θέατρον δὲ ἀρχαῖον, μεταξὺ τῆς ἀγορᾶς καὶ τοῦ Μηνίου τὸ θέατρόν τε καὶ ἱερόν ἐστι Διονύσου· τέχνη τὸ ἄγαλμα Πραξιτέλους, θεῶν δὲ ἐν τοῖς μάλιστα Διόνυσον σέβουσιν Ἠλεῖοι καὶ τὸν θεόν σφισιν ἐπιφοιτᾶν ἐς τῶν Θυίων τὴν ἑορτὴν λέγουσιν. ἀπέχει μέν γε τῆς πόλεως ὅσον τε ὀκτὼ στάδια ἔνθα τὴν ἑορτὴν ἄγουσι Θυῖα ὀνομάζοντες· λέβητας δὲ ἀριθμὸν τρεῖς ἐς οἴκημα ἐσκομίσαντες οἱ ἱερεῖς κατατίθενται κενούς, παρόντων καὶ τῶν ἀστῶν καὶ ξένων, εἰ τύχοιεν ἐπιδημοῦντες· σφραγῖδας δὲ αὐτοί τε οἱ ἱερεῖς καὶ τῶν ἄλλων ὅσοις ἂν κατὰ γνώμην ᾖ ταῖς θύραις τοῦ οἰκήματος ἐπιβάλλουσιν, ἐς δὲ τὴν ἐπιοῦσαν τά τε
σημεῖα ἐπιγνῶναι πάρεστί σφισι καὶ ἐσελθόντες ἐς τὸ οἴκημα εὑρίσκουσιν οἴνου πεπλησμένους τοὺς λέβητας. ταῦτα Ἠλείων τε οἱ δοκιμώτατοι ἄνδρες, σὺν αὐτοῖς δὲ καὶ ξένοι κατώμνυντο ἔχειν κατὰ τὰ εἰρημένα, ἐπεὶ αὐτός γε οὐκ ἐς καιρὸν ἀφικόμην τῆς ἑορτῆς· λέγουσι δὲ καὶ Ἄνδριοι παρὰ ἔτος σφίσιν ἐς τοῦ Διονύσου τὴν ἑορτὴν ῥεῖν οἶνον αὐτόματον ἐκ τοῦ ἱεροῦ. εἰ πιστεύειν χρὴ ταῦτα Ἕλλησιν, ἀποδέχοιτο ἄν τις τῷ λόγῳ γε τῷ αὐτῷ καὶ ὅσα Αἰθίοπες οἱ ὑπὲρ Συήνης ἐς τοῦ ἡλίου τὴν τράπεζαν λέγουσιν.
ἐν ἀκροπόλει δὲ τῇ Ἠλείων ἐστὶν ἱερὸν Ἀθηνᾶς· ἐλέφαντος δὲ τὸ ἄγαλμα καὶ χρυσοῦ. εἶναι μὲν δὴ Φειδίου φασὶν αὐτήν, πεποίηται δὲ ἀλεκτρυὼν ἐπὶ τῷ κράνει, ὅτι οὗτοι προχειρότατα ἔχουσιν ἐς μάχας οἱ ἀλεκτρυόνες· δύναιτο δʼ ἂν καὶ Ἀθηνᾶς τῆς Ἐργάνης ἱερὸς ὁ ὄρνις νομίζεσθαι.
Κυλλήνη δὲ σταδίους μὲν εἴκοσιν Ἤλιδος καὶ ἑκατὸν ἀφέστηκε, κεῖται δὲ τετραμμένη τε πρὸς Σικελίαν καὶ ὅρμον παρεχομένη ναυσὶν ἐπιτήδειον· ἐπίνειον δὲ οὖσα Ἠλείων ἀπὸ ἀνδρὸς Ἀρκάδος τὸ ὄνομα εἴληφε. Κυλλήνης δὲ ἐν μὲν Ἠλείων καταλόγῳ λόγον οὐδένα Ὅμηρος ἐποιήσατο, ἐν δὲ ἔπεσι τοῖς ὕστερον δεδήλωκεν ὡς πόλισμα οὖσαν καὶ τὴν Κυλλήνην ἐπίσταται·
Πουλυδάμας δʼ Ὦτον Κυλλήνιον ἐξενάριξεν, / Φυλείδεω ἕταρον, μεγαθύμων ἀρχὸν Ἐπειῶν. / θεῶν δὲ ἱερὰ ἐν Κυλλήνῃ Ἀσκληπιοῦ, τὸ δὲ Ἀφροδίτης ἐστί· τοῦ Ἑρμοῦ δὲ τὸ ἄγαλμα, ὃν οἱ ταύτῃ περισσῶς σέβουσιν, ὀρθόν ἐστιν αἰδοῖον ἐπὶ τοῦ βάθρου.
ἡ δὲ Ἠλεία χώρα τά τε ἄλλα ἐστὶν ἐς καρποὺς καὶ τὴν βύσσον οὐχ ἥκιστα ἐκτρέφειν ἀγαθή. τὴν μὲν δὴ κανναβίδα καὶ λίνον καὶ τὴν βύσσον σπείρουσιν ὅσοις ἡ γῆ τρέφειν ἐστὶν ἐπιτήδειος· οἱ μίτοι δέ, ἀφʼ ὧν τὰς ἐσθῆτας ποιοῦσιν οἱ Σῆρες, ἀπὸ οὐδενὸς φλοιοῦ, τρόπον δὲ ἕτερον γίνονται τοιόνδε. ἔστιν ἐν τῇ γῇ ζωύφιόν σφισιν, ὃν σῆρα καλοῦσιν Ἕλληνες, ὑπὸ δὲ αὐτῶν Σηρῶν ἄλλο πού τι καὶ οὐ σὴρ ὀνομάζεται·
μέγεθος μέν ἐστιν αὐτοῦ διπλάσιον ἢ κανθάρων ὁ μέγιστος, τὰ δὲ ἄλλα εἴκασται τοῖς ἀράχναις, οἳ ὑπὸ τοῖς δένδρεσιν ὑφαίνουσι, καὶ δὴ καὶ πόδας ἀριθμὸν ὀκτὼ κατὰ ταὐτὰ ἔχει τοῖς ἀράχναις. ταῦτα τὰ ζῷα τρέφουσιν οἱ Σῆρες οἴκους κατασκευασάμενοι χειμῶνός τε καὶ θέρους ὥρᾳ ἐπιτηδείους· τὸ δὲ ἔργον τῶν ζῴων κλῶσμα εὑρίσκεται λεπτὸν τοῖς ποσὶν αὐτῶν περιειλιγμένον.
τρέφουσι δὲ αὐτὰ ἐπὶ μὲν τέσσαρα ἔτη παρέχοντες τροφήν σφισιν ἔλυμον, πέμπτῳ δὲ—οὐ γὰρ πρόσω βιωσόμενα ἴσασι—κάλαμον διδόασιν ἐσθίειν χλωρόν· ἡ δέ ἐστιν ἡδίστη τροφὴ πασῶν τῷ ζῴῳ, καὶ ἐμφορηθὲν τοῦ καλάμου ῥήγνυταί τε ὑπὸ πλησμονῆς καὶ ἀποθανόντος οὕτω τὸ πολὺ τῆς ἁρπεδόνης εὑρίσκουσιν ἔνδον. γινώσκεται δὲ ἡ Σηρία νῆσος ἐν μυχῷ θαλάσσης κειμένη τῆς Ἐρυθρᾶς.
ἤκουσα δὲ καὶ ὡς οὐχ ἡ Ἐρυθρά, ποταμὸς δὲ ὃν Σῆρα ὀνομάζουσιν, οὗτός ἐστιν ὁ ποιῶν νῆσον αὐτήν, ὥσπερ καὶ Αἰγύπτου τὸ Δέλτα ὑπὸ τοῦ Νείλου καὶ οὐχ ὑπὸ μιᾶς περιέχεσθαι θαλάσσης· τοιαύτην ἑτέραν καὶ τὴν Σηρίαν νῆσον εἶναι. οὗτοι μὲν δὴ τοῦ Αἰθιόπων γένους αὐτοί τέ εἰσιν οἱ Σῆρες καὶ ὅσοι τὰς προσεχεῖς αὐτῇ νέμονται νήσους, Ἄβασαν καὶ Σακαίαν· οἱ δὲ αὐτοὺς οὐκ Αἰθίοπας, Σκύθας δὲ ἀναμεμιγμένους Ἰνδοῖς φασὶν εἶναι.
ταῦτα μὲν δὴ οὕτω λέγεται· ἀνδρὶ δὲ ἐς Ἀχαΐαν ἰόντι ἐξ Ἤλιδος ἑπτὰ καὶ πεντήκοντα στάδιοι καὶ ἑκατὸν ἐπὶ ποταμόν εἰσι Λάρισον, καὶ Ἠλείοις ὅροι πρὸς Ἀχαιοὺς τῆς χώρας ὁ ποταμός ἐστιν ἐφʼ ἡμῶν ὁ Λάρισος· τὰ δὲ ἔτι ἀρχαιότερα ἄκρα σφίσι πρὸς θαλάσσῃ ὅρος ἦν ὁ Ἄραξος.
Between the market-place and the Menius is an old theatre and a sanctuary of Dionysus: the image is by Praxiteles. No god is more revered by the Eleans than Dionysus, and they say that he attends their festival of the Thyia. The place where they hold the festival called Thyia is about eight furlongs from the city. Three empty kettles are taken into a building and deposited there by the priests in the presence of the citizens and of any strangers who may happen to be staying in the country. On the doors of the building the priests, and all who choose to do so, put their seals. Next day they are free to examine the seals, and on entering the building they find the kettles full of wine. I was not there myself at the time of the festival, but the most respectable men of Elis, and strangers too, swore that the facts were as I have said. The people of Andros also say that every other year, at their festival of Dionysus, wine flows of itself from the sanctuary. If these Greek stories are to be trusted, one might, by the same token, believe what the Ethiopians above Syene say about the Table of the Sun. 2. In the acropolis of Elis is a sanctuary of Athena: the image is of ivory and gold. They say it is by Phidias. A cock is perched on her helmet, because cocks are very combative. But perhaps the bird might be regarded as sacred to Athena the Worker. 3. Cyllene is one hundred and twenty furlongs from Elis: it looks towards Sicily, and offers a good anchorage for ships. It is the seaport of Elis, and got its name from an Arcadian. Cyllene is not mentioned by Homer in his list of the Eleans, but a later passage shows that he knew of the town :— But Pulydamas stripped Otus the Cyllenian, Companion of Phylides and lord of the high-souled Epeans. In Cyllene there is a sanctuary of Aesculapius and one of Aphrodite. The image of Hermes, which the people of the place revere exceedingly, is nothing but the male organ of generation erect on a pedestal. 4. The land of Elis is fertile, and is especially adapted to the growth of fine flax. Now, whereas hemp and flax (both the common and the fine kind) are sown where the soil is suitable, the threads of which the Seres make their garments are produced, not from a bark, but in the following manner. In the country of the Seres there is an insect which the Greeks call a ser (silk-worm), but to which the Seres themselves probably give a different name. - In size it is twice as big as the biggest beetle ; but in all other respects it resembles the spiders that spin under the trees, and in particular it has, like the spider, eight feet. The Seres rear these creatures, and build houses for them adapted both for winter and summer. The product of these insects is found in the shape of a fine clue wound about their feet. The people keep the insects four years, feeding them on millet ; but in the fifth year, knowing that they will not live longer, they give them a green reed to eat. This is the food that the insect likes best of all, and it crams itself with it till it bursts with repletion ; and when it is dead they find the bulk of the thread in its inside. The island of Seria is known to be situated in a recess of the Red Sea. But I have also heard that the island is formed, not by the Red Sea, but by a river named the Ser, just as the Delta of Egypt is surrounded by the Nile and not by a sea; such also, it is said, is the island of Seria. Both the Seres and the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands of Abasa and Sacaea are of the Ethiopian race ; some say, however, that they are not Ethiopians, but a mixture of Scythians and Indians.
Going from Elis to Achaia you travel one hundred and fifty-seven furlongs to the river Larisus. At present the Larisus is the boundary between Elis and Achaia, but in older days Cape Araxus formed the boundary on the coast.
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