ἀπὸ δὲ τοῦ Πύλου τούτου καὶ τοῦ Λεπρείου τετρακοσίων που σταδίων ἐστὶ διάστημα ἐπὶ τὴν Μεσσηνιακὴν Πύλον καὶ τὸ Κορυφάσιον ἐπὶ θαλάττῃ κείμενα φρούρια, καὶ τὴν παρακειμένην Σφαγίαν νῆσον, ἀπὸ δὲ Ἀλφειοῦ ἑπτακοσίων πεντήκοντα, ἀπὸ δὲ τοῦ Χελωνάτα χιλίων τριάκοντα. ἐν δὲ τῷ μεταξὺ τό τε τοῦ Μακιστίου Ἡρακλέους ἱερόν ἐστι καὶ ὁ Ἀκίδων ποταμός. ῥεῖ δὲ παρὰ τάφον Ἰαρδάνου καὶ Χάαν πόλιν ποτὲ ὑπάρξασαν πλησίον Λεπρείου, ὅπου καὶ τὸ πεδίον τὸ Αἰπάσιον. περὶ ταύτης δὲ τῆς Χάας γενέσθαι φασὶν ἔνιοι τὸν πόλεμον τοῖς Ἀρκάσι πρὸς τοὺς Πυλίους, ὃν ἔφρασεν Ὅμηρος, καὶ δεῖν οἴονται γράφειν ἡβῷμʼ, ὡς ὅτʼ ἐπʼ ὠκυρόῳ Ἀκίδοντι μάχοντο / ἀγρόμενοι Πύλιοί τε καὶ Ἀρκάδες / Χάας πὰρ τείχεσσιν, / οὐ Κελάδοντι, οὐδὲ Φειᾶς· τῷ γὰρ τάφῳ τοῦ Ἰαρδάνου τοῦτον πλησιάζειν καὶ τοῖς Ἀρκάσι τὸν τόπον μᾶλλον ἢ ἐκεῖνον.
From this Pylus and the Lepreum to the Messenian Pylus and the Coryphasium, fortresses situated upon the sea, and to the adjoining island Sphagia, is a distance of about 400 stadia, and from the Alpheius a distance of 750, and from the promontory Chelonatas 1030 stadia. In the intervening distance are the temple of the Macistian Hercules, and the river Acidon, which flows beside the tomb of Jardanus, and Chaa, a city which was once near Lepreum, where also is the Aepasian plain. It was for this Chaa, it is said, that the Arcadians and Pylians went to war with each other, which war Homer has mentioned, and it is thought that the verse ought to be written, Oh that I were young as when multitudes of Pylii, and of Arcades, handling the spear, fought together at the swift-flowing Acidon near the walls of Chaa, not Celadon, nor Pheia, for this place is nearer the tomb of Jardanus and the Arcades than the other.
Κυπαρισσία τέ ἐστιν ἐπὶ τῇ θαλάττῃ τῇ Τριφυλιακῇ καὶ Πύργοι καὶ ὁ Ἀκίδων ποταμὸς καὶ Νέδα. νυνὶ μὲν οὖν τῇ Τριφυλίᾳ πρὸς τὴν Μεσσηνίαν ὅριόν ἐστι τὸ τῆς Νέδας ῥεῦμα λάβρον ἐκ τοῦ Λυκαίου κατιὸν Ἀρκαδικοῦ ὄρους, ἐκ πηγῆς ἣν ἀναρρῆξαι τεκοῦσαν τὸν Δία μυθεύεται Ῥέαν νίπτρων χάριν. ῥεῖ δὲ παρὰ Φιγαλίαν, καθʼ ὃ γειτνιῶσι Πυργῖται Τριφυλίων ἔσχατοι Κυπαρισσιεῦσι πρώτοις Μεσσηνίων. τὸ δὲ παλαιὸν ἄλλως διώριστο, ὡς καὶ τινὰς τῶν πέραν τῆς Νέδας ὑπὸ τῷ Νέστορι εἶναι, τόν τε Κυπαρισσήεντα καὶ ἄλλα τινὰ ἐπέκεινα, καθάπερ καὶ τὴν θάλατταν τὴν Πυλίαν ὁ ποιητὴς ἐπεκτείνει μέχρι τῶν ἑπτὰ πόλεων ὧν ὑπέσχετο Ἀγαμέμνων τῷ Ἀχιλλεῖ πᾶσαι δʼ ἐγγὺς ἁλὸς νέαται Πύλου ἠμαθόεντος. / τοῦτο γὰρ ἴσον τῷ ἐγγὺς ἁλὸς τῆς Πυλίας.
On the Triphylian Sea are situated Cyparissia, and Pyrgi, and the rivers Acidon and Neda. At present the boundary of Triphylia towards Messenia is the impetuous stream of the Neda descending from the Lycaeus, a mountain of Arcadia, and rising from a source which, according to the fable, burst forth to furnish water in which Rhea was to wash herself after the birth of Jupiter. It flows near Phigalia, and empties itself into the sea where the Pyrgitae, the extreme tribe of the Triphylii, approach the Cyparissenses, the first of tile Messenian nation. But, anciently, the country had other boundaries, so that the dominions of Nestor included some places on the other side of the Neda, as the Cyparisseïs, and some others beyond that tract, in the same manner as the poet extends the Pylian sea as far as the seven cities, which Agamemnon promised to Achilles, All near the sea bordering upon the sandy Pylus, / which is equivalent to, near the Pylian sea.
ἐφεξῆς δʼ οὖν τῷ Κυπαρισσήεντι ἐπὶ τὴν Μεσσηνιακὴν Πύλον παραπλέοντι τὸ Κορυφάσιον ἥ τε Ἔρανα ἔστιν, ἥν τινες οὐκ εὖ Ἀρήνην νομίζουσιν κεκλῆσθαι πρότερον ὁμωνύμως τῇ Πυλιακῇ, Πλαταμώδης, ἀφʼ ἧς ἐπὶ τὸ Κορυφάσιον καὶ τὴν νῦν καλουμένην Πύλον ἑκατόν εἰσι στάδιοι. ἔστι δὲ καὶ νησίον καὶ πολίχνιον ἐν αὐτῷ ὁμώνυμον Πρωτή. οὐκ ἂν δʼ ἐξητάζομεν ἴσως ἐπὶ τοσοῦτον τὰ παλαιά, ἀλλʼ ἤρκει λέγειν ὡς ἔχει νῦν ἕκαστα, εἰ μή τις ἦν ἐκ παίδων ἡμῖν παραδεδομένη φήμη περὶ τούτων· ἄλλων δʼ ἄλλα εἰπόντων ἀνάγκη διαιτᾶν. πιστεύονται δʼ ὡς ἐπὶ τὸ πολὺ οἱ ἐνδοξότατοί τε καὶ πρεσβύτατοι καὶ κατʼ ἐμπειρίαν πρῶτοι· Ὁμήρου δʼ εἰς ταῦτα ὑπερβεβλημένου πάντας, ἀνάγκη συνεπισκοπεῖν καὶ τὰ ὑπʼ ἐκείνου λεχθέντα καὶ συγκρούειν πρὸς τὰ νῦν, καθάπερ καὶ μικρὸν ἔμπροσθεν ἔφαμεν.
Next in order to the Cyparisseis in traversing the coast towards the Messenian Pylus and the Coryphasium, we meet with Erana, (Eranna,) which some writers incorrectly suppose was formerly called Arene, by the same name as the Pylian city, and the promontory Platamodes, from which to the Coryphasium, and to the place at present called Pylus, are 100 stadia. There is also a cenotaph and a small town in it both of the same name—Protē.
We ought not perhaps to carry our inquiries so far into antiquity, and it might be sufficient to describe the present state of each place, if certain reports about them had not been delivered down to us in childhood; but as different writers give different accounts, it is necessary to examine them. The most famous and the most ancient writers being the first in point of personal knowledge of the places, are, in general, persons of the most credit. Now as Homer surpasses all others in these respects, we must examine what he says, and compare his descriptions with the present state of places, as we have just said. We have already considered his description of the Hollow Elis and of Buprasium.
περὶ μὲν οὖν τῆς κοίλης Ἤλιδος καὶ τοῦ Βουπρασίου τὰ λεχθέντα ὑφʼ Ὁμήρου προεπέσκεπται ἡμῖν. περὶ δὲ τῆς ὑπὸ τῷ Νέστορι οὕτω φησίν οἳ δὲ Πύλον τʼ ἐνέμοντο καὶ Ἀρήνην ἐρατεινὴν / καὶ Θρύον, Ἀλφειοῖο πόρον, καὶ ἐύκτιτον Αἶπυ / καὶ Κυπαρισσήεντα καὶ Ἀμφιγένειαν ἔναιον / καὶ Πτελεὸν καὶ Ἕλος καὶ Δώριον, ἔνθα τε Μοῦσαι / ἀντόμεναι Θάμυριν τὸν Θρήικα παῦσαν ἀοιδῆς, / Οἰχαλίηθεν ἰόντα παρʼ Εὐρύτου Οἰχαλιῆος. / Πύλος μὲν οὖν ἔστι περὶ ἧς ἡ ζήτησις· αὐτίκα δʼ ἐπισκεψόμεθα περὶ αὐτῆς. περὶ δὲ τῆς Ἀρήνης εἴρηται· ἣν δὲ λέγει νῦν Θρύον, ἐν ἄλλοις καλεῖ Θρυόεσσαν ἔστι δέ τις Θρυόεσσα πόλις, αἰπεῖα κολώνη, / τηλοῦ ἐπʼ Ἀλφειῷ. / Ἀλφειοῦ δὲ πόρον φησίν, ὅτι πεζῇ περατὸς εἶναι δοκεῖ κατὰ τοῦτον τὸν τόπον· καλεῖται δὲ νῦν Ἐπιτάλιον τῆς Μακιστίας χωρίον. τὸ εὔκτιτον δʼ Αἶπυ ἔνιοι μὲν ζητοῦσι πότερον ποτέρου ἐπίθετον, καὶ τίς ἡ πόλις, καὶ εἰ αἱ νῦν Μαργάλαι τῆς Ἀμφιδολίας· αὗται μὲν οὖν οὐ φυσικὸν ἔρυμα, ἕτερον δὲ δείκνυται φυσικὸν ἐν τῇ Μακιστίᾳ. ὁ μὲν οὖν τοῦθʼ ὑπονοῶν φράζεσθαι ὄνομά φησι τῆς πόλεως τὸ Αἶπυ ἀπὸ τοῦ συμβεβηκότος φυσικῶς, ὡς Ἕλος καὶ Αἰγιαλὸν καὶ ἄλλα πλείω· ὁ δὲ τὴν Μαργάλαν τοὔμπαλιν ἴσως. Θρύον δὲ καὶ Θρυόεσσαν τὸ Ἐπιτάλιόν φασιν, ὅτι πᾶσα μὲν αὕτη ἡ χώρα θρυώδης, μάλιστα δʼ οἱ ποταμοί· ἐπὶ πλέον δὲ διαφαίνεται τοῦτο κατὰ τοὺς περατοὺς τοῦ ῥείθρου τόπους. τάχα δέ φασι Θρύον μὲν εἰρῆσθαι τὸν πόρον, εὔκτιτον δʼ Αἶπυ τὸ Ἐπιτάλιον· ἔστι γὰρ ἐρυμνὸν φύσει· καὶ γὰρ ἐν ἄλλοις αἰπεῖαν κολώνην λέγει ἔστι δέ τις Θρυόεσσα πόλις, αἰπεῖα κολώνη, / τηλοῦ ἐπʼ Ἀλφειῷ, πυμάτη Πύλου ἠμαθόεντος. /
He describes the dominions of Nestor in these words: “And they who inhabited Pylus, and the beautiful Arene, and Thryum, a passage across the Alpheius, and the well-built Aepy, and Cyparisseis, and Amphigeneia, and Pteleum, and Helos, and Dorium, where the Muses having met with Thamyris the Thracian, deprived him of the power of song, as he was coming from Oechalia, from the house of Eurytus the Oechalian. It is Pylus, therefore, to which the question relates, and we shall soon treat of it. We have already spoken of Arene. The places, which he here calls Thryum, in another passage he calls Thryoessa, There is a city Thryoessa, lofty, situated on a hill, / Far off, on the banks of the Alpheius. / He calls it the ford or passage of the Alpheius, because, according to these verses, it seems as if it could be crossed at this place on foot. Thryum is at present called Epitalium, a village of Macistia.
With respect to εὔκτιτον αἶπυ, Aepy the well-built,” some writers ask which of these words is the epithet of the other, and what is the city, and whether it is the present Margalae of Amphidolia, but this Margalae is not a natural fortress, but another is meant, a natural strong-hold in Macistia. Writers who suppose this place to be meant, say, that Aepy is the name of the city, and infer it from its natural properties, as in the example of Helos, Aegialos, and many others: those who suppose Margalae to be meant here, will assert the contrary.
Thryum, or Thryoessa, they say, is Epitalium, because all the country is θρυώδης, or sedgy, and particularly the banks of the rivers, but this appears more clearly at the fordable places of the stream. Perhaps Thryum is meant by the ford, and by the well-built Aepy, Epitalium, which is naturally strong, and in the other part of the passage he mentions a lofty hill; The city Thryoessa, a lofty hill, / Far away by the Alpheus. /
ὁ δὲ Κυπαρισσήεις ἔστι μὲν περὶ τὴν πρότερον Μακιστίαν, ἡνίκα καὶ πέραν τῆς Νέδας ἔτι ἦν Μακιστία, ἀλλʼ οὐκ οἰκεῖται, ὡς οὐδὲ τὸ Μάκιστον· ἄλλη δʼ ἐστὶν ἡ Μεσσηνιακὴ Κυπαρισσία, ὁμώνυμος μὲν οὔ, ὁμοίως δὲ νῦν κἀκείνη λέγεται Κυπαρισσία ἑνικῶς τε καὶ θηλυκῶς, ὁ δὲ ποταμὸς Κυπαρισσήεις. καὶ Ἀμφιγένεια δὲ τῆς Μακιστίας ἐστὶ περὶ τὸν Ὑψόεντα, ὅπου τὸ τῆς Λητοῦς ἱερόν. τὸ δὲ Πτελεὸν κτίσμα μὲν γέγονε τῶν ἐκ Πτελεοῦ τοῦ Θετταλικοῦ ἐποικησάντων· λέγεται γὰρ κἀκεῖ ἀγχίαλόν τʼ Ἀντρῶνα ἰδὲ Πτελεὸν λεχεποίην. / ἔστι δὲ δρυμῶδες χωρίον ἀοίκητον, Πτελεάσιον καλούμενον. ἕλος δʼ οἱ μὲν περὶ τὸν Ἀλφειὸν χώραν τινά φασιν, οἱ δὲ καὶ πόλιν, ὡς τὴν Λακωνικήν ἕλος τʼ ἔφαλον πτολίεθρον. / οἱ δὲ περὶ τὸ Ἀλώριον ἕλος, οὗ τὸ τῆς Ἑλείας Ἀρτέμιδος ἱερὸν τῆς ὑπὸ τοῖς Ἀρκάσιν· ἐκεῖνοι γὰρ ἔσχον τὴν ἱερωσύνην. Δώριον δʼ οἱ μὲν ὄρος, οἱ δὲ πεδίον, φασίν· οὐδὲν δὲ νῦν δείκνυται· ὅμως δʼ ἔνιοι τὴν νῦν Ὄλουριν ἢ Ὄλουραν ἐν τῷ καλουμένῳ αὐλῶνι τῆς Μεσσηνίας κειμένην Δώριον λέγουσιν. αὐτοῦ δέ που καὶ ἡ Οἰχαλία ἐστὶν ἡ τοῦ Εὐρύτου ἡ νῦν Ἀνδανία, πολίχνιον Ἀρκαδικὸν ὁμώνυμον τῷ Θετταλικῷ καὶ τῷ Εὐβοϊκῷ· ὅθεν φησὶν ὁ ποιητὴς ἐς τὸ Δώριον ἀφικόμενον Θάμυριν τὸν Θρᾷκα ὑπὸ Μουσῶν ἀφαιρεθῆναι τὴν μουσικήν.
Cyparisseïs is near the old Macistia, which then extended even to the other side of the Neda, but it is not inhabited, as neither is Macistum. There is also another, the Messenian Cyparissia, not having quite the same name, but one like it. The city of Macistia is at present called Cyparissia, in the singular number, and feminine gender, but the name of the river is Cyparisseis.
Amphigeneia, also belonging to Macistia, is near Hypsoeis, where is the temple of Latona.
Pteleum was founded by the colony that came from Pteleum in Thessaly, for it is mentioned in this line, Antron on the sea-coast, and the grassy Pteleum. / It is a woody place, uninhabited, called Pteleasimum.
Some writers say, that Helos was some spot near the Alpheius; others, that it was a city like that in Laconia, and Helos, a small city on the sea; / others say that it is the marsh near Alorium, where is a temple of the Eleian Artemis, (Diana of the Marsh,) belonging to the Arcadians, for this people had the priesthood.
Dorium is said by some authors to be a mountain, by others a plain, but nothing is now to be seen; yet it is alleged, that tile present Oluris, or Olura, situated in the Aulon, as it is called, of Messenia, is Dorium. Somewhere there also is Oechalia of Eurytus, the present Andania, a small Arcadian town of the same name as those in Thessaly and Euboea, whence the poet says, Thamyris, the Thracian, came to Dorium, and was deprived by the Muses of the power of song.