Strabo · Geography Γεωγραφικά

Strabo, Geography 5.4.5–6: Avernus, Baiae and Puteoli

Strabo describes Misenum, Baïae and the Lucrine and Avernus lakes, and gives the old tales of an oracle of the dead where Odysseus (Ulysses) came and where the Kimmerians lived underground. He says Agrippa's clearing of the wood has made these accounts seem fables. He adds that the Lucrine bank was built by Heracles (Hercules) driving the oxen of Geryon, and describes Puteoli, its harbours and the sulphurous Forum-Vulcani.

Sections 5.4.5–6 · 963 words · click a number to copy its link

πλησίον δὲ τῆς Κύμης τὸ Μισηνὸν ἀκρωτήριον καὶ ἐν τῷ μεταξὺ Ἀχερουσία λίμνη, τῆς θαλάττης ἀνάχυσίς τις τεναγώδης. κάμψαντι δὲ τὸ Μισηνὸν λιμὴν εὐθὺς ὑπὸ τῇ ἄκρᾳ, καὶ μετὰ τοῦτον ἐγκολπίζουσα ᾐὼν εἰς βάθος, ἐν ᾗ αἱ Βαῖαι καὶ τὰ θερμὰ ὕδατα τὰ καὶ πρὸς τρυφὴν καὶ πρὸς θεραπείαν νόσων ἐπιτήδεια. ταῖς δὲ Βαίαις συνεχὴς ὅ τε Λοκρῖνος κόλπος καὶ ἐντὸς τούτου ὁ Ἄορνος χερρόνησον ποιῶν τὴν ἀπολαμβανομένην μέχρι Μισηνοῦ γῆν ἀπὸ τῆς μεταξὺ Κύμης καὶ αὐτοῦ. λοιπὸς γάρ ἐστιν ὀλίγων σταδίων ἰσθμὸς διὰ τῆς διώρυγος ἐπʼ αὐτὴν Κύμην καὶ τὴν πρὸς αὐτῇ θάλατταν. ἐμύθευον δʼ οἱ πρὸ ἡμῶν ἐν τῷ Ἀόρνῳ τὰ περὶ τὴν νέκυιαν τὴν Ὁμηρικήν· καὶ δὴ καὶ νεκυομαντεῖον ἱστοροῦσιν ἐνταῦθα γενέσθαι καὶ Ὀδυσσέα εἰς τοῦτʼ ἀφικέσθαι. ἔστι δʼ ὁ μὲν Ἄορνος κόλπος ἀγχιβαθὴς καὶ ἀρτίστομος, λιμένος καὶ μέγεθος καὶ φύσιν ἔχων, χρείαν δʼ οὐ παρεχόμενος λιμένος διὰ τὸ προκεῖσθαι τὸν Λοκρῖνον κόλπον προσβραχῆ καὶ πολύν. περικλείεται δʼ Ἄορνος ὀφρύσιν ὀρθίαις ὑπερκειμέναις πανταχόθεν πλὴν τοῦ εἴσπλου, νῦν μὲν ἡμέρως ἐκπεπονημέναις πρότερον δὲ συνηρεφέσιν ἀγρίᾳ ὕλῃ μεγαλοδένδρῳ καὶ ἀβάτῳ, αἳ κατὰ δεισιδαιμονίαν κατάσκιον ἐποίουν τὸν κόλπον. προσεμύθευον δʼ οἱ ἐπιχώριοι καὶ τοὺς ὄρνεις τοὺς ὑπερπετεῖς γινομένους καταπίπτειν εἰς τὸ ὕδωρ φθειρομένους ὑπὸ τῶν ἀναφερομένων ἀέρων, καθάπερ ἐν τοῖς Πλουτωνίοις. καὶ τοῦτο χωρίον Πλουτώνιόν τι ὑπελάμβανον καὶ τοὺς Κιμμερίους ἐνταῦθα λέγεσθαι· καὶ εἰσέπλεόν γε προθυσάμενοι καὶ ἱλασάμενοι τοὺς καταχθονίους δαίμονας, ὄντων τῶν ὑφηγουμένων τὰ τοιάδε ἱερέων ἠργολαβηκότων τὸν τόπον. ἔστι δὲ πηγή τις αὐτόθι ποτίμου ὕδατος ἐπὶ τῇ θαλάττῃ· τούτου δʼ ἀπείχοντο πάντες τὸ τῆς Στυγὸς ὕδωρ νομίσαντες· καὶ τὸ μαντεῖον ἐνταῦθά που ἵδρυται· τόν τε Πυριφλεγέθοντα ἐκ τῶν θερμῶν ὑδάτων ἐτεκμαίροντο τῶν πλησίον τῆς Ἀχερουσίας. Ἔφορος δὲ τοῖς Κιμμερίοις προσοικειῶν τὸν τόπον φησὶν αὐτοὺς ἐν καταγείοις οἰκίαις οἰκεῖν ἃς καλοῦσιν ἀργίλλας, καὶ διά τινων ὀρυγμάτων παρʼ ἀλλήλους τε φοιτᾶν καὶ τοὺς ξένους εἰς τὸ μαντεῖον δέχεσθαι πολὺ ὑπὸ γῆς ἱδρυμένον· ζῆν δʼ ἀπὸ μεταλλείας καὶ τῶν μαντευομένων, καὶ τοῦ βασιλέως ἀποδείξαντος αὐτοῖς συντάξεις. εἶναι δὲ τοῖς περὶ τὸ χρηστήριον ἔθος πάτριον μηδένα τὸν ἥλιον ὁρᾶν, ἀλλὰ τῆς νυκτὸς ἔξω πορεύεσθαι τῶν χασμάτων· καὶ διὰ τοῦτο τὸν ποιητὴν περὶ αὐτῶν εἰπεῖν ὡς ἄρα οὐδέ ποτʼ αὐτοὺς ἠέλιος φαέθων ἐπιδέρκεται. ὕστερον δὲ διαφθαρῆναι τοὺς ἀνθρώπους ὑπὸ βασιλέως τινός, οὐκ ἀποβάντος αὐτῷ τοῦ χρησμοῦ, τὸ δὲ μαντεῖον ἔτι συμμένειν μεθεστηκὸς εἰς ἕτερον τόπον. τοιαῦτα μὲν οἱ πρὸ ἡμῶν ἐμυθολόγουν, νυνὶ δὲ τῆς μὲν ὕλης τῆς περὶ τὸν Ἄορνον κοπείσης ὑπὸ Ἀγρίππα, τῶν δὲ χωρίων κατοικοδομηθέντων, ἀπὸ δὲ τοῦ Ἀόρνου διώρυγος ὑπονόμου τμηθείσης μέχρι Κύμης, ἅπαντʼ ἐκεῖνα ἐφάνη μῦθος, τοῦ Κοκκηίου τοῦ ποιήσαντος τὴν διώρυγα ἐκείνην τε καὶ ἐπὶ νέαν πόλιν ἐκ Δικαιαρχείας ἐπὶ ταῖς Βαίαις, ἐπακολουθήσαντός πως τῷ περὶ τῶν Κιμμερίων ἀρτίως λεχθέντι λόγῳ, τυχὸν ἴσως καὶ πάτριον νομίσαντος τῷ τόπῳ τούτῳ διʼ ὀρυγμάτων εἶναι τὰς ὁδούς.

Near to Cumae is the promontory of Misenum, and between them is the Acherusian Lake, which is a muddy estuary of the sea. Having doubled Misenum, you come to a harbour at the very foot of the promontory. After this the shore runs inland, forming a deeply indented bay, on which are Baïae and the hot springs, much used, both as a fashionable watering-place, and for the cure of diseases. Contiguous to Baïae is the Lucrine Lake, and within this the Lake Avernus, which converts into a peninsula the land stretching from the maritime district, situated between it and Cumae, as far as Cape Misenum, for there is only an isthmus of a few stadia, across which a subterraneous road is cut [from the head of the gulf of Avernus] to Cumae and the sea [shore] on which it stands. Former writers, mingling fable with history, have applied to Avernus the expressions of Homer in his Invocation of Departed Spirits, and relate that here formerly was an oracle of the dead, and that it was to this place that Ulysses came. However, this gulf of Avernus is deep even near the shore, with an excellent entrance, and is both as to its size and nature a harbour; but it is not used, on account of the Lucrine Gulf which lies before it, and is both large and somewhat shallow. The Avernus is surrounded with steep hills which encompass the whole of it, with the exception of the entrance. These hills, now so beautifully cultivated were formerly covered with wild forests, gigantic and impenetrable, which overshadowed the gulf, imparting a feeling of superstitious awe. The inhabitants affirm that birds, flying over the lake, fall into the water, being stifled by the vapours rising from it, a phenomenon of all Plutonian localities. They believed, in fact, that this place was a Plutonium, around which the Kimmerians used to dwell, and those who sailed into the place made sacrifice and propitiatory offerings to the infernal deities, as they were instructed by the priests who ministered at the place. There is here a spring of water near to the sea fit for drinking, from which, however, every one abstained, as they supposed it to be water from the Styx: [they thought likewise] that the oracle of the dead was situated some where here; and the hot springs near to the Acherusian Lake indicated the proximity of Pyriphlegethon. Ephorus, peopling this place with Kimmerii, tells us that they dwell in under-ground habitations, named by them Argillae, and that these communicate with one another by means of certain subterranean passages; and that they conduct strangers through them to the oracle, which is built far below the surface of the earth. They live on the mines together with the profits accruing from the oracle, and grants made to them by the king [of the country]. It was a traditional custom for the servants of the oracle never to behold the sun, and only to quit their caverns at night. It was on this account that the poet said, On them the Sun / Deigns not to look with his beam-darting eye. / At last, however, these men were exterminated by one of the kings, the oracle having deceived him; but [adds Ephorus] the oracle is still in existence, though removed to another place. Such were the myths related by our ancestors. But now that the wood surrounding the Avernus has been cut down by Agrippa, the lands built upon, and a subterranean passage cut from Avernus to Cumae, all these appear fables. Perhaps Cocceius, who made this subterranean passage, wished to follow the practice of the Kimmerians we have already described, or fancied that it was natural to this place that its roads should be made under-ground.

̔ο δὲ Λοκρῖνος κόλπος πλατύνεται μέχρι Βαιῶν, χώματι εἰργόμενος ἀπὸ τῆς ἔξω θαλάττης ὀκτασταδίῳ τὸ μῆκος, πλάτος δὲ ἁμαξιτοῦ πλατείας, ὅ φασιν Ἡρακλέα διαχῶσαι τὰς βοῦς ἐλαύνοντα τὰς Γηρυόνου· δεχόμενον δʼ ἐπιπολῆς τὸ κῦμα τοῖς χειμῶσιν ὥστε μὴ πεζεύεσθαι ῥᾳδίως Ἀγρίππας ἐπεσκεύασεν. εἴσπλουν δʼ ἔχει πλοίοις ἐλαφροῖς, ἐνορμίσασθαι μὲν ἄχρηστος, τῶν ὀστρέων δὲ θήραν ἔχων ἀφθονωτάτην. ἔνιοι δὲ τοῦτον αὐτὸν τὴν λίμνην εἶναι τὴν Ἀχερουσίαν φασίν, Ἀρτεμίδωρος δὲ αὐτὸν τὸν Ἄορνον. τὰς δὲ Βαίας ἐπωνύμους εἶναι λέγουσι Βαίου τῶν Ὀδυσσέως ἑταίρων τινός. ἑξῆς δʼ εἰσὶν αἱ περὶ Δικαιάρχειαν ἀκταὶ καὶ αὐτὴ ἡ πόλις. ἦν δὲ πρότερον μὲν ἐπίνειον Κυμαίων ἐπʼ ὀφρύος ἱδρυμένον, κατὰ δὲ τὴν Ἀννίβα στρατείαν συνῴκισαν Ῥωμαῖοι καὶ μετωνόμασαν Ποτιόλους ἀπὸ τῶν φρεάτων· οἱ δʼ ἀπὸ τῆς δυσωδίας τῶν ὑδάτων· ἅπαν τὸ χωρίον ἐκεῖ μέχρι Βαιῶν καὶ τῆς Κυμαίας θείου πλῆρές ἐστι καὶ πυρὸς καὶ θερμῶν ὑδάτων. τινὲς δὲ καὶ Φλέγραν διὰ τοῦτο τὴν Κυμαίαν νομίζουσι κληθῆναι, καὶ τῶν πεπτωκότων Γιγάντων τὰ κεραύνια τραύματα ἀναφέρειν τὰς τοιαύτας προχοὰς τοῦ πυρὸς καὶ τοῦ ὕδατος. ἡ δὲ πόλις ἐμπόριον γεγένηται μέγιστον, χειροποιήτους ἔχουσα ὅρμους διὰ τὴν εὐφυΐαν τῆς ἄμμου· σύμμετρος γάρ ἐστι τῇ τιτάνῳ καὶ κόλλησιν ἰσχυρὰν καὶ πῆξιν λαμβάνει. διόπερ τῇ χάλικι καταμίξαντες τὴν ἀμμοκονίαν προβάλλουσι χώματα εἰς τὴν θάλατταν, καὶ κολποῦσι τὰς ἀναπεπταμένας ᾐόνας ὥστʼ ἀσφαλῶς ἐνορμίζεσθαι τὰς μεγίστας ὁλκάδας. ὑπέρκειται δὲ τῆς πόλεως εὐθὺς ἡ τοῦ Ἡφαίστου ἀγορά, πεδίον περικεκλειμένον διαπύροις ὀφρύσι, καμινώδεις ἐχούσαις ἀναπνοὰς πολλαχοῦ καὶ βρωμώδεις ἱκανῶς· τὸ δὲ πεδίον θείου πλῆρές ἐστι συρτοῦ.

The Lucrine gulf extends in breadth as far as Baïae; it is separated from the sea by a bank eight stadia in length, and the breadth of a carriage-way; this they say was constructed by Hercules when he drove away the oxen of Geryon. But as the wave covered its surface in stormy weather, rendering it difficult to pass on foot, Agrippa has repaired it. Small vessels can put into it, but it is useless as a harbour. It contains abundant oyster-beds. Some take this to be the Acherusian Lake, while Artemidorus confounds it with Avernus. They say that Baïae took its name from Baius one of the companions of Ulysses, and Misenum from Misenus. Beyond is the strand and city of Dicaearchia. Formerly it was nothing but a naval station of the Cumaei. It was built on an eminence. But at the time of the war with Hannibal, the Romans established a colony there, and changed its name into Puteoli, [an appellation derived] from its wells; or, according to others, from the stench of its waters, the whole district from hence to Baïae and Cumae being full of sulphur, fire, and hot-springs. Some too are of opinion that it was on this account [that the country about] Cumae was named Phlegra, and that the fables of the giants struck down by thunderbolts owe their origin to these eruptions of fire and water. This city has become a place of extensive commerce, having artificially constructed harbours, which were much facilitated by the facile nature of the sand, which contains much gypsum, and will cement and consolidate thoroughly. For mixing this sand with chalk-stones they construct moles in the sea, thus forming bays along the open coast, in which the largest transport ships may safely ride. Immediately above the city lies the Forum-Vulcani, a plain surrounded with hills which seem to be on fire, having in many parts mouths emitting smoke, frequently accompanied by a terrible rumbling noise; the plain itself is full of drifted sulphur.

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English translation by H. C. Hamilton and W. Falconer (1854). Original text: August Meineke (ed.), Strabonis Geographica, 3 vols., Leipzig: Teubner, 1877 (Greek text as digitised by Perseus).

Greek text and translation from the Perseus Digital Library, Tufts University, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Perseus Digital Library); translation public domain. Introductions, summaries and notes © GreekMythology.com.