Strabo · Geography Γεωγραφικά

Strabo, Geography 10.2.1–6: Aetolia and Acarnania: the Achelous and Calydon

Strabo sets out the borders of Aetolia and Acarnania along the river Achelous and lists their cities, among them Calydon and Pleuron. He describes the mountains and the river Evenus, where Heracles (Hercules) was said to have killed the ferryman Nessus for attacking Deianeira. He also sorts out the Aetolian cities that Homer names.

Sections 10.2.1–6 · 780 words · click a number to copy its link

Αἰτωλοὶ μὲν τοίνυν καὶ Ἀκαρνᾶνες ὁμοροῦσιν ἀλλήλοις, μέσον ἔχοντες τὸν Ἀχελῶον ποταμὸν ῥέοντα ἀπὸ τῶν ἄρκτων καὶ τῆς Πίνδου πρὸς νότον διά τε Ἀγραίων Αἰτωλικοῦ ἔθνους καὶ Ἀμφιλόχων, Ἀκαρνᾶνες μὲν τὸ πρὸς ἑσπέραν μέρος ἔχοντες τοῦ ποταμοῦ μέχρι τοῦ Ἀμβρακικοῦ κόλπου τοῦ κατὰ Ἀμφιλόχους καὶ τὸ ἱερὸν τοῦ Ἀκτίου Ἀπόλλωνος, Αἰτωλοὶ δὲ τὸ πρὸς ἕω μέχρι τῶν Ὀζολῶν Λοκρῶν καὶ τοῦ Παρνασσοῦ καὶ τῶν Οἰταίων. ὑπέρκεινται δʼ ἐν τῇ μεσογαίᾳ καὶ τοῖς προσβορείοις μέρεσι τῶν μὲν Ἀκαρνάνων Ἀμφίλοχοι, τούτων δὲ Δόλοπες καὶ ἡ Πίνδος, τῶν δʼ Αἰτωλῶν Περραιβοί τε καὶ Ἀθαμᾶνες καὶ Αἰνιάνων τι μέρος τῶν τὴν Οἴτην ἐχόντων· τὸ δὲ νότιον πλευρόν, τό τε Ἀκαρνανικὸν ὁμοίως καὶ τὸ Αἰτωλικόν, κλύζεται τῇ ποιούσῃ θαλάττῃ τὸν Κορινθιακὸν κόλπον, εἰς ὃν καὶ ὁ Ἀχελῶος ποταμὸς ἐξίησιν, ὁρίζων τὴν τῶν Αἰτωλῶν παραλίαν καὶ τὴν Ἀκαρνανικήν· ἐκαλεῖτο δὲ Θόας ὁ Ἀχελῶος πρότερον. ἔστι δὲ καὶ ὁ παρὰ Δύμην ὁμώνυμος τούτῳ, καθάπερ εἴρηται, καὶ ὁ περὶ Λάμιαν. εἴρηται δὲ καὶ ὅτι ἀρχὴν τοῦ Κορινθιακοῦ κόλπου τὸ στόμα τοῦδε τοῦ ποταμοῦ φασι.

AETOLIANS and Acarnanians border on one another, having between them the river Achelous, which flows from the north, and from Pindus towards the south, through the country of the Agraei, an Aetolian tribe, and of the Amphilochians.

Acarnanians occupy the western side of the river as far as the Ambracian Gulf, opposite to the Amphilochians, and the temple of Apollo Actius. Aetolians occupy the part towards the east as far as the Locri Ozolae, Parnassus, and the Oetaeans.

Amphilochians are situated above the Acarnanians in the interior towards the north; above the Amphilochians are situated Dolopes, and Mount Pindus; above the Aetolians are Perrhaebi, Athamanes, and a body of the Aenianes who occupy Oeta.

The southern side, as well the Acarnanian as the Aetolian, is washed by the sea, forming the Corinthian Gulf, into which the Achelous empties itself. This river (at its mouth) is the boundary of the Aetolian and the Acarnanian coast. The Achelous was formerly called Thoas. There is a river of this name near Dyme, as we have said, and another near Lamia. We have also said, that the mouth of this river is considered by some writers as the commencement of the Corinthian Gulf.

πόλεις δʼ εἰσὶν ἐν μὲν τοῖς Ἀκαρνᾶσιν Ἀνακτόριόν τε ἐπὶ χερρονήσου ἱδρυμένον Ἀκτίου πλησίον, ἐμπόριον τῆς νῦν ἐκτισμένης ἐφʼ ἡμῶν Νικοπόλεως, καὶ Στράτος, ἀνάπλουν ἔχουσα τῷ Ἀχελώῳ πλειόνων ἢ διακοσίων σταδίων, καὶ Οἰνειάδαι, καὶ αὐτὴ ἐπὶ τῷ ποταμῷ, ἡ μὲν παλαιὰ οὐ κατοικουμένη, ἴσον ἀπέχουσα τῆς τε θαλάττης καὶ τοῦ Στράτου, ἡ δὲ νῦν ὅσον ἑβδομήκοντα σταδίους ὑπὲρ τῆς ἐκβολῆς διέχουσα· καὶ ἄλλαι δʼ εἰσί, Πάλαιρός τε καὶ Ἀλυζία καὶ Λευκὰς καὶ Ἄργος τὸ Ἀμφιλοχικὸν καὶ Ἀμβρακία, ὧν αἱ πλεῖσται περιοικίδες γεγόνασιν ἢ καὶ πᾶσαι τῆς Νικοπόλεως· κεῖται δʼ ὁ Στράτος κατὰ μέσην τὴν ἐξ Ἀλυζίας ὁδὸν εἰς Ἀνακτόριον.

The cities of the Acarnanians are, Anactorium, situated upon a peninsula near Actium, and a mart of Nicopolis, which has been built in our time; Stratus, to which vessels sail up the Achelous, a distance of more than 200 stadia; and Oeniadae is also on the banks of the river. The ancient city is not inhabited, and lies at an equal distance from the sea and from Stratus. The present city is at the distance of 70 stadia above the mouth of the river.

There are also other cities, Palaerus, Alyzia, Leucas, the Amphilochian Argos, and Ambracia: most of these, if not all, are dependent upon Nicopolis.

Stratus lies half-way between Alyzia and Anactorium.

Αἰτωλῶν δʼ εἰσὶ Καλυδών τε καὶ Πλευρών, νῦν μὲν τεταπεινωμέναι, τὸ δὲ παλαιὸν πρόσχημα τῆς Ἑλλάδος ἦν ταῦτα τὰ κτίσματα. καὶ δὴ καὶ διῃρῆσθαι συνέβαινε δίχα τὴν Αἰτωλίαν, καὶ τὴν μὲν ἀρχαίαν λέγεσθαι τὴν δʼ ἐπίκτητον· ἀρχαίαν μὲν τὴν ἀπὸ τοῦ Ἀχελώου μέχρι Καλυδῶνος παραλίαν ἐπὶ πολὺ καὶ τῆς μεσογαίας ἀνήκουσαν εὐκάρπου τε καὶ πεδιάδος, ᾗ ἐστὶ καὶ Στράτος καὶ τὸ Τριχώνιον ἀρίστην ἔχον γῆν· ἐπίκτητον δὲ τὴν τοῖς Λοκροῖς συνάπτουσαν ὡς ἐπὶ Ναύπακτόν τε καὶ Εὐπάλιον, τραχυτέραν τε οὖσαν καὶ λυπροτέραν, μέχρι τῆς Οἰταίας καὶ τῆς Ἀθαμάνων καὶ τῶν ἐφεξῆς ἐπὶ τὴν ἄρκτον ἤδη περιισταμένων ὀρῶν τε καὶ ἐθνῶν.

To the Aetolians belong both Calydon and Pleuron, which at present are in a reduced condition, but, anciently, these settlements were an ornament to Greece.

Aetolia was divided into two portions, one called the Old, the other the Epictetus (the Acquired). The Old comprised the sea-coast from the Achelous as far as Calydon, extending far into the inland parts, which are fertile, and consist of plains. Here are situated Stratus and Trichonium, which has an excellent soil. The Epictetus, that reaches close to the Locri in the direction of Naupactus and Eupalium, is a rugged and sterile tract, extending as far as Oetaea, to the territory of the Athamanes, and the mountains and nations following next in order, and which lie around towards the north.

ἔχει δὲ καὶ ἡ Αἰτωλία ὄρος μέγιστον μὲν τὸν Κόρακα, συνάπτοντα τῇ Οἴτῃ, τῶν δʼ ἄλλων ἐν μέσῳ μὲν μᾶλλον τὸν Ἀράκυνθον, περὶ ὃν τὴν νεωτέραν Πλευρῶνα συνῴκισαν ἀφέντες τὴν παλαιὰν ἐγγὺς κειμένην Καλυδῶνος οἱ οἰκήτορες, εὔκαρπον οὖσαν καὶ πεδιάδα, πορθοῦντος τὴν χώραν Δημητρίου τοῦ ἐπικληθέντος Αἰτωλικοῦ· ὑπὲρ δὲ τῆς Μολυκρείας Ταφιασσὸν καὶ Χαλκίδα, ὄρη ἱκανῶς ὑψηλά, ἐφʼ οἷς πολίχνια ἵδρυτο Μακυνία τε καὶ Χαλκίς, ὁμώνυμος τῷ ὄρει, ἣν καὶ Ὑποχαλκίδα καλοῦσι· Κούριον δὲ πλησίον τῆς παλαιᾶς Πλευρῶνος, ἀφʼ οὗ τοὺς Πλευρωνίους Κουρῆτας ὀνομασθῆναί τινες ὑπέλαβον.

There is in Aetolia a very large mountain, the Corax, which is contiguous to Oeta. Among the other mountains, more in the middle of the country, is the Aracynthus, near which the founders built the modern Pleuron, having abandoned the ancient city situated near Calydon, which was in a fertile plain country, when Demetrius, surnamed Aetolicus, laid waste the district.

Above Molycreia are Taphiassus and Chalcis, mountains of considerable height, on which are situated the small cities, Macynia and Chalcis, (having the same name as the mountain,) or, as it is also called, Hypochalcis. Mount Curium is near the ancient Pleuron, from which some supposed the Pleuronii had the appellation of Curetes.

ὁ δʼ Εὔηνος ποταμὸς ἄρχεται μὲν ἐκ Βωμιέων τῶν ἐν Ὀφιεῦσιν Αἰτωλικῷ ἔθνει (καθάπερ καὶ οἱ Εὐρυτᾶνες καὶ Ἀγραῖοι καὶ Κουρῆτες καὶ ἄλλοι), ῥεῖ δʼ οὐ διὰ τῆς Κουρητικῆς κατʼ ἀρχάς, ἥτις ἐστὶν ἡ αὐτὴ τῇ Πλευρωνίᾳ, ἀλλὰ διὰ τῆς προσεῴας μᾶλλον παρὰ τὴν Χαλκίδα καὶ Καλυδῶνα· εἶτʼ ἀνακάμψας ἐπὶ τὰ τῆς Πλευρῶνος πεδία τῆς παλαιᾶς καὶ παραλλάξας εἰς δύσιν ἐπιστρέφει πρὸς τὰς ἐκβολὰς καὶ τὴν μεσημβρίαν· ἐκαλεῖτο δὲ Λυκόρμας πρότερον· καὶ ὁ Νέσσος ἐνταῦθα λέγεται πορθμεὺς ἀποδεδειγμένος ὑφʼ Ἡρακλέους ἀποθανεῖν, ἐπειδὴ πορθμεύων τὴν Δηιάνειραν ἐπεχείρει βιάσασθαι.

The river Evenus rises in the country of the Bomianses, a nation situated among the Ophienses, and an Aetolian tribe like the Eurytanes, Agraei, Curetes, and others. It does not flow, at its commencement, through the territory of the Curetes, which is the same as Pleuronia, but through the country more towards the east along Chalcis and Calydon; it then makes a bend backwards to the plains of the ancient Pleuron, and having changed its course to the west, turns again to the south, where it empties itself. It was formerly called Lycormas. There Nessus, who had the post of ferryman, is said to have been killed by Hercules for having attempted to force Deianeira while he was conveying her across the river.

καὶ Ὤλενον δὲ καὶ Πυλήνην ὀνομάζει πόλεις ὁ ποιητὴς Αἰτωλικάς, ὧν τὴν μὲν Ὤλενον ὁμωνύμως τῇ Ἀχαϊκῇ λεγομένην Αἰολεῖς κατέσκαψαν, πλησίον οὖσαν τῆς νεωτέρας Πλευρῶνος, τῆς δὲ χώρας ἠμφισβήτουν Ἀκαρνᾶνες· τὴν δὲ Πυλήνην μετενέγκαντες εἰς τοὺς ἀνώτερον τόπους ἤλλαξαν αὐτῆς καὶ τοὔνομα Πρόσχιον καλέσαντες. Ἑλλάνικος δʼ οὐδὲ τὴν περὶ ταύτας ἱστορίαν οἶδεν, ἀλλʼ ὡς ἔτι καὶ αὐτῶν οὐσῶν ἐν τῇ ἀρχαίᾳ καταστάσει μέμνηται, τὰς δʼ ὕστερον καὶ τῆς τῶν Ἡρακλειδῶν καθόδου κτισθείσας Μακυνίαν καὶ Μολύκρειαν ἐν ταῖς ἀρχαίαις καταλέγει, πλείστην εὐχέρειαν ἐπιδεικνύμενος ἐν πάσῃ σχεδόν τι τῇ γραφῇ.

The poet calls Olenus and Pylene Aetolian cities, the former of which, of the same name as the Achaean city, was razed by the Aeolians. It is near the new city Pleuron. The Acarnanians disputed the possession of the territory. They transferred Pylene to a higher situation, and changed its name to Proschium. Hellanicus was not at all acquainted with the history of these cities, but speaks of them as still existing in their ancient condition, but Macynia and Molycria, which were built subsequent to the return of the Heracleidae, he enumerates among ancient cities, and shows the greatest carelessness in almost every part of his work.

People and places in this passage

English translation by H. C. Hamilton and W. Falconer (1854). Original text: August Meineke (ed.), Strabonis Geographica, 3 vols., Leipzig: Teubner, 1877 (Greek text as digitised by Perseus).

Greek text and translation from the Perseus Digital Library, Tufts University, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Perseus Digital Library); translation public domain. Introductions, summaries and notes © GreekMythology.com.