ἔστι δὲ Μαντινεῦσι ναὸς διπλοῦς μάλιστά που κατὰ μέσον τοίχῳ διειργόμενος· τοῦ ναοῦ δὲ τῇ μὲν ἄγαλμά ἐστιν Ἀσκληπιοῦ, τέχνη Ἀλκαμένους, τὸ δὲ ἕτερον Λητοῦς ἐστιν ἱερὸν καὶ τῶν παίδων· Πραξιτέλης δὲ τὰ ἀγάλματα εἰργάσατο τρίτῃ μετὰ Ἀλκαμένην ὕστερον γενεᾷ. τούτων πεποιημένα ἐστὶν ἐπὶ τῷ βάθρῳ Μοῦσαι καὶ Μαρσύας αὐλῶν. ἐνταῦθα ἀνὴρ ἐπείργασται στήλῃ Πολύβιος ὁ Λυκόρτα·
καὶ τοῦ μὲν ἐπιμνησθησόμεθα καὶ ἐν τοῖς ἔπειτα, Μαντινεῦσι δέ ἐστι καὶ ἄλλα ἱερά, τὸ μὲν Σωτῆρος Διός, τὸ δὲ Ἐπιδώτου καλουμένου· ἐπιδιδόναι γὰρ δὴ ἀγαθὰ αὐτὸν ἀνθρώποις. ἔστι δὲ καὶ Διοσκούρων καὶ ἑτέρωθι Δήμητρος καὶ Κόρης ἱερόν· πῦρ δὲ ἐνταῦθα καίουσι, ποιούμενοι φροντίδα μὴ λάθῃ σφίσιν ἀποσβεσθέν. καὶ Ἥρας πρὸς τῷ θεάτρῳ ναὸν ἐθεασάμην·
Πραξιτέλης δὲ τὰ ἀγάλματα αὐτήν τε καθημένην ἐν θρόνῳ καὶ παρεστώσας ἐποίησεν Ἀθηνᾶν καὶ Ἥβην παῖδα Ἥρας. πρὸς δὲ τῆς Ἥρας τῷ βωμῷ καὶ Ἀρκάδος τάφος τοῦ Καλλιστοῦς ἐστι· τὰ δὲ ὀστᾶ τοῦ Ἀρκάδος ἐπηγάγοντο ἐκ Μαινάλου, χρησμοῦ σφισιν ἐλθόντος ἐκ Δελφῶν·
ἔστι δὲ Μαιναλίη δυσχείμερος, ἔνθα τε κεῖται / Ἀρκάς, ἀφʼ οὗ δὴ πάντες ἐπίκλησιν καλέονται, / οὗ τρίοδος καὶ τετράοδος καὶ πεντακέλευθος. / ἔνθα σʼ ἐγὼ κέλομαι στείχειν καὶ ἐύφρονι θυμῷ / Ἀρκάδʼ ἀειραμένους κατάγειν εἰς ἄστυ ἐραννόν· / ἔνθα τε δὴ τέμενός τε θυηλάς τʼ Ἀρκάδι τεύχειν. / τὸ δὲ χωρίον τοῦτο, ἔνθα ὁ τάφος ἐστὶ τοῦ Ἀρκάδος, καλοῦσιν Ἡλίου βωμούς.
τοῦ θεάτρου δὲ οὐ πόρρω μνήματα προήκοντά ἐστιν ἐς δόξαν, τὸ μὲν Ἑστία καλουμένη κοινή, περιφερὲς σχῆμα ἔχουσα· Ἀντινόην δὲ αὐτόθι ἐλέγετο κεῖσθαι τὴν Κηφέως· τῷ δὲ στήλη τε ἐφέστηκε καὶ ἀνὴρ ἱππεὺς ἐπειργασμένος ἐστὶν ἐπὶ τῇ στήλῃ, Γρύλος ὁ Ξενοφῶντος.
τοῦ θεάτρου δὲ ὄπισθεν ναοῦ τε Ἀφροδίτης ἐπίκλησιν Συμμαχίας ἐρείπια καὶ ἄγαλμα ἐλείπετο· τὸ δὲ ἐπίγραμμα τὸ ἐπὶ τῷ βάθρῳ τὴν ἀναθεῖσαν τὸ ἄγαλμα ἐδήλου θυγατέρα εἶναι Πασέου Νικίππην. τὸ δὲ ἱερὸν κατεσκευάσαντο τοῦτο οἱ Μαντινεῖς ὑπόμνημα ἐς τοὺς ἔπειτα τῆς ὁμοῦ Ῥωμαίοις ἐπʼ Ἀκτίῳ ναυμαχίας. σέβουσι δὲ καὶ Ἀθηνᾶν Ἀλέαν, καὶ ἱερόν τε καὶ ἄγαλμα Ἀθηνᾶς ἐστιν Ἀλέας αὐτοῖς.
ἐνομίσθη δὲ καὶ Ἀντίνους σφίσιν εἶναι θεός· τῶν δὲ ἐν Μαντινείᾳ νεώτατός ἐστιν ὁ τοῦ Ἀντίνου ναός. οὗτος ἐσπουδάσθη περισσῶς δή τι ὑπὸ βασιλέως Ἀδριανοῦ· ἐγὼ δὲ μετʼ ἀνθρώπων μὲν ἔτι αὐτὸν ὄντα οὐκ εἶδον, ἐν δὲ ἀγάλμασιν εἶδον καὶ ἐν γραφαῖς. ἔχει μὲν δὴ γέρα καὶ ἑτέρωθι, καὶ ἐπὶ τῷ Νείλῳ πόλις Αἰγυπτίων ἐστὶν ἐπώνυμος Ἀντίνου· τιμὰς δὲ ἐν Μαντινείᾳ κατὰ τοιόνδε ἔσχηκε. γένος ἦν ὁ Ἀντίνους ἐκ Βιθυνίου τῆς ὑπὲρ Σαγγαρίου ποταμοῦ· οἱ δὲ Βιθυνιεῖς Ἀρκάδες τέ εἰσι καὶ Μαντινεῖς τὰ ἄνωθεν.
τούτων ἕνεκα ὁ βασιλεὺς κατεστήσατο αὐτῷ καὶ ἐν Μαντινείᾳ τιμάς, καὶ τελετή τε κατὰ ἔτος ἕκαστον καὶ ἀγών ἐστιν αὐτῷ διὰ ἔτους πέμπτου. οἶκος δέ ἐστιν ἐν τῷ γυμνασίῳ Μαντινεῦσιν ἀγάλματα ἔχων Ἀντίνου καὶ ἐς τἄλλα θέας ἄξιος λίθων ἕνεκα οἷς κεκόσμηται καὶ ἀπιδόντι ἐς τὰς γραφάς· αἱ δὲ Ἀντίνου εἰσὶν αἱ πολλαί, Διονύσῳ μάλιστα εἰκασμέναι. καὶ δὴ καὶ τῆς ἐν Κεραμεικῷ γραφῆς, ἣ τὸ ἔργον εἶχε τὸ Ἀθηναίων ἐν Μαντινείᾳ, καὶ ταύτης αὐτόθι ἐστὶ μίμημα.
Μαντινεῦσι δὲ ἐν τῇ ἀγορᾷ γυναικός τε εἰκὼν χαλκῆ— Μαντινεῖς καλοῦσι Διομένειαν Ἀρκάδος —καὶ ἡρῷόν ἐστι Ποδάρου· φασὶ δὲ ἀποθανεῖν αὐτὸν ἐν τῇ πρὸς Ἐπαμινώνδαν καὶ Θηβαίους μάχῃ. γενεαῖς δὲ τρισὶν ἐμοῦ πρότερον μετέθεσαν τοῦ τάφου τὸ ἐπίγραμμα ἐς ἄνδρα ἀπόγονον μὲν ἐκείνου Ποδάρου καὶ ὁμώνυμον, γεγονότα δὲ καθʼ ἡλικίαν ὡς πολιτείας ἤδη Ῥωμαίων μετειληφέναι.
Ποδάρην δὲ ἐπʼ ἐμοῦ τὸν ἀρχαῖον ἐτίμων οἱ Μαντινεῖς, λέγοντες ὡς ἄριστος μὲν καὶ αὐτῶν καὶ τῶν συμμάχων γένοιτο ἐν τῇ μάχῃ Γρύλος ὁ Ξενοφῶντος, ἐπὶ δὲ τῷ Γρύλῳ Κηφισόδωρος Μαραθώνιος, οὗτος δὲ τηνικαῦτα Ἀθηναίοις ἐτύγχανεν ἱππαρχῶν· τρίτα δὲ ἀνδραγαθίας Ποδάρῃ νέμουσιν.
At Mantinea there is a double temple, divided just about the middle by a partition wall. In one division of the temple is an image of Aesculapius, a work of Alcamenes: the other division is sacred to Latona and her children. The images in the latter were wrought by Praxiteles two generations after Alcamenes. On the pedestal of these images are represented the Muses and Marsyas ; the latter is playing on the flute. Here there is a likeness of Polybius, son of Lycortas, wrought in relief on a slab. I will make mention of Polybius again in the sequel. There are other sanctuaries at Mantinea, including one of Saviour Zeus, and another of Zeus surnamed Bountiful, because he gives freely good gifts to men. There is also a sanctuary of the Dioscuri, and elsewhere one of Demeter and the Maid. Here they keep a fire burning, taking heed that it does not go out. And I saw a temple of Hera beside the theatre: the images are by Praxiteles, and represent the goddess seated on a throne with Athena and Hebe, daughter of Hera, standing beside her.
Beside the altar of Hera is the grave of Arcas, son of Callisto. They fetched his bones from Maenalus in consequence of an oracle which they received from Delphi :— Bleak is Maenalia, where Arcas lies Who gave his name to all Arcadians, He lies where three and four, yea, five roads meet. Thither I bid thee go and kindly raise And bring him downward to the lovely town, And there make images and a precinct and sacrifices to Arcas. And the place where the grave of Arcas is they call the altars of the Sun. Not far from the theatre are famous tombs: one is of a round form, and is called the Common Hearth: they said that Antinoe, daughter of Cepheus, lies there. On the other tomb is a slab with the figure of a horseman carved in relief: it is Grylus, son of Xenophon.
Behind the theatre are ruins of a temple of Aphrodite surnamed Alliance: her image also remains, and the inscription on the base sets forth that the image was dedicated by Nicippe, daughter of Paseas. This sanctuary was built by the Mantineans to commemorate the sea-fight at Actium, in which they fought on the side of the Romans. They also worship Athena Alea, and they have a sanctuary and image of her.
Antinous is esteemed by them a god, and his temple is the newest at Mantinea. The Emperor Hadrian was exceedingly attached to him. I never saw him in life, but I have seen statues and paintings of him. An Egyptian city on the Nile is named after Antinous, and he receives homage in other places. The reason why he is honoured in Mantinea is this. Antinous was a native of Bithynium, on the river Sangarius, and the Bithynians are descended from Arcadians of Mantinea. Therefore the Emperor established his worship in Mantinea also, and mysteries are celebrated in his honour every year, and games every fourth year. In the gymnasium at Mantinea there is a chamber containing images of Antinous: it is worth seeing for the stones with which it is adorned as well as for its paintings, most of which represent Antinous, generally in the likeness of Dionysus. Here, too, is a copy of the picture of the Athenians at the battle of Mantinea, the original of which is in the Ceramicus.
In the market-place of Mantinea is a bronze statue of a woman, whom the Mantineans call Diomenia, daughter of Arcas, and there is a shrine of the hero Podares: they say that he fell in the battle against Epaminondas and the Thebans. But three generations before my time they changed the inscription on the grave so as to make it apply to a descendant and namesake of Podares, who lived late enough to enjoy Roman citizenship. But in my time it was the elder Podares whom the Mantineans honoured: they declare that the bravest man in the battle, of all the Mantineans and their allies, was Grylus, son of Xenophon, and next to Grylus was Cephisodorus of Marathon, who commanded the Athenian cavalry on that day; but the third place in respect of valour they assign to Podares.
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