Pausanias · Description of Greece Ἑλλάδος Περιήγησις

Pausanias, Description of Greece 7.22.1–11: Pharae and Tritia: the oracle of Hermes and the road to Aegium

Pausanias describes Pharae, annexed to Patrae by Augustus, with its plane-tree grove and its market-place oracle of Hermes, where the enquirer whispers a question into the god's ear and takes the first words he hears as the answer. He mentions the thirty square stones revered as gods and the grove of the Dioscuri. He then describes Tritia, with its painted tomb by Nicias and its sanctuary of the Greatest Gods, and gives the coastal distances from Patrae to Aegium, with the river Charadrus whose water makes flocks bear males.

Sections 7.22.1–11 · 896 words · click a number to copy its link

Φαραὶ δέ, Ἀχαιῶν πόλις, τελοῦσι μὲν ἐς Πάτρας δόντος Αὐγούστου, ὁδὸς δὲ ἐς Φαρὰς Πατρέων μὲν ἐκ τοῦ ἄστεως στάδιοι πεντήκοντά εἰσι καὶ ἑκατόν, ἀπὸ θαλάσσης δὲ ἄνω πρὸς ἤπειρον περὶ ἑβδομήκοντα. ποταμὸς δὲ ῥεῖ πλησίον Φαρῶν Πίερος, ὁ αὐτὸς ἐμοὶ δοκεῖν ὃς καὶ τὰ Ὠλένου παρέξεισιν ἐρείπια, ὑπὸ ἀνθρώπων τῶν πρὸς θαλάσσῃ καλούμενος Πεῖρος. πρὸς δὲ τῷ ποταμῷ πλατάνων ἐστὶν ἄλσος, κοῖλαί τε ὑπὸ παλαιότητος αἱ πολλαὶ καὶ ἥκουσαι μεγέθους ἐς τοσοῦτο ὥστε καὶ ἑστιῶνται τῶν χηραμῶν ἐντός, καὶ ὁπόσοις ἂν κατὰ γνώμην ᾖ, καὶ ἐγκαθεύδουσι.

περίβολος δὲ ἀγορᾶς μέγας κατὰ τρόπον τὸν ἀρχαιότερόν ἐστιν ἐν Φαραῖς, Ἑρμοῦ δὲ ἐν μέσῃ τῇ ἀγορᾷ λίθου πεποιημένον ἄγαλμα ἔχον καὶ γένεια· ἑστηκὼς δὲ πρὸς αὐτῇ τῇ γῇ παρέχεται μὲν τὸ τετράγωνον σχῆμα, μεγέθει δέ ἐστιν οὐ μέγας. καὶ αὐτῷ καὶ ἐπίγραμμα ἔπεστιν, ἀναθεῖναι αὐτὸ Μεσσήνιον Σιμύλον· καλεῖται μὲν δὴ Ἀγοραῖος, παρὰ δὲ αὐτῷ καὶ χρηστήριον καθέστηκε. κεῖται δὲ πρὸ τοῦ ἀγάλματος ἑστία, λίθου καὶ αὐτή, μολίβδῳ δὲ πρὸς τὴν ἑστίαν προσέχονται λύχνοι χαλκοῖ.

ἀφικόμενος οὖν περὶ ἑσπέραν ὁ τῷ θεῷ χρώμενος λιβανωτόν τε ἐπὶ τῆς ἑστίας θυμιᾷ καὶ ἐμπλήσας τοὺς λύχνους ἐλαίου καὶ ἐξάψας τίθησιν ἐπὶ τὸν βωμὸν τοῦ ἀγάλματος ἐν δεξιᾷ νόμισμα ἐπιχώριον— καλεῖται δὲ χαλκοῦς τὸ νόμισμα—καὶ ἐρωτᾷ πρὸς τὸ οὖς τὸν θεὸν ὁποῖόν τι καὶ ἑκάστῳ τὸ ἐρώτημά ἐστι. τὸ ἀπὸ τούτου δὲ ἄπεισιν ἐκ τῆς ἀγορᾶς ἐπιφραξάμενος τὰ ὦτα· προελθὼν δὲ ἐς τὸ ἐκτὸς τὰς χεῖρας ἀπέσχεν ἀπὸ τῶν ὤτων, καὶ ἧστινος ἂν ἐπακούσῃ φωνῆς, μάντευμα ἡγεῖται.

τοιαύτη καὶ Αἰγυπτίοις ἑτέρα περὶ τοῦ Ἄπιδος τὸ ἱερὸν μαντεία καθέστηκεν· ἐν Φαραῖς δὲ καὶ ὕδωρ ἱερόν ἐστι τοῦ Ἑρμοῦ· Ἑρμοῦ νᾶμα μὲν τῇ πηγῇ τὸ ὄνομα, τοὺς δὲ ἰχθῦς οὐχ αἱροῦσιν ἐξ αὐτῆς, ἀνάθημα εἶναι τοῦ θεοῦ νομίζοντες. ἑστήκασι δὲ ἐγγύτατα τοῦ ἀγάλματος τετράγωνοι λίθοι τριάκοντα μάλιστα ἀριθμόν· τούτους σέβουσιν οἱ Φαρεῖς, ἑκάστῳ θεοῦ τινὸς ὄνομα ἐπιλέγοντες. τὰ δὲ ἔτι παλαιότερα καὶ τοῖς πᾶσιν Ἕλλησι τιμὰς θεῶν ἀντὶ ἀγαλμάτων εἶχον ἀργοὶ λίθοι.

Φαρεῦσι δὲ ὅσον πέντε σταδίους καὶ δέκα ἀπωτέρω τῆς πόλεώς ἐστιν ἄλσος Διοσκούρων. δάφναι μάλιστα ἐν αὐτῷ πεφύκασι, ναὸς δὲ οὐκ ἦν ἐν αὐτῷ οὐδὲ ἀγάλματα· κομισθῆναι δὲ οἱ ἐπιχώριοί φασιν ἐς Ῥώμην τὰ ἀγάλματα. ἐν Φαραῖς δὲ ἐν τῷ ἄλσει βωμὸς λίθων λογάδων ἐστί. πυθέσθαι δὲ οὐκ εἶχον εἰ Φάρης ὁ Φυλοδαμείας τῆς Δαναοῦ σφισιν ἢ ὁμώνυμος ἐκείνῳ τις ἐγένετο οἰκιστής.

Τρίτεια δέ, Ἀχαιῶν καὶ αὕτη πόλις, ἐν μεσογαίῳ μὲν ᾤκισται, τελοῦσι δὲ ἐς Πάτρας καὶ αὐτοὶ βασιλέως δόντος· στάδιοι δὲ ἐς Τρίτειαν εἴκοσί τε καὶ ἑκατόν εἰσιν ἐκ Φαρῶν. πρὶν δὲ ἢ ἐς τὴν πόλιν ἐσελθεῖν, μνῆμά ἐστι λευκοῦ λίθου, θέας καὶ ἐς τὰ ἄλλα ἄξιον καὶ οὐχ ἥκιστα ἐπὶ ταῖς γραφαῖς αἵ εἰσιν ἐπὶ τοῦ τάφου, τέχνη Νικίου· θρόνος τε ἐλέφαντος καὶ γυνὴ νέα καὶ εἴδους εὖ ἔχουσα ἐπὶ τῷ θρόνῳ, θεράπαινα δὲ αὐτῇ προσέστηκε σκιάδιον φέρουσα·

καὶ νεανίσκος ὀρθὸς οὐκ ἔχων πω γένειά ἐστι χιτῶνα ἐνδεδυκὼς καὶ χλαμύδα ἐπὶ τῷ χιτῶνι φοινικῆν· παρὰ δὲ αὐτὸν οἰκέτης ἀκόντια ἔχων ἐστὶ καὶ ἄγει κύνας ἐπιτηδείας θηρεύουσιν ἀνθρώποις. πυθέσθαι μὲν δὴ τὰ ὀνόματα αὐτῶν οὐκ εἴχομεν· ταφῆναι δὲ ἄνδρα καὶ γυναῖκα ἐν κοινῷ παρίστατο ἅπασιν εἰκάζειν.

Τριτείας δὲ οἰκιστὴν οἱ μὲν Κελβίδαν γενέσθαι λέγουσιν, ἀφικόμενον ἐκ Κύμης τῆς ἐν Ὀπικοῖς· οἱ δὲ ὡς Ἄρης συγγένοιτο Τριτείᾳ θυγατρὶ Τρίτωνος, ἱερᾶσθαι δὲ τῆς Ἀθηνᾶς τὴν παρθένον, Μελάνιππον δὲ παῖδα Ἄρεως καὶ Τριτείας οἰκίσαι τε ὡς ηὐξήθη τὴν πόλιν καὶ θέσθαι τὸ ὄνομα ἀπὸ τῆς μητρός.

ἐν Τριτείᾳ δὲ ἔστι μὲν ἱερὸν καλουμένων Μεγίστων θεῶν, ἀγάλματα δέ σφισι πηλοῦ πεποιημένα· τούτοις κατὰ ἔτος ἑορτὴν ἄγουσιν, οὐδέν τι ἀλλοίως ἢ καὶ τῷ Διονύσῳ δρῶσιν Ἕλληνες. ἔστι δὲ καὶ Ἀθηνᾶς ναός, τὸ δὲ ἄγαλμα λίθου τὸ ἐφʼ ἡμῶν· τὸ δὲ ἀρχαῖον ἐς Ῥώμην, καθὰ οἱ Τριταιεῖς λέγουσιν, ἐκομίσθη. θύειν δὲ οἱ ἐνταῦθα καὶ Ἄρει καὶ τῇ Τριτείᾳ νομίζουσιν.

αἵδε μὲν οὖν θαλάσσης τέ εἰσιν ἀπωτέρω πόλεις καὶ ἠπειρώτιδες βεβαίως· πλέοντι δὲ ἐς Αἴγιον ἐκ Πατρῶν ἄκρα πρῶτόν ἐστιν ὀνομαζομένη Ῥίον, σταδίους Πατρῶν πεντήκοντα ἀπέχουσα, λιμὴν δὲ ὁ Πάνορμος σταδίοις πέντε καὶ δέκα ἀπωτέρω τῆς ἄκρας. τοσούτους δὲ ἀφέστηκεν ἑτέρους ἀπὸ Πανόρμου τὸ Ἀθηνᾶς καλούμενον τεῖχος. ἐς δὲ λιμένα Ἐρινεὸν ἐξ Ἀθηνᾶς τείχους παράπλους ἐνενήκοντά εἰσι στάδιοι, ἑξήκοντα δὲ ἐς Αἴγιον ἀπὸ τοῦ Ἐρινεοῦ· ὁδὸς δὲ ἡ πεζὴ σταδίους τεσσαράκοντα μάλιστα ἐς τὸν ἀριθμὸν ἀποδεῖ τὸν εἰρημένον.

οὐ πόρρω δὲ τοῦ Πατρέων ἄστεως ποταμός τε ὁ Μείλιχος καὶ τὸ ἱερὸν τῆς Τρικλαρίας ἐστίν, ἄγαλμα οὐδὲν ἔτι ἔχον. τοῦτο μὲν δή ἐστιν ἐν δεξιᾷ, προελθόντι δὲ ἀπὸ τοῦ Μειλίχου ποταμός ἐστιν ἄλλος· ὄνομα μὲν τῷ ποταμῷ Χάραδρος, ὥρᾳ δὲ ἦρος πίνοντα ἐξ αὐτοῦ τὰ βοσκήματα ὀφείλει τίκτειν ἄρρενα ὡς τὰ πλείω συμβαίνει, καὶ τοῦδε ἕνεκα οἱ νομεῖς ἑτέρωσε αὐτὰ τῆς χώρας μεθιστᾶσι πλήν γε δὴ τὰς βοῦς· ταύτας δὲ αὐτοῦ καταλείπουσιν ἐπὶ τῷ ποταμῷ, διότι καὶ πρὸς θυσίας οἱ ταῦροί σφισι καὶ ἐς τὰ ἔργα ἐπιτηδειότεροι θηλειῶν βοῶν εἰσιν, ἐπὶ δὲ τοῖς ἄλλοις κτήνεσι τὸ θῆλυ ἐπὶ πλέον τετίμηται.

Pharae, an Achaean city, belongs to Patrae, to which it was annexed by Augustus. The road from Patrae to Pharae is one hundred and fifty furlongs: the city lies about seventy furlongs inland from the sea. Near Pharae flows a river Pierus. I suppose it is the same river which flows past the ruins of Olenus, and is called Pirus by the people of the coast. Beside the river is a grove of plane-trees, most of which are hollow with age, and so big that people picnic in their hollow trunks, ay, and sleep there too if they have a mind. 2. The market-place at Pharae is spacious and in the old style. In the middle of it is a stone image of Hermes with a beard: it stands on the ground, and is of the square shape, but of no great size. An inscription on it states that it was dedicated by Simylus, a Messenian. It is called the Market God, and beside it an oracle is established. In front of the image is a hearth made of stone, with bronze lamps clamped to it with lead. He who would inquire of the god comes at evening and burns incense on the hearth, fills the lamps with oil, lights them, lays a coin of the country called a copper on the altar to the right of the image, and whispers his question, whatever it may be, into the ear of the god. Then he stops his ears and leaves the market-place ; and when he is gone a little way outside, he takes his hands from his ears, and whatever words he hears he regards as an oracle. The Egyptians have a similar mode of divination at the sanctuary of Apis. At Pharae there is also a sacred water: the spring is named the stream of Hermes, and they do not catch the fish in it because they esteem them sacred to the god.

Close to the image stand about thirty square stones: these the people of Pharae revere, giving to each stone the name of a god. In the olden time all the Greeks worshipped unwrought stones instead of images. About fifteen furlongs from the city there is a grove of the Dioscuri. The trees are mostly laurels: there is no temple in it, nor any images: the natives say that the images were taken to Rome. In the grove is an altar of unhewn stones. I could not ascertain whether the founder of Pharae was Phares, son of Phylodamia, daughter of Danaus, or some one else of the same name. 4. Tritia, another Achaean city, lies inland, but belongs to Patrae, to which it too was assigned by the emperor. It is a hundred and twenty furlongs from Pharae. Before you enter the city there is a tomb of white marble, which is worth seeing, especially for its paintings, which are by Nicias. An ivory chair is seen with a comely young woman seated on it: at her side stands a maidservant with a parasol. A young and beardless man stands erect, wearing a tunic with a purple robe over it: beside him is a servant with darts, who is leading some hunting dogs. I could not learn their names; but any one could guess that a husband and wife are here buried together.

Some say that the founder of Tritia was Celbidas, who came from Cumae in the land of the Opici. Others say that Ares had connection with a virgin priestess of Athena, named Tritia, a daughter of Triton, and that from their union sprang Melanippus, who when he was grown up founded the city and named it after his mother.

In Tritia there is a sanctuary of the Gods called Greatest. Their images are made of clay. Every year the people celebrate a festival in their honour, just like the festival that the Greeks hold in honour of Dionysus. There is also a temple of Athena: the present image is of stone ; but the ancient image, the people of Tritia say, was carried to Rome. The people here are wont to sacrifice both to Ares and to Tritia. 7. These cities are at some distance from the sea, and are thoroughly inland. But sailing from Patrae to Aegium, the first cape you pass is named Rhium, fifty furlongs from Patrae. Fifteen furlongs from the cape is the harbour of Panormus, and from Panormus it is another fifteen to the so-called Fort of Athena. From the Fort of Athena it is a sail of ninety furlongs along the coast to the harbour of Erineus, and from Erineus to Aegium it is sixty furlongs. But the road by land is about forty furlongs shorter than the route I have described. Not far from the city of Patrae is the river Milichus, and the sanctuary of the goddess Triclaria, which no longer contains an image. The sanctuary is on the right. Beyond the Milichus you come to another river named the Charadrus. The flocks and herds that drink of this river in spring usually bring forth males, and therefore the herdsmen remove them to another part of the country, all except the cows, which they leave at the river, because bulls are more suited than cows for sacrifices and for field labour ; but in the case of other live stock the female is preferred.

People and places in this passage

English translation by Sir James George Frazer (1898). Original text: Friedrich Spiro (ed.), Pausaniae Graeciae descriptio, 3 vols., Leipzig: Teubner, 1903 (Greek text as digitised by Perseus).

Greek text and translation from the Perseus Digital Library, Tufts University, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Perseus Digital Library, Greek text); translation public domain (OCR from the Internet Archive scan). Introductions, summaries and notes © GreekMythology.com.