τῆς δὲ συνεχοῦς τῷ ἱερῷ ἀκρωτηρίῳ παραλίας ἡ μὲν ἐστὶν ἀρχὴ τοῦ ἑσπερίου πλευροῦ τῆς Ἰβηρίας μέχρι τῆς ἐκβολῆς τοῦ Τάγου ποταμοῦ, ἡ δὲ τοῦ νοτίου μέχρι ἄλλου ποταμοῦ τοῦ Ἄνα καὶ τῆς ἐκβολῆς αὐτοῦ. φέρεται δʼ ἀπὸ τῶν ἑῴων μερῶν ἑκάτερος, ἀλλʼ ὁ μὲν ἐπʼ εὐθείας εἰς τὴν ἑσπέραν ἐκδίδωσι πολὺ μείζων ὢν θατέρου, ὁ δʼ Ἄνας πρὸς νότον ἐπιστρέφει τὴν μεσοποταμίαν ἀφορίζων, ἣν Κελτικοὶ νέμονται τὸ πλέον καὶ τῶν Λυσιτανῶν τινὲς ἐκ τῆς περαίας τοῦ Τάγου μετοικισθέντες ὑπὸ Ῥωμαίων· ἐν δὲ τοῖς ἄνω μέρεσι καὶ Καρπητανοὶ καὶ Ὠρητανοὶ καὶ Ὀυεττώνων συχνοὶ νέμονται. αὕτη μὲν οὖν ἡ χώρα μετρίως ἐστὶν εὐδαίμων, ἡ δʼ ἐφεξῆς πρὸς ἕω κειμένη καὶ νότον ὑπερβολὴν οὐκ ἀπολείπει πρὸς ἅπασαν κρινομένη τὴν οἰκουμένην ἀρετῆς χάριν καὶ τῶν ἐκ γῆς καὶ θαλάττης ἀγαθῶν. αὕτη δʼ ἐστὶν ἣν ὁ Βαῖτις διαρρεῖ ποταμός, ἀπὸ τῶν αὐτῶν μερῶν τὴν ἀρχὴν ἔχων ἀφʼ ὧνπερ καὶ ὁ Ἄνας καὶ ὁ Τάγος, μέσος πως ἀμφοῖν τούτων ὑπάρχων κατὰ μέγεθος· παραπλησίως μέντοι τῷ Ἄνᾳ κατʼ ἀρχὰς ἐπὶ τὴν ἑσπέραν ῥυεὶς εἶτʼ ἐπιστρέφει πρὸς νότον καὶ κατὰ τὴν αὐτὴν ἐκδίδωσι τούτῳ παραλίαν. καλοῦσι δʼ ἀπὸ μὲν τοῦ ποταμοῦ Βαιτικήν, ἀπὸ δὲ τῶν ἐνοικούντων Τουρδητανίαν· τοὺς δʼ ἐνοικοῦντας Τουρδητανούς τε καὶ Τουρδούλους προσαγορεύουσιν, οἱ μὲν τοὺς αὐτοὺς νομίζοντες οἱ δʼ ἑτέρους· ὧν ἐστι καὶ Πολύβιος συνοίκους φήσας τοῖς Τουρδητανοῖς πρὸς ἄρκτον τοὺς Τουρδούλους· νυνὶ δʼ ἐν αὐτοῖς οὐδεὶς φαίνεται διορισμός. σοφώτατοι δʼ ἐξετάζονται τῶν Ἰβήρων οὗτοι καὶ γραμματικῇ χρῶνται καὶ τῆς παλαιᾶς μνήμης ἔχουσι συγγράμματα καὶ ποιήματα καὶ νόμους ἐμμέτρους ἑξακισχιλίων ἐπῶν, ὥς φασι· καὶ οἱ ἄλλοι δʼ Ἴβηρες χρῶνται γραμματικῇ, οὐ μιᾷ δʼ ἰδέᾳ· οὐδὲ γὰρ γλώττῃ μιᾷ. τείνει δὲ ἡ χώρα αὕτη ἡ ἐντὸς τοῦ Ἄνα πρὸς ἕω μὲν μέχρι τῆς Ὠρητανίας, πρὸς νότον δὲ μέχρι τῆς παραλίας τῆς ἀπὸ τῶν ἐκβολῶν τοῦ Ἄνα μέχρι στηλῶν. ἀνάγκη δὲ διὰ πλειόνων περὶ αὐτῆς εἰπεῖν καὶ τῶν σύνεγγυς τόπων, ὅσα συντείνει πρὸς τὸ μαθεῖν τὴν εὐφυΐαν τῶν τόπων καὶ τὴν εὐδαιμονίαν.
The sea-coast next the Sacred Promontory forms on one side the commencement of the western coast of Spain as far as the outlet of the river Tagus; and on the other forms the southern coast as far as the outlet of another river, named the Guadiana. Both of these rivers descend from the eastern parts [of Spain]; but the former, which is much larger than the other, pursues a straight course towards the west, while the Guadiana bends its course towards the south. They enclose an extent of country peopled for the most part by Kelts and certain Lusitanians, whom the Romans caused to settle here from the opposite side of the Tagus. Higher up, the country is inhabited by the Carpetani, the Oretani, and a large number of Vettones. This district is moderately fertile, but that which is beyond it to the east and south, does not give place in superiority to any part of the habitable earth with which it may be compared, in the excellence of its productions both of land and sea. This is the country through which the river Guadalquiver flows. This river takes its rise from the same parts as the Guadiana and the Tagus, and is between these two in size. Like the Guadiana, the commencement of its course flows towards the west, but it afterwards turns to the south, and discharges itself at the same side of the coast as that river.
From this river the country has received the name of Baetica; it is called Turdetania by the inhabitants, who are themselves denominated Turdetani, and Turduli. Some think these two names refer to one nation, while others believe that they designate two distinct people. Of this latter opinion is Polybius, who imagines that the Turduli dwell more to the north than the Turdetani. At the present day however there does not appear to be any distinction between them. These people are esteemed to be the most intelligent of all the Iberians; they have an alphabet, and possess ancient writings, poems, and metrical laws six thousand years old, as they say. The other Iberians are likewise furnished with an alphabet, although not of the same form, nor do they speak the same language. Their country, which is on this side the Guadiana, extends eastward as far as Oretania, and southward along the sea-coast from the outlets of the Guadiana to the Pillars [of Hercules]. But it is necessary that I should enter into further particulars concerning this and the neighbouring places, in order to illustrate their excellence and fertility.
τῆς δὲ παραλίας ταύτης, εἰς ἣν ὅ τε Βαῖτις καὶ ὁ Ἄνας ἐκδίδωσι, καὶ τῶν ἐσχάτων τῆς Μαυρουσίας εἰς τὸ μεταξὺ ἐμπῖπτον τὸ Ἀτλαντικὸν πέλαγος ποιεῖ τὸν κατὰ στήλας πορθμόν, καθʼ ὃν ἡ ἐντὸς θάλαττα συνάπτει τῇ ἐκτός. ἐνταῦθα δὴ ὄρος ἐστὶ τῶν Ἰβήρων τῶν καλουμένων Βαστητανῶν, οὓς καὶ Βαστούλους καλοῦσιν, ἡ Κάλπη, τῇ περιοχῇ μὲν οὐ μέγα τῷ δʼ ὕψει μέγα καὶ ὄρθιον ὥστε πόρρωθεν νησοειδὲς φαίνεσθαι. ἐκπλέουσιν οὖν ἐκ τῆς ἡμετέρας θαλάττης εἰς τὴν ἔξω δεξιόν ἐστι τοῦτο, καὶ πρὸς αὐτὸ Καρτηία πόλις ἐν τετταράκοντα σταδίοις ἀξιόλογος καὶ παλαιά, ναύσταθμόν ποτε γενομένη τῶν Ἰβήρων. ἔνιοι δὲ καὶ Ἡρακλέους κτίσμα λέγουσιν αὐτήν, ὧν ἐστι καὶ Τιμοσθένης, ὅς φησι καὶ Ἡράκλειαν ὀνομάζεσθαι τὸ παλαιόν, δείκνυσθαί τε μέγαν περίβολον καὶ νεωσοίκους.
Between this coast, where the Guadalquiver and Guadiana discharge themselves, and the extremities of Maurusia, the Atlantic Ocean forms the strait at the Pillars [of Hercules] by which it is connected with the Mediterranean. Here is situated Calpe, the mountain of the Iberians who are denominated Bastetani, by others Bastuli. Its circumference is not large, but it is so high and steep as to resemble an island in the distance. Sailing from the Mediterranean into the Atlantic, it is left on the right hand. At a distance of 40 stadia from this [mountain] is the considerable and ancient city of Carteia, formerly a marine arsenal of the Iberians. Some assert that it was founded by Hercules; of this number is Timosthenes, who tells us it was anciently called Heraclaea, and that vast walls and ship-sheds are still shown.
εἶτα Μελλαρία ταριχείας ἔχουσα καὶ μετὰ ταῦτα Βελὼν πόλις καὶ ποταμός. ἐντεῦθεν οἱ διάπλοι μάλιστά εἰσιν εἰς Τίγγιν τῆς Μαυρουσίας καὶ ἐμπόρια καὶ ταριχεῖαι. ἦν δὲ καὶ Ζῆλις τῆς Τίγγιος ἀστυγείτων, ἀλλὰ μετῴκισαν ταύτην εἰς τὴν περαίαν Ῥωμαῖοι καὶ ἐκ τῆς Τίγγιος προσλαβόντες τινάς· ἔπεμψαν δὲ καὶ παρʼ ἑαυτῶν ἐποίκους καὶ ὠνόμασαν Ἰουλίαν Ἴοζαν τὴν πόλιν. εἶτα Γάδειρα, πορθμῷ στενῷ διειργομένη νῆσος ἀπὸ τῆς Τουρδητανίας, διέχουσα τῆς Κάλπης περὶ ἑπτακοσίους καὶ πεντήκοντα σταδίους· οἱ δὲ ὀκτακοσίους φασίν. ἔστι δʼ ἡ νῆσος αὕτη τἆλλα μὲν οὐδὲν διαφέρουσα τῶν ἄλλων, ἀνδρείᾳ δὲ τῶν ἐνοικούντων τῇ περὶ τὰς ναυτιλίας καὶ φιλίᾳ πρὸς Ῥωμαίους τοσαύτην ἐπίδοσιν εἰς πᾶσαν εὐτυχίαν ἔσχεν ὥστε καίπερ ἐσχάτη ἱδρυμένη τῆς γῆς ὀνομαστοτάτη τῶν ἁπασῶν ἐστιν. ἀλλὰ περὶ μὲν ταύτης ἐροῦμεν, ὅταν καὶ περὶ τῶν ἄλλων νήσων λέγωμεν.
Next to these is Mellaria, where they make salted provisions. After this the city and river of Belo. Here the merchandise and salted provisions for Tingis in Maurusia are principally shipped. There was a city named Zelis near to Tingis, but the Romans transferred it to the opposite coast [of Spain], and having placed there in addition some of the inhabitants of Tingis, and sent over also some of their own people, they then gave to the city the name of Julia Joza. Beyond this is Gadeira, an island separated from Turdetania by a narrow strait, and distant from Calpe about 750 stadia, or, as others say, 800. This island has nothing to distinguish it above others, but owing to the boldness of its people in their expeditions by sea, and their friendship with the Romans, has attained to that pitch of good fortune, that although situated at the farthest extremities of the earth, it possesses a greater celebrity than any other island. But we will describe it when we come to speak of the other islands.
Ἐφεξῆς δʼ ἐστὶν ὁ Μενεσθέως καλούμενος λιμὴν καὶ ἡ κατὰ Ἄσταν ἀνάχυσις καὶ Νάβρισσαν. λέγονται δὲ ἀναχύσεις αἱ πληρούμεναι τῇ θαλάττῃ κοιλάδες ἐν ταῖς πλημμυρίσι καὶ ποταμῶν δίκην ἀνάπλους εἰς τὴν μεσόγαιαν ἔχουσαι καὶ τὰς ἐπʼ αὐταῖς πόλεις. εἶτʼ εὐθὺς αἱ ἐκβολαὶ τοῦ Βαίτιος διχῆ σχιζόμεναι· ἡ δὲ ἀπολαμβανομένη νῆσος ὑπὸ τῶν στομάτων ἑκατόν, ὡς δʼ ἔνιοι καὶ πλειόνων σταδίων, ἀφορίζει παραλίαν. ἐνταῦθα δέ που καὶ τὸ μαντεῖον τοῦ Μενεσθέως ἐστί, καὶ ὁ τοῦ Καιπίωνος ἵδρυται πύργος ἐπὶ πέτρας ἀμφικλύστου, θαυμασίως κατεσκευασμένος, ὥσπερ ὁ Φάρος, τῆς τῶν πλοϊζομένων σωτηρίας χάριν. ἥ τε γὰρ ἐκβαλλομένη χοῦς ὑπὸ τοῦ ποταμοῦ βραχέα ποιεῖ καὶ χοιραδώδης ἐστὶν ὁ πρὸ αὐτοῦ τόπος, ὥστε δεῖ σημείου τινὸς ἐπιφανοῦς. ἐντεῦθεν δʼ ὁ τοῦ Βαίτιος ἀνάπλους ἐστὶ καὶ πόλις Ἐβοῦρα καὶ τὸ τῆς Φωσφόρου ἱερόν, ἣν καλοῦσι Λοῦκεμ δουβίαν· εἶθʼ οἱ τῶν ἀναχύσεων τῶν ἄλλων ἀνάπλοι, καὶ μετὰ ταῦτα ὁ Ἄνας ποταμός, δίστομος καὶ οὗτος, καὶ ὁ ἐξ αὐτῶν ἀνάπλους· εἶθʼ ὕστατον τὸ ἱερὸν ἀκρωτήριον, διέχον τῶν Γαδείρων ἐλάττους ἢ δισχιλίους σταδίους· τινὲς δʼ ἀπὸ μὲν τοῦ ἱεροῦ ἀκρωτηρίου ἐπὶ τὸ τοῦ Ἄνα στόμα ἑξήκοντα μίλιά φασιν, ἐντεῦθεν δʼ ἐπὶ τὸ τοῦ Βαίτιος στόμα ἑκατόν, εἶτα εἰς Γάδειρα ἑβδομήκοντα.
Next after [Cadiz] is the port of Menestheus, and the estuary near to Asta and Nebrissa. These estuaries are valleys filled by the sea during its flood-tides, up which you may sail into the interior, and to the cities built on them, in the same way as you sail up a river. Immediately after are the two outlets of the Guadalquiver. The island embraced by these mouths has a coast of a hundred stadia, or rather more according to others. Hereabouts is the Oracle of Menestheus, and the tower of Caepio, built upon a rock and washed on all sides by the sea. This is an admirable work, resembling the Pharos, and constructed for the safety of vessels. For the mud carried out by the river forms shallows, and sunken rocks are also scattered before it, so that a beacon was greatly needed. Thence sailing up the river is the city of Ebura and the temple of Phosphorus, which they call Lux Dubia. You then pass up the other estuaries; and after these the river Guadiana, which has also two mouths, up either of which you may sail. Lastly, beyond is the Sacred Promontory, distant from Gadeira less than 2000 stadia. Some say that from the Sacred Promontory to the mouth of the Guadiana there are 60 miles; thence to the mouth of the Guadalquiver 100; and from this latter place to Gadeira 70.
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