Strabo · Geography Γεωγραφικά

Strabo, Geography 5.3.11–13: Tibur, Praeneste, Nemi and Lake Fucinus

Strabo describes Tibur with its temple of Heracles (Hercules) and the Teverone falls, and Praeneste with its oracle and temple of Fortune and its fortified citadel. He passes to Tusculum and Mount Albanus, then the Artemisium at Nemus, a temple of Artemis (Diana) Taurica whose priest is a fugitive who has killed his predecessor, and the spring Egeria. He ends with Alba and the Marsi beside Lake Fucinus.

Sections 5.3.11–13 · 1025 words · click a number to copy its link

̔η Ὀυαλερία δʼ ἄρχεται μὲν ἀπὸ Τιβούρων, ἄγει δʼ ἐπὶ Μαρσοὺς καὶ Κορφίνιον τὴν τῶν Πελίγνων μητρόπολιν. εἰσὶ δʼ ἐν αὐτῇ Λατῖναι πόλεις Ὀυαρία τε καὶ Καρσέολοι καὶ Ἄλβα, πλησίον δὲ καὶ πόλις Κούκουλον. ἐν ὄψει δʼ εἰσὶ τοῖς ἐν Ῥώμῃ Τίβουρά τε καὶ Πραινεστὸς καὶ Τοῦσκλον. Τίβουρα μέν, ᾗ τὸ Ἡράκλειον καὶ ὁ καταράκτης, ὃν ποιεῖ πλωτὸς ὢν ὁ Ἀνίων ἀφʼ ὕψους μεγάλου καταπίπτων εἰς φάραγγα βαθεῖαν καὶ καταλσῆ πρὸς αὐτῇ τῇ πόλει. ἐντεῦθεν δὲ διέξεισι πεδίον εὐκαρπότατον παρὰ τὰ μέταλλα τοῦ λίθου τοῦ Τιβουρτίνου καὶ τοῦ ἐν Γαβίοις τοῦ καὶ ἐρυθροῦ λεγομένου, ὥστε τὴν ἐκ τῶν μετάλλων ἐξαγωγὴν καὶ τὴν πορθμείαν εὐμαρῆ τελέως εἶναι, τῶν πλείστων ἔργων τῆς Ῥώμης ἐντεῦθεν κατασκευαζομένων. ἐν δὲ τῷ πεδίῳ τούτῳ καὶ τὰ Ἄλβουλα καλούμενα ῥεῖ ὕδατα ψυχρὰ ἐκ πολλῶν πηγῶν, πρὸς ποικίλας νόσους καὶ πίνουσι καὶ ἐγκαθημένοις ὑγιεινά· τοιαῦτα δὲ καὶ τὰ Λαβανά, οὐκ ἄπωθεν τούτων ἐν τῇ Νωμεντανῇ καὶ τοῖς περὶ Ἠρητὸν τόποις. Πραινεστὸς δʼ ἐστὶν ὅπου τὸ τῆς Τύχης ἱερὸν ἐπίσημον χρηστηριάζον. ἀμφότεραι δʼ αἱ πόλεις αὗται τῇ αὐτῇ προσιδρυμέναι τυγχάνουσιν ὀρεινῇ, διέχουσι δʼ ἀλλήλων ὅσον σταδίους ἑκατόν, τῆς δὲ Ῥώμης Πραινεστὸς μὲν καὶ διπλάσιον, Τίβουρα δʼ ἔλαττον. φασὶ δʼ Ἑλληνίδας ἀμφοτέρας· Πραινεστὸν γοῦν Πολυστέφανον καλεῖσθαι πρότερον. ἐρυμνὴ μὲν οὖν ἑκατέρα, πολὺ δʼ ἐρυμνοτέρα Πραινεστός· ἄκραν γὰρ ἔχει τῆς μὲν πόλεως ὕπερθεν ὄρος ὑψηλόν, ὄπισθεν δʼ ἀπὸ τῆς συνεχούσης ὀρεινῆς αὐχένι διεζευγμένον, ὑπεραῖρον καὶ δυσὶ σταδίοις τούτου πρὸς ὀρθίαν ἀνάβασιν. πρὸς δὲ τῇ ἐρυμνότητι καὶ διώρυξι κρυπταῖς διατέτρηται πανταχόθεν μέχρι τῶν πεδίων ταῖς μὲν ὑδρείας χάριν ταῖς δʼ ἐξόδων λαθραίων, ὧν ἐν μιᾷ Μάριος πολιορκούμενος ἀπέθανε. ταῖς μὲν οὖν ἄλλαις πόλεσι πλεῖστον τὸ εὐερκὲς πρὸς ἀγαθοῦ τίθεται, Πραινεστίνοις δὲ συμφορὰ γεγένηται διὰ τὰς Ῥωμαίων στάσεις. καταφεύγουσι γὰρ ἐκεῖσε οἱ νεωτερίσαντες· ἐκπολιορκηθέντων δέ, πρὸς τῇ κακώσει τῆς πόλεως καὶ τὴν χώραν ἀπαλλοτριοῦσθαι συμβαίνει, τῆς αἰτίας μεταφερομένης ἐπὶ τοὺς ἀναιτίους. ῥεῖ δὲ διὰ τῆς χώρας Ὀυέρεστις ποταμός. πρὸς ἕω δὲ τῆς Ῥώμης εἰσὶν αἱ λεχθεῖσαι πόλεις.

The Via Valeria, commencing from Tibura, leads to the country of the Marsi, and to Corfinium, the metropolis of the Peligni. Upon it are situated the Latin cities of Valeria, Carseoli, Alba, and near to it the city of Cuculum. Within sight of Rome are Tibura, Praeneste, and Tusculum. At Tibura is a temple of Hercules, and a cataract formed by the fall of the Teverone (which is here navigable,) from a great height into a deep and wooded ravine close to the city. From thence the river flows through a highly fertile plain along by the Tiburtine stone-quarries, those of the Gabii, and those denominated the red-stone quarries. As both the carriage from the quarries and the conveyance by river are easy, most of the Roman edifices are built of materials from hence. In this plain flow the cold waters called Albula, they spring from numerous fountains, and are taken both as a beverage and as baths, for the cure of various diseases. Of the same kind are the Labanae, not far from these, on the Via Nomentana, and near to Eretum. At Praeneste is the celebrated temple and oracle of Fortune. Both this and the preceding city are situated on the same chain of mountains, and are distant from each other 100 stadia. Praeneste is 200 stadia from Rome, Tibura less than that distance. They are said to be both of Grecian foundation, Praeneste being formerly named Polystephanus. They are both fortified, but Praeneste is the stronger place of the two, having for its citadel a lofty mountain, which overhangs the town, and is divided at the back from the adjoining mountain range by a neck of land. This mountain is two stadia higher than the neck in direct altitude. In addition to these [natural] defences, the city is furnished on all sides with subterraneous passages, which extend to the plains, and some of which serve to convey water, while others form secret ways; it was in one of these that Marius perished, when he was besieged. Other cities are in most instances benefited by a strong position, but to the people of Praeneste it has proved a bane, owing to the civil wars of the Romans. For hither the revolutionary movers take refuge, and when at last they surrender, in addition to the injury sustained by the city during the war, the country is confiscated, and the guilt thus imputed to the guiltless. The river Verestis flows through this region. The said cities are to the east of Rome.

Ἐνδοτέρω δὲ τῆς κατʼ αὐτὰς ὀρεινῆς ἄλλη ῥάχις ἐστί, μεταξὺ αὐλῶνα καταλείπουσα τὸν κατὰ Ἄλγιδον, ὑψηλὴ μέχρι τοῦ Ἀλβανοῦ ὄρους. ἐπὶ ταύτης δὴ τὸ Τούσκουλον ἵδρυται πόλις οὐ φαύλως κατεσκευασμένη· κεκόσμηται δὲ ταῖς κύκλῳ φυτείαις καὶ οἰκοδομίαις, καὶ μάλιστα ταῖς ὑποπιπτούσαις ἐπὶ τὸ κατὰ τὴν Ῥώμην μέρος. τὸ γὰρ Τοῦσκλον ἐνταῦθα ἐστὶ λόφος εὔγεως καὶ εὔυδρος, κορυφούμενος ἠρέμα πολλαχοῦ καὶ δεχόμενος βασιλείων κατασκευὰς ἐκπρεπεστάτας. συνεχῆ δʼ ἐστὶ καὶ τὰ τῷ Ἀλβανῷ ὄρει ὑποπίπτοντα, τὴν αὐτήν τε ἀρετὴν ἔχοντα καὶ κατασκευήν. ἐφεξῆς δʼ ἐστὶ πεδία, τὰ μὲν πρὸς τὴν Ῥώμην συνάπτοντα καὶ τὰ προάστεια αὐτῆς, τὰ δὲ πρὸς τὴν θάλατταν· τὰ μὲν οὖν πρὸς τὴν θάλατταν ἧττόν ἐστιν ὑγιεινά, τὰ δὲ ἄλλα εὐάγωγά τε καὶ παραπλησίως ἐξησκημένα. μετὰ δὲ τὸ Ἀλβανὸν Ἀρικία ἐστὶ πόλις ἐπὶ τῇ ὁδῷ τῇ Ἀππίᾳ· στάδιοι δʼ εἰσὶν ἐκ τῆς Ῥώμης ἑκατὸν ἑξήκοντα· κοῖλος δʼ ἐστὶν ὁ τόπος, ἔχει δʼ ὅμως ἐρυμνὴν ἄκραν. ὑπέρκειται δʼ αὐτῆς τὸ μὲν Λανούιον, πόλις Ῥωμαίων, ἐν δεξιᾷ τῆς Ἀππίας ὁδοῦ, ἀφʼ ἧς ἔποπτος ἥ τε θάλαττά ἐστι καὶ τὸ Ἄντιον· τὸ δʼ Ἀρτεμίσιον, ὃ καλοῦσι νέμος, ἐκ τοῦ ἐν ἀριστερᾷ μέρους τῆς ὁδοῦ τοῖς ἐξ Ἀρικίας ἀναβαίνουσιν. τῆς δʼ Ἀρικίνης τὸ ἱερὸν λέγουσιν ἀφίδρυμά τι τῆς Ταυροπόλου· καὶ γάρ τι βαρβαρικὸν κρατεῖ καὶ Σκυθικὸν περὶ τὸ ἱερὸν ἔθος. καθίσταται γὰρ ἱερεὺς ὁ γενηθεὶς αὐτόχειρ τοῦ ἱερωμένου πρότερον δραπέτης ἀνήρ· ξιφήρης οὖν ἐστιν ἀεὶ περισκοπῶν τὰς ἐπιθέσεις, ἕτοιμος ἀμύνεσθαι. τὸ δʼ ἱερὸν ἐν ἄλσει, πρόκειται δὲ λίμνη πελαγίζουσα, κύκλῳ δʼ ὀρεινὴ συνεχὴς ὀφρὺς περίκειται καὶ λίαν ὑψηλὴ καὶ τὸ ἱερὸν καὶ τὸ ὕδωρ ἀπολαμβάνουσα ἐν κοίλῳ τόπῳ καὶ βαθεῖ. τὰς μὲν οὖν πηγὰς ὁρᾶν ἔστιν, ἐξ ὧν ἡ λίμνη πληροῦται· τούτων δʼ ἐστὶν ἡ Ἠγερία καλουμένη, δαίμονός τινος ἐπώνυμος· αἱ δʼ ἀπορρύσεις ἐνταῦθα μὲν ἄδηλοί εἰσιν, ἔξω δὲ δείκνυνται πόρρω πρὸς τὴν ἐπιφάνειαν ἀνέχουσαι.

But within-side the chain of mountains, [where these cities are situated,] there is another ridge, leaving a valley between it and Mount Algidus; it is lofty, and extends as far as Mount Albanus. It is on this ridge that Tusculum is situated, a city which is not wanting in adornment, being entirely surrounded by ornamental plantations and edifices, particularly that part of it which looks towards Rome. For on this side Tusculum presents a fertile hill, well irrigated, and with numerous gentle slopes embellished with majestic palaces. Contiguous are the undulating slopes of Mount Albanus, which are equally fertile and ornamented. Beyond are plains which extend some of them to Rome and its environs, others to the sea; these latter are unhealthy, but the others are salubrious and well cultivated. Next after Albanum is the city Aricia, on the Appian Way. It is 160 stadia from Rome. This place is situated in a hollow, and has a strong citadel. Beyond it on one side of the way is Lanuvium, a Roman city on the right of the Via Appia, and from which both the sea and Antium may be viewed. On the other side is the Artemisium, which is called Nemus, on the left side of the way, leading from Aricia to the temple. They say that it is consecrated to Diana Taurica, and certainly the rites performed in this temple are something barbarous and Scythic. They appoint as priest a fugitive who has murdered the preceding priest with his own hand. Apprehensive of an attack upon himself, the priest is always armed with a sword, ready for resistance. The temple is in a grove, and before it is a lake of considerable size. The temple and water are surrounded by abrupt and lofty precipices, so that they seem to be situated in a deep and hollow ravine. The springs by which the lake is filled are visible. One of these is denominated Egeria, after the name of a certain divinity; however, their course on leaving the lake is subterraneous, but they may be observed at some distance, when they rise to the surface of the ground.

πλησίον δʼ ἐστὶ τῶν χωρίων τούτων καὶ Ἀλβανὸν ὄρος πολὺ ὑπερκῦπτον τοῦ Ἀρτεμισίου καὶ τῶν περὶ αὐτὸ ὀφρύων, καίπερ ὑψηλῶν οὐσῶν καὶ ὀρθίων ἱκανῶς. ἔχει δὲ καὶ τοῦτο λίμνην πολὺ μείζω τῆς κατὰ τὸ Ἀρτεμίσιον. προσωτέρω δὲ τούτων αἱ λεχθεῖσαι πρότερον πόλεις τῆς Λατίνης εἰσί. μάλιστα δʼ ἐν μεσογαίᾳ τῶν Λατίνων πόλεων ἐστὶν ἡ Ἄλβα ὁμοροῦσα Μαρσοῖς· ἵδρυται δʼ ἐφʼ ὑψηλοῦ πάγου λίμνης Φουκίνας πλησίον, πελαγίας τὸ μέγεθος· χρῶνται δʼ αὐτῇ μάλιστα μὲν Μαρσοὶ καὶ πάντες οἱ πλησιόχωροι. φασὶ δʼ αὐτὴν καὶ πληροῦσθαί ποτε μέχρι τῆς ὀρεινῆς καὶ ταπεινοῦσθαι πάλιν ὥστʼ ἀναψύχειν τοὺς λιμνωθέντας τόπους καὶ γεωργεῖσθαι παρέχειν, εἴτε μεταστάσεις τῶν κατὰ βάθους ὑγρῶν σποράδην καὶ ἀδήλως γίνονται πάλιν δʼ ἐπισυρρέουσιν, ἢ τελέως ἐκλείπουσιν αἱ πηγαὶ καὶ πάλιν συνθλίβονται, καθάπερ ἐπὶ τοῦ Ἀμενάνου συμβαίνειν φασὶ τοῦ διὰ Κατάνης ῥέοντος· ἐκλείπει γὰρ ἐπὶ πολλὰ ἔτη καὶ πάλιν ῥεῖ. ἐκ δὲ τῆς Φουκίνας εἶναι τὰς πηγὰς ἱστοροῦσι τοῦ Μαρκίου ὕδατος τοῦ τὴν Ῥώμην ποτίζοντος καὶ παρὰ τἆλλα εὐδοκιμοῦντος ὕδατα. τῇ δὲ Ἄλβᾳ διὰ τὸ ἐν βάθει τῆς χώρας ἱδρῦσθαι καὶ διὰ τὸ εὐερκὲς ἀντὶ φρουρᾶς ἐχρήσαντο πολλάκις Ῥωμαῖοι, τοὺς φυλακῆς δεομένους ἐνταῦθα καθείργοντες.

Near to these localities is Mount Albanus, which is much higher than either the Artemisium or the heights surrounding it, although these are sufficiently lofty and precipitous. It has likewise a lake, much larger than that of the Artemisium. Further forward than these are the cities on the Via Latina, we have already mentioned. Alba is the most inland of all the Latin cities; it borders on the Marsi, and is situated on a high hill near to Lake Fucinus. This [lake] is vast as a sea, and is of great service to the Marsi and all the surrounding nations. They say, that at times its waters rise to the height of the mountains which surround it, and at others subside so much, that the places which had been covered with water reappear and may be cultivated; however, the subsidings of the waters occur irregularly and without previous warning, and are followed by their rising again; the springs fail altogether and gush out again after a time; as they say is the case with the Amenanus, which flows through Catana, for after remaining dry for a number of years, it again flows. It is reported that the Marcian water, which is drunk at Rome in preference to any other, has its source in [Lake] Fucinus. As Alba is situated in the depths of the country, and is besides a strong position, the Romans have often employed it as a place of security, for lodging important prisoners.

People and places in this passage

English translation by H. C. Hamilton and W. Falconer (1854). Original text: August Meineke (ed.), Strabonis Geographica, 3 vols., Leipzig: Teubner, 1877 (Greek text as digitised by Perseus).

Greek text and translation from the Perseus Digital Library, Tufts University, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Perseus Digital Library); translation public domain. Introductions, summaries and notes © GreekMythology.com.