Strabo · Geography Γεωγραφικά

Strabo, Geography 5.3.4–6: Latium's coast, Circe and the Via Appia

Strabo explains how Latium grew to include the Aequi, Volsci and Hernici and how Alba was destroyed. Along the coast he describes Ostia, Antium and the temples of Aphrodite (Venus) at Lavinium and Ardea, places revered because of Aeneas's arrival, then Mount Circaeum with its temple of Circe and a cup said to have belonged to Odysseus (Ulysses). He follows the Via Appia through Tarracina, Formiae and Minturnae to Sinuessa, with notes on wine.

Sections 5.3.4–6 · 1466 words · click a number to copy its link

οἱ δʼ οὖν Λατῖνοι κατʼ ἀρχὰς μὲν ἦσαν ὀλίγοι, καὶ οἱ πλείους οὐ προσεῖχον Ῥωμαίοις· ὕστερον δὲ καταπλαγέντες τὴν ἀρετὴν τοῦ τε Ῥωμύλου καὶ τῶν μετʼ ἐκεῖνον βασιλέων ὑπήκοοι πάντες ὑπῆρξαν. καταλυθέντων δὲ τῶν τε Αἴκων καὶ τῶν Ὀυόλσκων καὶ Ἑρνίκων, ἔτι δὲ πρότερον Ῥουτούλων τε καὶ Ἀβοριγίνων, ἡ τούτων χώρα Λατίνη προσηγόρευται πᾶσα. ἦν δὲ τῶν Ὀυόλσκων τὸ Πωμεντῖνον πεδίον, ὅμορον τοῖς Λατίνοις, καὶ πόλις Ἀπίολα, ἣν κατέσκαψε Ταρκύνιος Πρίσκος. Αἶκοι δὲ γειτονεύοντες μάλιστα τοῖς Κυρίταις, καὶ τούτων δʼ ἐκεῖνος τὰς πόλεις ἐξεπόρθησεν· ὁ δὲ υἱὸς αὐτοῦ τὴν Σουέσσαν εἷλε τὴν μητρόπολιν τῶν Ὀυόλσκων. Ἕρνικοι δὲ πλησίον ᾤκουν τῷ τε Λανουίῳ καὶ τῇ Ἄλβᾳ καὶ αὐτῇ τῇ Ῥώμῃ· οὐκ ἄπωθεν δʼ οὐδʼ Ἀρικία καὶ Τελλῆναι καὶ Ἄντιον. Ἀλβανοὶ δὲ κατʼ ἀρχὰς μὲν ὡμονόουν τοῖς Ῥωμαίοις ὁμόγλωττοί τε ὄντες καὶ Λατῖνοι, βασιλευόμενοι δʼ ἑκάτεροι χωρὶς ἐτύγχανον· οὐδὲν δʼ ἧττον ἐπιγαμίαι τε ἦσαν πρὸς ἀλλήλους καὶ ἱερὰ κοινὰ τὰ ἐν Ἄλβᾳ καὶ ἄλλα δίκαια πολιτικά· ὕστερον δὲ πολέμου συστάντος ἡ μὲν Ἄλβα κατεσκάφη πλὴν τοῦ ἱεροῦ, οἱ δʼ Ἀλβανοὶ πολῖται Ῥωμαίων ἐκρίθησαν. καὶ τῶν ἄλλων δὲ τῶν περιοικίδων πόλεων αἱ μὲν ἀνῃρέθησαν αἱ δὲ ἐταπεινώθησαν ἀπειθοῦσαι, τινὲς δὲ καὶ ηὐξήθησαν διὰ τὴν εὔνοιαν. νυνὶ μὲν οὖν ἡ παραλία μέχρι πόλεως Σινοέσσης ἀπὸ τῶν Ὠστίων Λατίνη καλεῖται, πρότερον δὲ μέχρι τοῦ Κιρκαίου μόνον ἐσχήκει τὴν ἐπίδοσιν· καὶ τῆς μεσογαίας δὲ πρότερον μὲν οὐ πολλή, ὕστερον δὲ καὶ μέχρι Καμπανίας διέτεινε καὶ Σαυνιτῶν καὶ Πελίγνων καὶ ἄλλων τῶν τὸ Ἀπέννινον κατοικούντων.

Thus then the Latini originally were few in number, and for the most part under no subjection to the Romans; but afterwards, being struck by the valour of Romulus and the kings who succeeded him, they all submitted. But the Aequi, the Volsci, the Hernici; and before them the Rutuli, the aborigines, the Rhaeci, together with certain of the Argyrusci and the Preferni, being subdued, the whole of their different countries were included under the name of Latium. To the Volsci pertained the pomentine plain, bordering on the territory of the Latini, and the city of Apiola, levelled to the ground by Tarquinius Priscus. The Aequi principally were neighbours to the Quirites, whose cities Tarquinius Priscus likewise devastated. His son took Suessa, the metropolis of the Volsci. The Hernici dwelt near to Lanuvium, Alba, and to Rome itself; neither were Aricia, the Tellenae, and Antium at any great distance. The Albani were at first friendly with the Romans, speaking as they did the same language, and being likewise of the Latin stock; and though they were under separate governments, this did not prevent them from marrying together, nor from performing in common the sacred ceremonies at Alba, and other civil rites. In after-time, however, war having sprung up, Alba was entirely destroyed with the exception of the temple, and the Albani were declared citizens of Rome. Of the other surrounding cities, those which resisted were either destroyed or enfeebled, while others, which were friendly to the Romans, flourished. At the present day the coast from Ostia to the city of Sinuessa is denominated the Latin coast; formerly the country thus designated extended only so far as Circaeum. The interior also [of Latium] was formerly small; but it afterwards extended to Campania, the Samnitae, the Peligni, and other nations dwelling around the Apennines.

̔́απασα δʼ ἐστὶν εὐδαίμων καὶ παμφόρος, πλὴν ὀλίγων χωρίων τῶν κατὰ τὴν παραλίαν ὅσα ἑλώδη καὶ νοσερά, οἷα τὰ τῶν Ἀρδεατῶν καὶ τὰ μεταξὺ Ἀντίου καὶ Λανουίου μέχρι Πωμεντίνου καί τινων τῆς Σητίνης χωρίων καὶ τῆς περὶ Ταρρακῖναν καὶ τὸ Κιρκαῖον ἢ εἴ τινα ὀρεινὰ καὶ πετρώδη· καὶ ταῦτα δʼ οὐ τελέως ἀργὰ οὐδʼ ἄχρηστα, ἀλλὰ νομὰς παρέχει δαψιλεῖς ἢ ὕλην ἢ καρπούς τινας ἑλείους ἢ πετραίους· τὸ δὲ Καίκουβον ἑλῶδες ὂν εὐοινοτάτην ἄμπελον τρέφει τὴν δενδρῖτιν. πόλεις δʼ ἐπὶ θαλάττῃ μὲν τῶν Λατίνων εἰσὶ τά τε Ὤστια, πόλις ἀλίμενος διὰ τὴν πρόσχωσιν ἣν ὁ Τίβερις παρασκευάζει πληρούμενος ἐκ πολλῶν ποταμῶν· παρακινδύνως μὲν οὖν ὁρμίζονται μετέωρα ἐν τῷ σάλῳ τὰ ναυκλήρια, τὸ μέντοι λυσιτελὲς νικᾷ· καὶ γὰρ ἡ τῶν ὑπηρετικῶν σκαφῶν εὐπορία τῶν ἐκδεχομένων τὰ φορτία καὶ ἀντιφορτιζόντων ταχὺν ποιεῖ τὸν ἀπόπλουν πρὶν ἢ τοῦ ποταμοῦ ἅψασθαι, καὶ μέρους ἀποκουφισθέντος εἰσπλεῖ καὶ ἀνάγεται μέχρι τῆς Ῥώμης, σταδίους ἑκατὸν ἐνενήκοντα. κτίσμα δʼ ἐστὶ τὰ Ὤστια Ἄγκου Μαρκίου. αὕτη μὲν ἡ πόλις τοιαύτη. ἑξῆς δʼ ἐστὶν Ἄντιον, ἀλίμενος καὶ αὐτὴ πόλις· ἵδρυται δʼ ἐπὶ πέτραις, διέχει δὲ τῶν Ὠστίων περὶ διακοσίους ἑξήκοντα σταδίους. νυνὶ μὲν οὖν ἀνεῖται τοῖς ἡγεμόσιν εἰς σχολὴν καὶ ἄνεσιν τῶν πολιτικῶν, ὅτε λάβοιεν καιρόν, καὶ διὰ τοῦτο κατῳκοδόμηνται πολυτελεῖς οἰκήσεις ἐν τῇ πόλει συχναὶ πρὸς τὰς τοιαύτας ἐπιδημίας. καὶ πρότερον δὲ ναῦς ἐκέκτηντο καὶ ἐκοινώνουν τῶν λῃστηρίων τοῖς Τυρρηνοῖς, καίπερ ἤδη Ῥωμαίοις ὑπακούοντες. διόπερ καὶ Ἀλέξανδρος πρότερον ἐγκαλῶν ἐπέστειλε, καὶ Δημήτριος ὕστερον, τοὺς ἁλόντας τῶν λῃστῶν ἀναπέμπων τοῖς Ῥωμαίοις, χαρίζεσθαι μὲν αὐτοῖς ἔφη τὰ σώματα διὰ τὴν πρὸς τοὺς Ἕλληνας συγγένειαν, οὐκ ἀξιοῦν δὲ τοὺς αὐτοὺς ἄνδρας στρατηγεῖν τε ἅμα τῆς Ἰταλίας καὶ λῃστήρια ἐκπέμπειν, καὶ ἐν μὲν τῇ ἀγορᾷ Διοσκούρων ἱερὸν ἱδρυσαμένους τιμᾶν οὓς πάντες σωτῆρας ὀνομάζουσιν, εἰς δὲ τὴν Ἑλλάδα πέμπειν τὴν ἐκείνων πατρίδα τοὺς λεηλατήσοντας. ἔπαυσαν δʼ αὐτοὺς Ῥωμαῖοι τῆς τοιαύτης ἐπιτηδεύσεως. ἀνὰ μέσον δὲ τούτων τῶν πόλεων ἐστὶ τὸ Λαουίνιον, ἔχον κοινὸν τῶν Λατίνων ἱερὸν Ἀφροδίτης· ἐπιμελοῦνται δʼ αὐτοῦ διὰ προπόλων Ἀρδεᾶται· εἶτα Λαυρεντόν. ὑπέρκειται δὲ τούτων ἡ Ἀρδέα κατοικία Ῥουτούλων ἐν ἑβδομήκοντα σταδίοις ἀπὸ τῆς θαλάττης. ἔστι δὲ καὶ ταύτης πλησίον Ἀφροδίσιον, ὅπου πανηγυρίζουσι Λατῖνοι. Σαυνῖται δʼ ἐπόρθησαν τοὺς τόπους καὶ λείπεται μὲν ἴχνη πόλεων, ἔνδοξα δὲ διὰ τὴν Αἰνείου γέγονεν ἐπιδημίαν καὶ τὰς ἱεροποιίας, ἐξ ἐκείνων τῶν χρόνων παραδεδόσθαι φασί.

The whole [of Latium] is fertile, and abounding in every production, with the exception of a few districts along the coast, which are marshy and unhealthy; such as the country of Ardea, the lands between Antium and Lanuvium as far as Pometia, and certain of the districts of Setia, Terracina, and Circaeum. Some parts may also be too mountainous and rocky; but even these are not absolutely idle and useless, since they furnish abundant pasturage, wood, and the peculiar productions of the marsh and rock; while Caecubum, which is entirely marshy, nourishes a vine, the dendritis, which produces the most excellent wine. Of the maritime cities of Latium, one is Ostia. This city has no port, owing to the accumulation of the alluvial deposit Brought down by the Tiber, which is swelled by numerous rivers; vessels therefore bring to anchor further out, but not without danger; however, gain overcomes every thing, for there is an abundance of lighters in readiness to freight and unfreight the larger ships, before they approach the mouth of the river, and thus enable them to perform their voyage speedily. Being lightened of a part of their cargo, they enter the river and sail up to Rome, a distance of about 190 stadia. Such is the city of Ostia, founded by Ancus Martius. Next in order comes Antium, which city is likewise destitute of any port; it is situated on rocks, and about 260 stadia distant from Ostia. At the present day it is devoted to the leisure and recreation of statesmen from their political duties, whenever they can find time, and is in consequence covered with sumptuous mansions suited to such rusticating. The inhabitants of Antium had formerly a marine, and even after they were under subjection to the Romans, took part with the Tyrrhenian pirates. Of this, first, Alexander sent to complain; after him Demetrius, having taken many of these pirates, sent them to the Romans, saying that he would surrender them their persons on account of their affinity to the Greeks, and remarking at the same time, that it seemed to him a great impropriety, that those who held sway over the whole of Italy should send out pirates, and that they who had consecrated in their forum a temple to the honour of the Dioscuri, whom all denominated the Saviours, should likewise send to commit acts of piracy on Greece, which was the father-land of those divinities. Hereupon the Romans put a stop to this occupation [piracy]. Between these two cities is Lavinium, which contains a temple of Venus common to all the Latini, the care of which is intrusted to the priests of Ardea. After this is Laurentum; and above these lies Ardea, a colony of the Rutuli, 70 stadia from the sea; near to it is another temple of Venus, where all the Latini hold a public festival. These regions have been ravaged by the Samnitae, and only the traces of the cities left; but even these are reverenced on account of the arrival of Aeneas here, and of the religious rites which they say were bequeathed from those times.

μετὰ δὲ Ἄντιον τὸ Κιρκαῖον ἐστὶν ἐν διακοσίοις καὶ ἐνενήκοντα σταδίοις ὄρος νησίζον θαλάττῃ τε καὶ ἕλεσι· φασὶ δὲ καὶ πολύρριζον εἶναι, τάχα τῷ μύθῳ τῷ περὶ τῆς Κίρκης συνοικειοῦντες. ἔχει δὲ πολίχνιον καὶ Κίρκης ἱερὸν καὶ Ἀθηνᾶς βωμόν, δείκνυσθαι δὲ καὶ φιάλην τινά φασιν Ὀδυσσέως. μεταξὺ δὲ ὅ τε Στόρας ποταμὸς καὶ ἐπʼ αὐτῷ ὕφορμος. ἔπειτα προσεχὴς αἰγιαλὸς λιβί, πρὸς αὐτῷ μόνον τῷ Κιρκαίῳ λιμένιον ἔχων. ὑπέρκειται δʼ ἐν τῇ μεσογαίᾳ τὸ Πωμεντῖνον πεδίον· τὴν δὲ συνεχῆ ταύτῃ πρότερον Αὔσονες ᾤκουν, οἵπερ καὶ τὴν Καμπανίαν εἶχον, μετὰ δὲ τούτους Ὄσκοι· καὶ τούτοις δὲ μετῆν τῆς Καμπανίας, νῦν δʼ ἅπαντα Λατίνων ἐστὶ μέχρι Σινοέσσης, ὡς εἶπον. ἴδιον δέ τι τοῖς Ὄσκοις καὶ τῷ τῶν Αὐσόνων ἔθνει συμβέβηκε· τῶν μὲν γὰρ Ὄσκων ἐκλελοιπότων ἡ διάλεκτος μένει παρὰ τοῖς Ῥωμαίοις, ὥστε καὶ ποιήματα σκηνοβατεῖσθαι κατά τινα ἀγῶνα πάτριον καὶ μιμολογεῖσθαι· τῶν δʼ Αὐσόνων οὐδʼ ἅπαξ οἰκησάντων ἐπὶ τῇ Σικελικῇ θαλάττῃ, τὸ πέλαγος ὅμως Αὐσόνιον καλεῖται. ἑξῆς δʼ ἐν ἑκατὸν σταδίοις τῷ Κιρκαίῳ Ταρρακῖνα ἐστί, Τραχίνη καλουμένη πρότερον ἀπὸ τοῦ συμβεβηκότος. πρόκειται δὲ αὐτῆς μέγα ἕλος ὃ ποιοῦσι δύο ποταμοί· καλεῖται δʼ ὁ μείζων Οὔφης. ἐνταῦθα δὲ συνάπτει τῇ θαλάττῃ πρῶτον ἡ Ἀππία ὁδός, ἐστρωμένη μὲν ἀπὸ τῆς Ῥώμης μέχρι Βρεντεσίου, πλεῖστον δʼ ὁδευομένη, τῶν δʼ ἐπὶ θαλάττῃ πόλεων τούτων ἐφαπτομένη μόνον, τῆς τε Ταρρακίνης καὶ τῶν ἐφεξῆς Φορμιῶν τε καὶ Μιντούρνης καὶ Σινοέσσης, καὶ τῶν ἐσχάτων Τάραντός τε καὶ Βρεντεσίου. πλησίον δὲ τῆς Ταρρακίνης βαδίζοντι ἐπὶ τῆς Ῥώμης παραβέβληται τῇ ὁδῷ τῇ Ἀππίᾳ διῶρυξ ἐπὶ πολλοὺς τόπους πληρουμένη τοῖς ἑλείοις τε καὶ τοῖς ποταμίοις ὕδασι· πλεῖται δὲ μάλιστα μὲν νύκτωρ, ὥστʼ ἐμβάντας ἀφʼ ἑσπέρας ἐκβαίνειν πρωίας καὶ βαδίζειν τὸ λοιπὸν τῇ ὁδῷ, ἀλλὰ καὶ μεθʼ ἡμέραν· ῥυμουλκεῖ δʼ ἡμιόνιον. ἑξῆς δὲ Φορμίαι Λακωνικὸν κτίσμα ἐστίν, Ὁρμίαι λεγόμενον πρότερον διὰ τὸ εὔορμον. καὶ τὸν μεταξὺ δὲ κόλπον ἐκεῖνοι Καιάταν ὠνόμασαν· τὰ γὰρ κοῖλα πάντα καιέτας οἱ Λάκωνες προσαγορεύουσιν· ἔνιοι δʼ ἐπώνυμον τῆς Αἰνείου τροφοῦ τὸν κόλπον φασίν. ἔχει δὲ μῆκος σταδίων ἑκατὸν ἀρξάμενος ἀπὸ Ταρρακίνης μέχρι τῆς ἄκρας τῆς ὁμωνύμου· ἀνέωγέ τʼ ἐνταῦθα σπήλαια ὑπερμεγέθη, κατοικίας μεγάλας καὶ πολυτελεῖς δεδεγμένα· ἐντεῦθεν δʼ ἐπὶ τὰς Φορμίας τετταράκοντα. ταύτης δʼ ἀνὰ μέσον εἰσὶ καὶ Σινοέσσης αἱ Μιντοῦρναι, σταδίους ἑκατέρας διέχουσαι περὶ ὀγδοήκοντα. διαρρεῖ δὲ Λεῖρις ποταμός, Κλάνις δʼ ἐκαλεῖτο πρότερον· φέρεται δʼ ἄνωθεν ἐκ τῶν Ἀπεννίνων ὀρῶν καὶ τῆς * Ὀυηστίνης παρὰ Φρεγέλλας κώμην (πρότερον δʼ ἦν πόλις ἔνδοξος), ἐκπίπτει δʼ εἰς ἄλσος ἱερὸν τιμώμενον περιττῶς ὑπὸ τῶν ἐν Μιντούρναις ὑποκείμενον τῇ πόλει. τῶν δὲ σπηλαίων ἐν ὄψει μάλιστα πρόκεινται δύο νῆσοι πελάγιαι, Πανδατερία τε καὶ Ποντία, μικραὶ μὲν οἰκούμεναι δὲ καλῶς, οὐ πολὺ ἀπʼ ἀλλήλων διέχουσαι, τῆς ἠπείρου δὲ πεντήκοντα ἐπὶ τοῖς διακοσίοις. ἔχεται δὲ τοῦ Καιάτου κόλπου τὸ Καίκουβον, τούτου δὲ Φοῦνδοι, πόλις ἐν τῇ ὁδῷ τῇ Ἀππίᾳ κειμένη. πάντες δʼ εἰσὶν οἱ τόποι οὗτοι σφόδρα εὔοινοι· ὁ δὲ Καίκουβος καὶ ὁ Φουνδανὸς καὶ ὁ Σητῖνος τῶν διωνομασμένων εἰσί, καθάπερ ὁ Φάλερνος καὶ ὁ Ἀλβανὸς καὶ ὁ Στατανός. ἡ δὲ Σινόεσσα ἐν κόλπῳ ἵδρυται, ἀφʼ οὗ καὶ τοὔνομα· σίνος γὰρ ὁ κόλπος· πλησίον ἐστὶ δʼ αὐτῆς θερμὰ λουτρὰ κάλλιστα, ποιοῦντα πρὸς νόσους ἐνίας. αὗται μὲν αἱ ἐπὶ θαλάττῃ τῶν Λατίνων πόλεις.

At 290 stadia from Antium is Mount Circaeum, insulated by the sea and marshes. They say that it contains numerous roots, but this perhaps is only to harmonize with the myth relating to Circe. It has a small city, together with a temple to Circe and an altar to Minerva; they likewise say that a cup is shown which belonged to Ulysses. Between [Antium and Circaeum] is the river Stura, which has a station for ships: the rest of the coast is exposed to the southwest wind, with the exception of this small harbour of Circaeum. Above this, in the interior, is the Pomentine plain: the region next to this was formerly inhabited by the Ausonians, who likewise possessed Campania: next after these the Osci, who also held part of Campania; now, however, as we have remarked, the whole, as far as Sinuessa, belongs to the Latini. A peculiar fate has attended the Osci and Ausonians; for although the Osci have ceased to exist as a distinct tribe, their dialect is extant among the Romans, dramatic and burlesque pieces composed in it being still represented at certain games which were instituted in ancient times. And as for the Ausonians, although they never have dwelt by the sea of Sicily, it is named the Ausonian Sea. At 100 stadia from Circaeum is Tarracina, formerly named Trachina, on account of its ruggedness; before it is a great marsh, formed by two rivers, the larger of which is called the Aufidus. This is the first place where the Via Appia approaches the sea. This road is paved from Rome to Brundusium, and has great traffic. Of the maritime cities, these alone are situated on it; Tarracina, beyond it Formiae, Minturnae, Sinuessa, and towards its extremity Tarentum and Brundusium. Near to Tarracina, advancing in the direction of Rome, a canal runs by the side of the Via Appia, which is supplied at intervals by water from the marshes and rivers. Travellers generally sail up it by night, embarking in the evening, and landing in the morning to travel the rest of their journey by the way; however, during the day the passage boat is towed by mules. Beyond is Formiae, founded by the Lacedaemonians, and formerly called Hormiae, on account of its excellent port. Between these [two cities], is a gulf which they have named Caiata, in fact all gulfs are called by the Lacedaemonians Caietae: some, however, say that the gulf received this appellation from [Caieta], the nurse of Aeneas. From Tarracina to the promontory of Caiata is a length of 100 stadia. Here are opened vast caverns, which contain large and sumptuous mansions. From hence to Formiae is a distance of 40 stadia. Between this city and Sinuessa, at a distance of about 80 stadia from each, is Minturnae. The river Liris, formerly named the Clanis, flows through it. It descends from the Apennines, passes through the country of the Vescini, and by the village of Fregellae, (formerly a famous city,) and so into a sacred grove situated below the city, and held in great veneration by the people of Minturnae. There are two islands, named Pandataria and Pontia, lying in the high sea, and clearly discernible from the caverns. Although small, they are well inhabited, are not at any great distance from each other, and at 250 stadia from the mainland. Caecubum is situated on the gulf of Caiata, and next to it Fundi, a city on the Via Appia. All these places produce excellent wines; but those of Caecubum, Fundi, and Setia are most in repute, and so are the Falernian, Alban, and Statanian wines. Sinuessa is situated in a gulf from which it takes its name, sinus signifying [in Latin] a gulf. Near to it are some fine hot-baths, good for the cure of various maladies. Such are the maritime cities of Latium.

People and places in this passage

English translation by H. C. Hamilton and W. Falconer (1854). Original text: August Meineke (ed.), Strabonis Geographica, 3 vols., Leipzig: Teubner, 1877 (Greek text as digitised by Perseus).

Greek text and translation from the Perseus Digital Library, Tufts University, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Perseus Digital Library); translation public domain. Introductions, summaries and notes © GreekMythology.com.