Φενεάταις δὲ καὶ Δήμητρός ἐστιν ἱερὸν ἐπίκλησιν Ἐλευσινίας, καὶ ἄγουσι τῇ θεῷ τελετήν, τὰ Ἐλευσῖνι δρώμενα καὶ παρὰ σφίσι τὰ αὐτὰ φάσκοντες καθεστηκέναι· ἀφικέσθαι γὰρ αὐτοῖς Ναὸν κατὰ μάντευμα ἐκ Δελφῶν, τρίτον δὲ ἀπόγονον Εὐμόλπου τοῦτον εἶναι τὸν Ναόν. παρὰ δὲ τῆς Ἐλευσινίας τὸ ἱερὸν πεποίηται Πέτρωμα καλούμενον, λίθοι δύο ἡρμοσμένοι πρὸς ἀλλήλους μεγάλοι.
ἄγοντες δὲ παρὰ ἔτος ἥντινα τελετὴν μείζονα ὀνομάζουσι, τοὺς λίθους τούτους τηνικαῦτα ἀνοίγουσι· λαβόντες δὲ γράμματα ἐξ αὐτῶν ἔχοντα ἐς τὴν τελετὴν καὶ ἀναγνόντες ἐς ἐπήκοον τῶν μυστῶν, κατέθεντο ἐν νυκτὶ αὖθις τῇ αὐτῇ. Φενεατῶν δὲ οἶδα τοὺς πολλοὺς καὶ ὀμνύντας ὑπὲρ μεγίστων τῷ Πετρώματι.
καὶ ἐπίθημα ἐπʼ αὐτῷ περιφερές ἐστιν, ἔχον ἐντὸς Δήμητρος πρόσωπον Κιδαρίας· τοῦτο ὁ ἱερεὺς περιθέμενος τὸ πρόσωπον ἐν τῇ μείζονι καλουμένῃ τελετῇ ῥάβδοις κατὰ λόγον δή τινα τοὺς ὑποχθονίους παίει. Φενεατῶν δέ ἐστι λόγος, καὶ πρὶν ἢ Ναὸν ἀφικέσθαι καὶ ἐνταῦθα Δήμητρα πλανωμένην· ὅσοι δὲ Φενεατῶν οἴκῳ τε καὶ ξενίοις ἐδέξαντο αὐτήν, τούτοις τὰ ὄσπρια ἡ θεὸς τὰ ἄλλα, κύαμον δὲ οὐκ ἔδωκέ σφισι.
κύαμον μὲν οὖν ἐφʼ ὅτῳ μὴ καθαρὸν εἶναι νομίζουσιν ὄσπριον, ἔστιν ἱερὸς ἐπʼ αὐτῷ λόγος· οἱ δὲ τῷ Φενεατῶν λόγῳ δεξάμενοι τὴν θεόν, Τρισαύλης καὶ Δαμιθάλης, ἐποιήσαντο μὲν Δήμητρος ναὸν Θεσμίας ὑπὸ τῷ ὄρει τῇ Κυλλήνῃ, κατεστήσαντο δὲ αὐτῇ καὶ τελετήν, ἥντινα καὶ νῦν ἄγουσιν. ὁ δὲ ναὸς οὗτος τῆς Θεσμίας σταδίους πέντε μάλιστά που καὶ δέκα ἐστὶν ἀπωτέρω τῆς πόλεως.
ἐς δὲ Πελλήνην ἐκ Φενεοῦ καὶ ἐς Αἴγειραν ἰόντι Ἀχαιῶν πόλιν, πέντε που προεληλυθότι καὶ δέκα σταδίους, Ἀπόλλωνός ἐστι Πυθίου ναός· ἐρείπια δὲ ἐλείπετο αὐτοῦ μόνα καὶ βωμὸς μέγας λίθου λευκοῦ. ἐνταῦθα ἔτι καὶ νῦν Ἀπόλλωνι Φενεᾶται καὶ Ἀρτέμιδι θύουσιν, Ἡρακλέα ἑλόντα Ἦλιν τὸ ἱερὸν λέγοντες ποιῆσαι. ἔστι δὲ αὐτόθι καὶ ἡρώων μνήματα, ὅσοι Ἡρακλεῖ στρατείας ἐπὶ Ἠλείους μετασχόντες οὐκ ἀπεσώθησαν οἴκαδε ἐκ τῆς μάχης.
τέθαπται δὲ Τελαμὼν ἐγγύτατα τοῦ ποταμοῦ τοῦ Ἀροανίου, ἀπωτέρω μικρὸν ἢ ἔστι τὸ ἱερὸν τοῦ Ἀπόλλωνος, Χαλκώδων δὲ οὐ πόρρω κρήνης καλουμένης Οἰνόης. τὸν μὲν δὴ Ἐλεφήνορος τοῦ Εὐβοεῦσιν ἐς Ἴλιον ἡγησαμένου καὶ τὸν Αἴαντός τε καὶ Τεύκρου, τούτων μὲν τοὺς πατέρας οὐκ ἀποδέξαιτο ἄν τις ἐν τούτῳ πεσεῖν τῷ ἀγῶνι· πῶς μὲν γὰρ ἂν συνεπελάβετο Ἡρακλεῖ τοῦ ἔργου Χαλκώδων, ὃν πρότερον ἔτι ἀποκτεῖναι Ἀμφιτρύωνα καὶ μαρτυρεῖται καὶ πιστεύειν ἄξιά ἐστιν ἐν Θήβαις;
πῶς δὲ Τεῦκρος ᾤκισεν ἂν Σαλαμῖνα ἐν Κύπρῳ πόλιν, μηδενὸς ὡς ἀνέστρεψεν ἐκ Τροίας ἐκβαλόντος ἐκ τῆς οἰκείας; τίς δʼ ἂν ἐξήλασεν ἄλλος πλὴν ὁ Τελαμὼν αὐτόν; δῆλα οὖν ἐστι Χαλκώδοντα οὐ τὸν ἐξ Εὐβοίας καὶ Τελαμῶνα οὐ τὸν Αἰγινήτην ἐπὶ Ἠλείους Ἡρακλεῖ μετεσχηκέναι τῆς στρατείας· ὁμώνυμοι δὲ ἐπιφανέσιν ἄνδρες ἀφανέστεροι καὶ ἐφʼ ἡμῶν ἔτι καὶ τὸν ἅπαντα ἐγίνοντο ὁμοίως χρόνον.
Φενεάταις δὲ πρὸς τὸ Ἀχαϊκὸν τὸ ὅμορον οὐ καθʼ ἓν ὅροι τῆς γῆς εἰσιν, ἀλλὰ πρὸς μὲν Πελλήνην ὁ καλούμενος Πωρίνας, πρὸς δὲ τὴν Αἰγειρᾶτιν †τὸ ἐπʼ Ἄρτεμιν. ἐν δὲ αὐτῶν Φενεατῶν τῇ χώρᾳ μετὰ τὸ ἱερὸν τοῦ Ἀπόλλωνος τοῦ Πυθίου προήξεις τε οὐκ ἐπὶ πολὺ καὶ ἐντὸς ἔσῃ τῆς ὁδοῦ τῆς ἐπὶ τὸ ὄρος ἀγούσης τὴν Κρᾶθιν.
ἐν τούτῳ τῷ ὄρει τοῦ ποταμοῦ τοῦ Κράθιδός εἰσιν αἱ πηγαί· ῥεῖ δὲ ἐς θάλασσαν παρὰ Αἰγάς, ἔρημον τὰ ἐπʼ ἐμοῦ χωρίον, τὰ δὲ παλαιότερα Ἀχαιῶν πόλιν. ἀπὸ τούτου δὲ καλεῖται τοῦ Κράθιδος καὶ ἐν Ἰταλίᾳ ποταμὸς ἐν γῇ τῇ Βρεττίων· ἐν δὲ τῇ Κράθιδι τῷ ὄρει Πυρωνίας ἱερόν ἐστιν Ἀρτέμιδος, καὶ τὰ ἔτι ἀρχαιότερα παρὰ τῆς θεοῦ ταύτης ἐπήγοντο Ἀργεῖοι πῦρ ἐς τὰ Λερναῖα.
The Pheneatians have also a sanctuary of Demeter surnamed Eleusinian, and they celebrated mysteries in her honour, alleging that rites identical with those performed at Eleusis were instituted in their land; for Naus, they say, a grandson of Eumolpus, came to their country in obedience to an oracle from Delphi. Beside the sanctuary of the Eleusinian goddess is what is called the Petroma, two great stones fitted to each other. Every second year, when they are celebrating what they call the Greater Mysteries, they open these stones, and taking out of them certain writings which bear on the mysteries, they read them in the hearing of the initiated, and put them back in their place that same night. I know, too, that on the weightiest matters most of the Pheneatians swear by the Petroma. There is a round top on it, which contains a mask of Demeter Cidaria: this mask the priest puts on his face at the Greater Mysteries, and smites the Underground Folk with rods. I suppose there is some legend to account for the custom. The Pheneatians have a legend that Demeter came thither on her wanderings even before Naus; and that to those of the Pheneatians who welcomed her hospitably she gave all the different kinds of pulse except beans. They have a sacred story about the bean to show why they think it an unclean kind of pulse. The men who received the goddess, according to the Pheneatian legend, were Trisaules and Damithales : they built a temple of Demeter Thesmia (‘goddess of laws’) under Mount Cyllene, and instituted in her honour the mysteries which they still celebrate. This temple of Thesmia is just about fifteen furlongs from the city.
Going along the road that leads from Pheneus to Pellene and Aegira in Achaia you come, after about fifteen furlongs, to a temple of Pythian Apollo: nothing is left of it but ruins and a great altar of white marble. Here the Pheneatians still sacrifice to Apollo and Artemis, and they say that the sanctuary was founded by Hercules after he had conquered Elis.
Here, too, are tombs of heroes who marched with Hercules against the Eleans, but after the battle returned home no more. Telamon is buried hard by the river Aroanius, a little farther off than the sanctuary of Apollo; and Chalcodon is buried not far from the fountain called Oenoe. But that the Chalcodon and Telamon who fell in this combat were Chalcodon, the father of that Elephenor who led the Euboeans to Ilium, and Telamon, the father of Ajax and Teucer, is not to be believed. How, pray, could Chalcodon have helped Hercules in the battle when we have trustworthy evidence that he had previously been knocked on the head by Amphitryo at Thebes? And why should Teucer have founded Salamis in Cyprus, if on his return from Troy nobody had driven him from his native land? And who but Telamon should have driven him out? Clearly, then, it was not the Chalcodon of Euboea nor the Telamon of Aegina who marched with Hercules against the Eleans. Famous names have been borne by obscure persons in all ages, as they are at this day. 4. The Pheneatian territory marches with that of Achaia at more points than one. In the direction of Pellene the boundary is at the Porinas, as it is called: in the direction of Aegira it is at the place called ‘To Artemis.’ In the territory of Pheneus you shall go on past the sanctuary of Pythian Apollo no great way, and you shall find yourself on the road that leads to Mount Crathis. In this mountain are the springs of the river Crathis which flows into the sea beside Aegae, now a desert place, but in the olden time a city of Achaia. From this Crathis an Italian river in the land of the Bruttians takes its name. On Mount Crathis is a sanctuary of Pyronian Artemis: of old the Argives used to fetch fire from the sanctuary of this goddess for the Lernaean rites.
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