Strabo · Geography Γεωγραφικά

Strabo, Geography 16.2.25–33: From Ptolemais to Pelusium: Joppa and Gaza

Strabo follows the coast from Ptolemais, with its glass-making sand, past Mount Carmel to Joppa, where some place the exposure of Andromeda to the sea-monster. He names Gadara and Ascalon with their philosophers, Gaza razed by Alexander, Rhinocolura and its mutilated colonists, and Casium, where Pompey the Great is buried. He ends with Artemidorus' distances.

Sections 16.2.25–33 · 1026 words · click a number to copy its link

εἶθʼ ἡ Πτολεμαΐς ἐστι μεγάλη πόλις ἣν Ἄκην ὠνόμαζον πρότερον, ᾗ ἐχρῶντο ὁρμητηρίῳ πρὸς τὴν Αἴγυπτον οἱ Πέρσαι. μεταξὺ δὲ τῆς Ἄκης καὶ Τύρου θινώδης αἰγιαλός ἐστιν ὁ φέρων τὴν ὑαλῖτιν ἄμμον· ἐνταῦθα μὲν οὖν φασι μὴ χεῖσθαι, κομισθεῖσαν εἰς Σιδῶνα δὲ τὴν χωνείαν δέχεσθαι· τινὲς δὲ καὶ τοῖς Σιδωνίοις εἶναι τὴν ὑαλῖτιν ψάμμον ἐπιτηδείαν εἰς χύσιν, οἱ δὲ πᾶσαν πανταχοῦ χεῖσθαί φασιν. ἤκουσα δʼ ἐν τῇ Ἀλεξανδρείᾳ παρὰ τῶν ὑαλουργῶν εἶναί τινα καὶ κατʼ Αἴγυπτον ὑαλῖτιν γῆν, ἧς χωρὶς οὐχ οἷόν τε τὰς πολυχρόους καὶ πολυτελεῖς κατασκευὰς ἀποτελεσθῆναι, καθάπερ καὶ ἄλλοις ἄλλων μιγμάτων δεῖν· καὶ ἐν Ῥώμῃ δὲ πολλὰ παρευρίσκεσθαί φασι καὶ πρὸς τὰς χρόας καὶ πρὸς τὴν ῥᾳστώνην τῆς κατασκευῆς, καθάπερ ἐπὶ τῶν κρυσταλλοφανῶν· ὅπου γε καὶ τρύβλιον χαλκοῦ πρίασθαι καὶ ἐκπωμάτιον ἔστιν.

Then follows Ptolemaïs, a large city, formerly called Ace. It was the place of rendezvous for the Persians in their expeditions against Egypt. Between Ace and Tyre is a sandy beach, the sand of which is used in making glass. The sand, it is said, is not fused there, but carried to Sidon to undergo that process. Some say that the Sidonians have, in their own country, the vitrifiable sand; according to others, the sand of every place can be fused. I heard at Alexandria from the glass-workers, that there is in Egypt a kind of vitrifiable earth, without which expensive works in glass of various colours could not be executed, but in other countries other mixtures are required; and at Rome, it is reported, there have been many inventions both for producing various colours, and for facilitating the manufacture, as for example in glass wares, where a glass bowl may be purchased for a copper coin, and glass is ordinarily used for drinking.

̔ιστορεῖται δὲ παράδοξον πάθος τῶν πάνυ σπανίων κατὰ τὸν αἰγιαλὸν τοῦτον τὸν μεταξὺ τῆς τε Τύρου καὶ τῆς Πτολεμαΐδος. καθʼ ὃν γὰρ καιρὸν οἱ Πτολεμαεῖς μάχην συνάψαντες πρὸς Σαρπηδόνα τὸν στρατηγὸν ἐλείφθησαν ἐν τῷ τόπῳ τούτῳ τροπῆς γενομένης λαμπρᾶς, ἐπέκλυσεν ἐκ τοῦ πελάγους κῦμα τοὺς φεύγοντας ὅμοιον πλημμυρίδι, καὶ τοὺς μὲν εἰς τὸ πέλαγος ἀπήρπασε καὶ διέφθειρεν, οἱ δʼ ἐν τοῖς κοίλοις τόποις ἔμειναν νεκροί· διαδεξαμένη δὲ ἡ ἄμπωτις πάλιν ἀνεκάλυψε καὶ ἔδειξε τὰ σώματα τῶν κειμένων ἀναμὶξ ἐν νεκροῖς ἰχθύσι. τοιαῦτα δὲ καὶ περὶ τὸ Κάσιον συμβαίνει τὸ πρὸς Αἰγύπτῳ, σπασμῷ τινι ὀξεῖ καὶ ἁπλῷ περιπιπτούσης τῆς γῆς καὶ εἰς ἑκάτερον μεταβαλλομένης ἅπαξ, ὥστε τὸ μὲν μετεωρισθὲν αὐτῆς μέρος ἐπαγαγεῖν τὴν θάλατταν, τὸ δὲ συνιζῆσαν δέξασθαι, τραπομένης δὲ τὴν ἀρχαίαν πάλιν ἕδραν ἀπολαβεῖν τὸν τόπον, τοτὲ μὲν οὖν καὶ ἐξαλλάξεώς τινος γενομένης τοτὲ δʼ οὔ, τάχα καὶ περιόδοις τισὶν ἐνδεδεμένων τῶν τοιούτων παθῶν ἀδήλοις ἡμῖν, καθάπερ τοῦτο καὶ ἐπὶ τῶν κατὰ τὸν Νεῖλον ἀναβάσεων λέγεται διαφόρων γινομένων, ἄδηλον δὲ τὴν τάξιν ἐχουσῶν.

A phenomenon of the rarest kind is said to have occurred on the shore between Tyre and Ptolemaïs. The people of Ptolemaïs had engaged in battle with Sarpedon the general, and after a signal defeat were left in this place, when a wave from the sea, like the rising tide, overwhelmed the fugitives; some were carried out to sea and drowned, others perished in hollow places; then again the ebb succeeding, uncovered and displayed to sight the bodies lying in confusion among dead fish.

A similar phenomenon took place at Mount Casium in Egypt. The ground, to a considerable distance, after a violent and single shock fell in parts, at once exchanging places; the elevated parts opposed the access of the sea, and parts which had subsided admitted it. Another shock occurred, and the place recovered its ancient position, except that there was an alteration (in the surface of the ground) in some places, and none in others. Perhaps such occurrences are connected with periodical returns the nature of which is unknown to us. This is said to be the case with the rise of the waters of the Nile, which exhibits a variety in its effects, but observes (in general) a certain order, which we do not comprehend.

μετὰ δὲ τὴν Ἄκην Στράτωνος πύργος πρόσορμον ἔχων. μεταξὺ δὲ ὅ τε Κάρμηλος τὸ ὄρος καὶ πολιχνίων ὀνόματα, πλέον δʼ οὐδέν, Συκαμίνων πόλις, Βουκόλων καὶ Κροκοδείλων πόλις καὶ ἄλλα τοιαῦτα· εἶτα δρυμὸς μέγας τις.

Next to Ace is the Tower of Strato, with a station for vessels. Between these places is Mount Carmel, and cities of which nothing but the names remain, as Sycaminopolis, Bucolopolis, Crocodeilopolis, and others of this kind; next is a large forest.

εἶτα Ἰόπη, καθʼ ἣν ἡ ἀπὸ τῆς Αἰγύπτου παραλία σημειωδῶς ἐπὶ τὴν ἄρκτον κάμπτεται, πρότερον ἐπὶ τὴν ἕω τεταμένη. ἐνταῦθα δὲ μυθεύουσί τινες τὴν Ἀνδρομέδαν ἐκτεθῆναι τῷ κήτει· ἐν ὕψει δέ ἐστιν ἱκανῶς τὸ χωρίον ὥστʼ ἀφορᾶσθαί φασιν ἀπʼ αὐτοῦ τὰ Ἱεροσόλυμα τὴν τῶν Ἰουδαίων μητρόπολιν· καὶ δὴ καὶ ἐπινείῳ τούτῳ κέχρηνται καταβάντες μέχρι θαλάττης οἱ Ἰουδαῖοι· τὰ δʼ ἐπίνεια τῶν λῃστῶν λῃστήρια δῆλον ὅτι ἐστί. τούτων δὲ καὶ ὁ Κάρμηλος ὑπῆρξε καὶ ὁ δρυμός· καὶ δὴ καὶ εὐάνδρησεν οὗτος ὁ τόπος, ὥστʼ ἐκ τῆς πλησίον κώμης Ἰαμνείας καὶ τῶν κατοικιῶν τῶν κύκλῳ τέτταρας μυριάδας ὁπλίζεσθαι. εἰσὶ δʼ ἐντεῦθεν εἰς τὸ Κάσιον τὸ πρὸς Πηλουσίῳ μικρῷ πλείους ἢ χίλιοι στάδιοι, τριακόσιοι δʼ ἄλλοι πρὸς αὐτὸ τὸ Πηλούσιον.

Then Joppa, where the coast of Egypt, which at first stretches towards the east, makes a remarkable bend towards the north. In this place, according to some writers, Andromeda was exposed to the sea-monster. It is sufficiently elevated; it is said to command a view of Jerusalem, the capital of the Jews, who, when they descended to the sea, used this place as a naval arsenal. But the arsenals of robbers are the haunts of robbers. Carmel, and the forest, belonged to the Jews. The district was so populous that the neighbouring village Iamneia, and the settlements around, could furnish forty thousand soldiers.

Thence to Casium, near Pelusium, are little more than 1000 stadia, and 1300 to Pelusium itself.

Ἐν δὲ τῷ μεταξὺ καὶ ἡ Γαδαρὶς ἔστιν, ἣν καὶ αὐτὴν ἐξιδιάσαντο οἱ Ἰουδαῖοι· εἶτʼ Ἀζωτὸς καὶ Ἀσκάλων. ἀπὸ δὲ Ἰαμνείας εἰς Ἀζωτὸν καὶ Ἀσκάλωνά εἰσιν ὅσον διακόσιοι στάδιοι. κρομμυών τʼ ἀγαθός ἐστιν ἡ χώρα τῶν Ἀσκαλωνιτῶν, πόλισμα δὲ μικρόν. ἐντεῦθεν ἦν Ἀντίοχος ὁ φιλόσοφος μικρὸν πρὸ ἡμῶν γεγονώς. ἐκ δὲ τῶν Γαδάρων Φιλόδημός τε ὁ Ἐπικούρειος καὶ Μελέαγρος καὶ Μένιππος ὁ σπουδογέλοιος καὶ Θεόδωρος ὁ καθʼ ἡμᾶς ῥήτωρ.

In the interval is Gadaris, which the Jews have appropriated to themselves, then Azotus and Ascalon. From Iamneia to Azotus and Ascalon are about 200 stadia. The country of the Ascalonitee produces excellent onions; the town is small. Antiochus the philosopher, who lived a little before our time, was a native of this place. Philodemus the Epicurean was a native of Gadara, as also Meleagrus, Menippus the satirist, and Theodorus the rhetorician, my contemporary.

εἶθʼ ὁ τῶν Γαζαίων λιμὴν πλησίον· ὑπέρκειται δὲ καὶ ἡ πόλις ἐν ἑπτὰ σταδίοις, ἔνδοξός ποτε γενομένη, κατεσπασμένη δʼ ὑπὸ Ἀλεξάνδρου καὶ μένουσα ἔρημος. ἐντεῦθεν δʼ ὑπέρβασις λέγεται χιλίων διακοσίων ἑξήκοντα σταδίων εἰς Αἴλανα πόλιν ἐπὶ τῷ μυχῷ τοῦ Ἀραβίου κόλπου κειμένην· διττὸς δʼ ἐστίν, ὁ μὲν ἔχων εἰς τὸ πρὸς τῇ Ἀραβίᾳ καὶ τῇ Γάζῃ μέρος, ὃν Αἰλανίτην προσαγορεύουσιν ἀπὸ τῆς ἐν αὐτῷ πόλεως, ὁ δʼ εἰς τὸ πρὸς Αἰγύπτῳ κατὰ τὴν Ἡρώων πόλιν, εἰς ὃν ἐκ Πηλουσίου ἡ ὑπέρθεσις ἐπιτομωτέρα· διʼ ἐρήμων δὲ καὶ ἀμμωδῶν χωρίων αἱ ὑπερβάσεις ἐπὶ καμήλων· πολὺ δὲ καὶ τὸ τῶν ἑρπετῶν ἐν αὐταῖς πλῆθος.

Next and near Ascalon is the harbour of the Gazaei. The city is situated inland at the distance of seven stadia. It was once famous, but was razed by Alexander, and remains uninhabited. There is said to be a passage thence across, of 1260 stadia, to the city Aila (Aelana), situated on the innermost recess of the Arabian Gulf. This recess has two branches, one, in the direction of Arabia and Gaza, is called Ailanites, from the city upon it; the other is in the direction of Egypt, towards Heroopolis, to which from Pelusium is the shortest road (between the two seas). Travelling is performed on camels, through a desert and sandy country, in the course of which snakes are found in great numbers.

μετὰ δὲ Γάζαν Ῥαφία, ἐν ᾗ μάχη συνέβη Πτολεμαίῳ τε τῷ τετάρτῳ καὶ Ἀντιόχῳ τῷ Μεγάλῳ. εἶτα Ῥινοκόρουρα, ἀπὸ τῶν εἰσῳκισμένων ἐκεῖ τὸ παλαιὸν ἀνθρώπων ἠκρωτηριασμένων τὰς ῥῖνας οὕτω καλουμένη· τῶν γὰρ Αἰθιόπων τις ἐπελθὼν ἐπὶ τὴν Αἴγυπτον ἀντὶ τοῦ ἀναιρεῖν τοὺς κακούργους ἀποτέμνων τὰς ῥῖνας ἐνταῦθα κατῴκιζεν, ὡς οὐκ ἂν ἔτι τολμήσοντας κακουργεῖν διὰ τὴν αἰσχύνην τῆς ὄψεως.

Next to Gaza is Raphia, where a battle was fought between Ptolemy the Fourth and Antiochus the Great. Then Rhinocolura, so called from the colonists, whose noses had been mutilated. Some Ethiopian invaded Egypt, and, instead of putting the malefactors to death, cut off their noses, and settled them at Rhinocolura, supposing that they would not venture to return to their own country, on account of the disgraceful condition of their faces.

καὶ αὐτὴ μὲν οὖν ἡ ἀπὸ Γάζης λυπρὰ πᾶσα ἀμμώδης· ἔτι δὲ μᾶλλον τοιαύτη ἡ ἐφεξῆς ὑπερκειμένη, ἔχουσα τὴν Σιρβωνίδα λίμνην παράλληλόν πως τῇ θαλάττῃ μικρὰν δίοδον ἀπολείπουσαν μεταξὺ μέχρι τοῦ ἐκρήγματος καλουμένου, μῆκος ὅσον διακοσίων σταδίων, πλάτος δὲ τὸ μέγιστον πεντήκοντα· τὸ δʼ ἔκρηγμα συγκέχωσται. εἶτα συνεχὴς ἄλλη τοιαύτη ἡ ἐπὶ τὸ Κάσιον, κἀκεῖθεν ἐπὶ τὸ Πηλούσιον.

The whole country from Gaza is barren and sandy, and still more so is that district next to it, which contains the lake Sirbonis, lying above it in a direction almost parallel to the sea, and leaving a narrow pass between, as far as what is called the Ecregma. The length of the pass is about 200, and the greatest breadth 50 stadia. The Ecregma is filled up with earth. Then follows another continuous tract of the same kind to Casium, and thence to Pelusium.

ἔστι δὲ τὸ Κάσιον θινώδης τις λόφος ἀκρωτηριάζων ἄνυδρος, ὅπου τὸ Πομπηίου τοῦ Μάγνου σῶμα κεῖται καὶ Διός ἐστιν ἱερὸν Κασίου· πλησίον δὲ καὶ ἐσφάγη ὁ Μάγνος δολοφονηθεὶς ὑπὸ τῶν Αἰγυπτίων. εἶθʼ ἡ ἐπὶ Πηλούσιον ὁδός, ἐν ᾗ τὰ Γέρρα καὶ ὁ Χαβρίου λεγόμενος χάραξ καὶ τὰ πρὸς τῷ Πηλουσίῳ βάραθρα ἃ ποιεῖ παρεκχεόμενος ὁ Νεῖλος, φύσει κοίλων καὶ ἑλωδῶν ὄντων τῶν τόπων.

τοιαύτη μὲν ἡ Φοινίκη. φησὶ δʼ Ἀρτεμίδωρος εἰς τὸ Πηλούσιον ἐκ μὲν Ὀρθωσίας εἶναι σταδίους τρισχιλίους ἑξακοσίους πεντήκοντα κατακολπίζοντι· ἐκ δὲ Μελαινῶν ἢ Μελανιῶν τῆς Κιλικίας τῶν πρὸς Κελένδεριν ἐπὶ μὲν τὰ μεθόρια τῆς Κιλικίας καὶ Συρίας χιλίους καὶ ἐνακοσίους· ἐντεῦθεν δʼ ἐπὶ τὸν Ὀρόντην πεντακοσίους εἴκοσιν· εἶτʼ ἐπὶ Ὀρθωσίαν χιλίους ἑκατὸν τριάκοντα.

The Casium is a sandy hill without water, and forms a promontory: the body of Pompey the Great is buried there, and on it is a temple of Jupiter Casius. Near this place Pompey the Great was betrayed by the Egyptians, and put to death. Next is the road to Pelusium, on which is situated Gerrha; and the rampart, as it is called, of Chabrias, and the pits near Pelusium, formed by the overflowing of the Nile in places naturally hollow and marshy.

Such is the nature of Phoenicia. Artemidorus says, that from Orthosia to Pelusium is 3650 stadia, including the winding of the bays, and from Melaenae or Melania in Cilicia to Celenderis, on the confines of Cilicia and Syria, are 1900 stadia; thence to the Orontes 520 stadia, and from Orontes to Orthosia 1130 stadia.

People and places in this passage

English translation by H. C. Hamilton and W. Falconer (1854). Original text: August Meineke (ed.), Strabonis Geographica, 3 vols., Leipzig: Teubner, 1877 (Greek text as digitised by Perseus).

Greek text and translation from the Perseus Digital Library, Tufts University, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Perseus Digital Library); translation public domain. Introductions, summaries and notes © GreekMythology.com.

Geography 16.2.25–33: From Ptolemais to Pelusium | Strabo