ὃ πρότερον μὲν πρὸς Ἀρδιαίους συνεχῶς ἐπολέμει περὶ ἁλῶν ἐν μεθορίοις πηγνυμένων ἐξ ὕδατος ῥέοντος ὑπὸ ἄγκει τινὶ τοῦ ἔαρος· ἀρυσαμένοις γὰρ καὶ ἀποθεῖσιν ἡμέρας πέντε ἐξεπήγνυντο οἱ ἅλες. συνέκειτο δὲ παρὰ μέρος χρῆσθαι τῷ ἁλοπηγίῳ, παραβαίνοντες δὲ τὰ συγκείμενα ἐπολέμουν· καταστρεψάμενοι δέ ποτε οἱ Αὐταριᾶται Τριβαλλοὺς ἀπὸ Ἀγριάνων μέχρι τοῦ Ἴστρου καθήκοντας ἡμερῶν πεντεκαίδεκα ὁδὸν ἐπῆρξαν καὶ τῶν ἄλλων Θρᾳκῶν τε καὶ Ἰλλυριῶν· κατελύθησαν δʼ ὑπὸ Σκορδίσκων πρότερον, ὕστερον δʼ ὑπὸ Ῥωμαίων, οἳ καὶ τοὺς Σκορδίσκους αὐτοὺς κατεπολέμησαν πολὺν χρόνον ἰσχύσαντας.

The Autariatae were the most populous and the bravest tribe of the Illyrians. Formerly, there were continual disputes between them and the Ardiaei respecting the salt which was spontaneously formed on the confines of their respective territories, in the spring season, from water which flows through a valley. The salt concreted five days after the water was drawn and deposited in reservoirs. The right of collecting salt was, by agreement, to be exercised alternately by each party, but the compact was broken and war was the consequence. After the Autariatae had subdued the Triballi, a people whose territory extended a journey of fifteen days, from the Agrianae to the Danube, they became masters of the Thracians and Illyrians. The Autariatae were first conquered by the Scordisci, and afterwards by the Romans, who overpowered the Scordisci, for a long time a powerful nation.

ὤικησαν δʼ οὗτοι παρὰ τὸν Ἴστρον διῃρημένοι δίχα, οἱ μὲν μεγάλοι Σκορδίσκοι καλούμενοι οἱ δὲ μικροί· οἱ μὲν μεταξὺ δυεῖν ποταμῶν ἐμβαλλόντων εἰς τὸν Ἴστρον, τοῦ τε Νοάρου τοῦ παρὰ τὴν Σεγεστικὴν ῥέοντος καὶ τοῦ Μάργου (τινὲς δὲ Βάργον φασίν), οἱ δὲ μικροὶ τούτου πέραν, συνάπτοντες Τριβαλλοῖς καὶ Μυσοῖς. εἶχον δὲ καὶ τῶν νήσων τινὰς οἱ Σκορδίσκοι· ἐπὶ τοσοῦτον δʼ ηὐξήθησαν ὥστε καὶ μέχρι τῶν Ἰλλυρικῶν καὶ τῶν Παιονικῶν καὶ Θρᾳκίων προῆλθον ὀρῶν· κατέσχον οὖν καὶ τὰς νήσους τὰς ἐν τῷ Ἴστρῳ τὰς πλείους, ἦσαν δὲ καὶ πόλεις αὐτοῖς Ἑόρτα καὶ Καπέδουνον. μετὰ δὲ τὴν τῶν Σκορδίσκων χώραν παρὰ μὲν τὸν Ἴστρον ἡ τῶν Τριβαλλῶν καὶ Μυσῶν ἔστιν, ὧν ἐμνήσθημεν πρότερον, καὶ τὰ ἕλη τὰ τῆς μικρᾶς καλουμένης Σκυθίας τῆς ἐντὸς Ἴστρου· καὶ τούτων ἐμνήσθημεν. ὑπεροικοῦσι δʼ οὗτοί τε καὶ Κρόβυζοι καὶ οἱ Τρωγλοδύται λεγόμενοι τῶν περὶ Κάλλατιν καὶ Τομέα καὶ Ἴστρον τόπων. εἶθʼ οἱ περὶ τὸ Αἷμον καὶ οἱ ὑπὲρ αὐτοῦ οἰκοῦντες μέχρι τοῦ Πόντου Κόραλλοι καὶ Βέσσοι καὶ Μαίδων τινὲς καὶ Δανθηλητῶν. πάντα μὲν οὖν ταῦτα λῃστρικώτατα ἔθνη, Βέσσοι δέ, οἵπερ τὸ πλέον τοῦ ὄρους νέμονται τοῦ Αἵμου, καὶ ὑπὸ τῶν λῃστῶν λῃσταὶ προσαγορεύονται, καλυβῖταί τινες καὶ λυπρόβιοι, συνάπτοντες τῇ τε Ῥοδόπῃ καὶ τοῖς Παίοσι καὶ τῶν Ἰλλυριῶν τοῖς τε Αὐταριάταις καὶ τοῖς Δαρδανίοις. μεταξὺ δὲ τούτων τε καὶ τῶν Ἀρδιαίων οἱ Δασαρήτιοι εἰσὶ καὶ Ἀγριᾶνες καὶ ἄλλα ἄσημα ἔθνη, ἃ ἐπόρθουν οἱ Σκορδίσκοι μέχρι ἠρήμωσαν τὴν χώραν καὶ δρυμῶν ἀβάτων ἐφʼ ἡμέρας πλείους ἐποίησαν μεστήν.

This people inhabited the country on the banks of the Danube, and were divided into two tribes, the Great and the Little Scordisci. The former occupied the space between two rivers, which empty themselves into the Danube, the Noarus, which runs beside Segestica, and the Margus, or, as some call it, Bargus. The Little Scordisci lived beyond this river close to the Triballi and Mysi. The Scordisci possessed some of the islands also. They increased so much in strength and numbers as to advance even to the Illyrian, Paeonian, and Thracian confines. Most of the islands on the Danube fell into their hands, and they possessed the cities Heorta and Capedunum.

Next to the territory of the Scordisci, lying along the banks of the Danube, is the country of the Triballi and Mysi, whom we have before mentioned; we have also spoken of the marshes of the Lesser Scythia on this side the Danube. This nation, and the Crobyzi, and the nation called Troglodytae, live above the districts in which are situated Callatis, Tomis, and Ister. Next are the people about the Mount Haemus, and those who live at its foot, extending as far as the Pontus, Coralli, and Bessi, and some tribes of Maedi and of Dantheletae. All these nations are very much addicted to robbery. The Bessi possess far the greatest part of Mount Haemus, and are called Robbers from their mode of life as free-booters. Some of them live in huts and lead a life of hardship. They extend close to Rhodope, the Paeeones, and to the Illyrian nations; to the Autariatae also, and the Dardanians. Between these and the Ardiaei are the Dasaretii, Hybrianes, and other obscure nations, whose numbers the Scordisci were continually reducing, until they had made the country a desert, full of impassable forests, which extended several days’ journey.

English translation by H. C. Hamilton and W. Falconer (1854). Original text: August Meineke (ed.), Strabonis Geographica, 3 vols., Leipzig: Teubner, 1877 (Greek text as digitised by Perseus).

Greek text and translation from the Perseus Digital Library, Tufts University, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Perseus Digital Library); translation public domain. Introductions, summaries and notes © GreekMythology.com.