Pausanias · Description of Greece Ἑλλάδος Περιήγησις

Pausanias, Description of Greece 6.21.1–11: Olympia and Pisa: Demeter Chamyne, Phrixa and the suitors of Hippodamia

Pausanias describes the sanctuary of Demeter Chamyne opposite the hippodrome, the gymnasium and the grave of Oenomaus across the Cladeus. He then follows the boundary between Arcadia and the land of Pisa, noting the tomb of Saurus, a ruined temple of Aesculapius, and the ruined city of Phrixa with its temple of Cydonian Athena. He also mentions the grave of the horses of Marmax and the ruins of Harpina, and ends with the mound of the suitors of Hippodamia killed by Oenomaus, with the list of their names given in the Great Eoeae.

Sections 6.21.1–11 · 878 words · click a number to copy its link

τὸ δὲ ἕτερον τοῦ ἱπποδρόμου μέρος οὐ χῶμα γῆς ἐστιν, ὄρος δὲ οὐχ ὑψηλόν. ἐπὶ τῷ πέρατι τοῦ ὄρους ἱερὸν πεποίηται Δήμητρι ἐπίκλησιν Χαμύνῃ· καὶ οἱ μὲν ἀρχαῖον τὸ ὄνομα ἥγηνται, χανεῖν γὰρ τὴν γῆν ἐνταῦθα τὸ ἅρμα τοῦ Ἅιδου καὶ αὖθις μύσαι· οἱ δὲ Χάμυνον ἄνδρα Πισαῖον Πανταλέοντι ἐναντιούμενον τῷ Ὀμφαλίωνος τυραννοῦντι ἐν Πίσῃ καὶ ἀπόστασιν βουλεύοντι ἀπὸ Ἠλείων, ἀποθανεῖν φασιν αὐτὸν ὑπὸ τοῦ Πανταλέοντος καὶ ἀπὸ τοῦ Χαμύνου τῆς οὐσίας τῇ Δήμητρι οἰκοδομηθῆναι τὸ ἱερόν.

ἀγάλματα δὲ ἀντὶ τῶν ἀρχαίων Κόρην καὶ Δήμητρα λίθου τοῦ Πεντελῆσιν Ἀθηναῖος ἀνέθηκεν Ἡρώδης. ἐν τῷ γυμνασίῳ τῷ ἐν Ὀλυμπίᾳ πεντάθλοις μὲν καθεστήκασιν ἐν αὐτῷ καὶ δρομεῦσιν αἱ μελέται, κρηπὶς δὲ ἐν τῷ ὑπαίθρῳ λίθου πεποίηται· τὸ δὲ ἐξ ἀρχῆς καὶ τρόπαιον κατὰ Ἀρκάδων ἐπὶ τῇ κρηπῖδι εἱστήκει. ἔστι δὲ καὶ ἄλλος ἐλάσσων περίβολος ἐν ἀριστερᾷ τῆς ἐσόδου τῆς ἐς τὸ γυμνάσιον, καὶ αἱ παλαῖστραι τοῖς ἀθληταῖς εἰσιν ἐνταῦθα· τῆς στοᾶς δὲ τῆς πρὸς ἀνίσχοντα ἥλιον τοῦ γυμνασίου προσεχεῖς τῷ τοίχῳ τῶν ἀθλητῶν εἰσιν αἱ οἰκήσεις, ἐπί τε ἄνεμον τετραμμέναι Λίβα καὶ ἡλίου δυσμάς.

διαβάντων δὲ τὸν Κλάδεον τάφος τε Οἰνομάου γῆς χῶμα περιῳκοδομημένον λίθοις ἐστὶ καὶ ὑπὲρ τοῦ μνήματος ἐρείπια οἰκοδομημάτων, ἔνθα τῷ Οἰνομάῳ τὰς ἵππους αὐλίζεσθαι λέγουσιν. ὅροι δὲ πρὸς Ἀρκάδας τῆς χώρας τὰ μὲν παρόντα Ἠλείοις, τὰ δὲ ἐξ ἀρχῆς οἱ αὐτοὶ Πισαίοις καθεστήκεσαν ἀνέχοντες κατὰ τάδε. διαβάντων ποταμὸν Ἐρύμανθον κατὰ τὴν Σαύρου καλουμένην δειράδα τοῦ Σαύρου τε μνῆμα καὶ ἱερόν ἐστιν Ἡρακλέους, ἐρείπια ἐφʼ ἡμῶν· λέγουσι δὲ ὡς ὁδοιπόρους τε καὶ τοὺς προσοικοῦντας ὁ Σαῦρος ἐκακούργει, πρὶν ἢ παρὰ Ἡρακλέους τὴν δίκην ἔσχε.

κατὰ ταύτην τὴν ἐπώνυμον τοῦ λῃστοῦ δειράδα ποταμὸς ἀπὸ μεσημβρίας κατιὼν ἐς τὸν Ἀλφειὸν καταντικρὺ τοῦ Ἐρυμάνθου μάλιστα, οὗτός ἐστιν ὁ τὴν Πισαίαν πρὸς Ἀρκάδας διορίζων, ὄνομα δέ οἱ Διάγων. τεσσαράκοντα δὲ ἀπὸ τῆς Σαύρου δειράδος προελθόντι στάδια ἔστιν Ἀσκληπιοῦ ναός, ἐπίκλησιν μὲν Δημαινέτου ἀπὸ τοῦ ἱδρυσαμένου, ἐρείπια δὲ καὶ αὐτός· ᾠκοδομήθη δὲ ἐπὶ τοῦ ὑψηλοῦ παρὰ τὸν Ἀλφειόν.

τούτου δὲ οὐ πόρρω ἱερὸν Διονύσου Λευκυανίτου πεποίηται, καὶ ποταμὸς παρέξεισι ταύτῃ Λευκυανίας· ἐκδίδωσι μὲν οὖν καὶ οὗτος ἐς τὸν Ἀλφειόν, κάτεισι δὲ ἐκ Φολόης τοῦ ὄρους. διαβήσῃ τε δὴ τὸ ἀπὸ τούτου τὸν Ἀλφειὸν καὶ ἐντὸς γῆς ἔσῃ τῆς Πισαίας.

ἐν ταύτῃ τῇ χώρᾳ λόφος ἐστὶν ἀνήκων ἐς ὀξύ, ἐπὶ δὲ αὐτῷ πόλεως Φρίξας ἐρείπια καὶ Ἀθηνᾶς ἐστιν ἐπίκλησιν Κυδωνίας ναός. οὗτος μὲν οὐ τὰ πάντα ἐστὶ σῶς, βωμὸς δὲ καὶ ἐς ἐμὲ ἔτι· ἱδρύσασθαι δὲ τῇ θεῷ τὸ ἱερὸν Κλύμενόν φασιν ἀπόγονον Ἡρακλέους τοῦ Ἰδαίου, παραγενέσθαι δὲ αὐτὸν ἀπὸ Κυδωνίας τῆς Κρητικῆς καὶ τοῦ Ἰαρδάνου ποταμοῦ. λέγουσι δὲ καὶ Πέλοπα οἱ Ἠλεῖοι τῇ Ἀθηνᾷ θῦσαι τῇ Κυδωνίᾳ πρὶν ἢ ἐς τὸν ἀγῶνα αὐτὸν τῷ Οἰνομάῳ καθίστασθαι.

προϊόντι δὲ ἐντεῦθεν τό τε ὕδωρ τῆς Παρθενίας ἐστὶ καὶ πρὸς τῷ ποταμῷ τάφος ἵππων τῶν Μάρμακος· Ἱπποδαμείας δὲ μνηστῆρα ἔχει λόγος ἀφικέσθαι πρῶτον τοῦτον Μάρμακα καὶ ἀποθανεῖν ὑπὸ τοῦ Οἰνομάου πρὸ τῶν ἄλλων, ὀνόματα δὲ αὐτοῦ ταῖς ἵπποις Παρθενίαν τε εἶναι καὶ Ἐρίφαν—Οἰνόμαον δὲ ἐπικατασφάξαι μὲν τὰς ἵππους τῷ Μάρμακι, μεταδοῦναι μέντοι καὶ ταύταις ταφῆναι—, καὶ ὄνομα Παρθενίας τῷ ποταμῷ ἀπὸ ἵππου τῆς Μάρμακος.

ἔστι δὲ καὶ ἄλλος Ἁρπινάτης καλούμενος ποταμὸς καὶ οὐ πολὺ ἀπὸ τοῦ ποταμοῦ πόλεως Ἁρπίνης ἄλλα τε ἐρείπια καὶ μάλιστα οἱ βωμοί· οἰκίσαι δὲ Οἰνόμαον τὴν πόλιν καὶ θέσθαι τὸ ὄνομα ἀπὸ τῆς μητρὸς λέγουσιν Ἁρπίνης.

προελθόντι δὲ οὐ πολὺ γῆς χῶμά ἐστιν ὑψηλόν, τῶν μνηστήρων τῶν Ἱπποδαμείας τάφος. Οἰνόμαον μὲν οὖν ἐγγὺς ἀλλήλων κρύπτειν γῇ φασιν οὐκ ἐπιφανῶς αὐτούς· Πέλοψ δὲ ὕστερον μνῆμα ἐν κοινῷ σφισιν ἐπὶ μέγα ἐξῆρε τιμῇ τῇ ἐς αὐτοὺς καὶ Ἱπποδαμείας χάριτι, δοκεῖν δέ μοι καὶ ὑπόμνημα ἐς τοὺς ἔπειτα ὅσων τε καὶ οἵων τὸν Οἰνόμαον κρατήσαντα ἐνίκησεν αὐτός.

ἀπέθανον δὲ ὑπὸ τοῦ Οἰνομάου κατὰ τὰ ἔπη τὰς μεγάλας Ἠοίας Ἀλκάθους ὁ Πορθάονος, δεύτερος οὗτος ἐπὶ τῷ Μάρμακι, μετὰ δὲ Ἀλκάθουν Εὐρύαλος καὶ Εὐρύμαχός τε καὶ Κρόταλος· τούτων μὲν οὖν γονέας τε καὶ πατρίδας οὐχ οἷά τε ἦν πυθέσθαι μοι, τὸν δὲ ἀποθανόντα ἐπʼ αὐτοῖς Ἀκρίαν τεκμαίροιτο ἄν τις Λακεδαιμόνιόν τε εἶναι καὶ οἰκιστὴν Ἀκριῶν. ἐπὶ δὲ τῷ Ἀκρίᾳ Κάπετόν φασιν ὑπὸ τοῦ Οἰνομάου φονευθῆναι καὶ Λυκοῦργον Λάσιόν τε καὶ Χαλκώδοντα καὶ Τρικόλωνον· ἀπόγονον δὲ αὐτὸν εἶναι καὶ ὁμώνυμον Τρικολώνῳ τῷ Λυκάονος λέγουσιν οἱ Ἀρκάδες.

Τρικολώνου δὲ ὕστερον ἐπέλαβεν ἐν τῷ δρόμῳ τὸ χρεὼν Ἀριστόμαχόν τε καὶ Πρίαντα, ἔτι δὲ Πελάγοντα καὶ Αἰόλιόν τε καὶ Κρόνιον. οἱ δὲ καὶ ἐπαριθμοῦσι τοῖς κατειλεγμένοις Ἐρύθραν παῖδα Λεύκωνος τοῦ Ἀθάμαντος—ἀπὸ τούτου Ἐρυθραὶ πόλισμα ἐκαλεῖτο Βοιωτῶν—καὶ Ἠιονέα Μάγνητος τοῦ Αἰόλου. τούτοις μὲν δὴ ἐνταῦθά ἐστι τὸ μνῆμα, καὶ τὸν Πέλοπα, ἡνίκα τῶν Πισαίων ἔσχε τὴν ἀρχήν, φασὶν ἐναγίζειν αὐτοῖς ἀνὰ πᾶν ἔτος.

The other side of the hippodrome is not a bank of earth, but a low hill. At the extremity of the hill is a sanctuary of Demeter surnamed Chamyne. Some think that the name is ancient, its explanation being that the earth here gaped (chanein) for the chariot of Hades and closed up (musai) again. Others say that Chamynus was a man of Pisa who opposed Pantaleon, son of Omphalion, tyrant of Pisa, when the tyrant meditated revolting from Elis; but Chamynus, they say, was killed by Pantaleon, and out of his property the sanctuary was built to Demeter.

Instead of the old images, Herodes the Athenian dedicated new images of the Maid and Demeter, made of Pentelic marble. In the gymnasium at Olympia the pentathletes and the runners practise. In the open air there is a stone basement, on which stood originally a trophy of a victory over the Arcadians. There is another smaller enclosure on the left of the entrance into the gymnasium: here the athletes practise wrestling. Abutting on the wall of the eastern colonnade of the gymnasium are the houses of the athletes facing south-west. Across the Cladeus is the grave of Oenomaus, a mound of earth enclosed by a retaining-wall of stones, and above the tomb are remains of buildings where Oenomaus is said to have stabled his mares. What are now the boundaries between Arcadia and Elis, but were originally the boundaries between Arcadia and Pisa, are situated as follows.

Across the river Erymanthus there is, at the ridge called the ridge of Saurus, a tomb of Saurus and a sanctuary of Hercules, now in ruins. They say that Saurus maltreated wayfarers and the people of the neighbourhood, till he received his deserts at the hands of Hercules.

At this ridge, which takes its name from the robber, the river that falls into the Alpheus from the south, just opposite the Erymanthus, is the boundary between Arcadia and the land of Pisa: its name is Diagon. Going on for forty furlongs from the ridge of Saurus you come to a temple of Aesculapius, surnamed Demaenetus after the founder ; it also is in ruins. It was built on high ground beside the Alpheus. Not far from it is a sanctuary of Dionysus Leucyanites, beside which flows a river Leucyanias. It also falls into the Alpheus; it descends from Mount Pholoe.

After that you will cross the Alpheus and be in the territory of Pisa. In this district there is a hill rising to a sharp peak, and on it are the ruins of a city, Phrixa; there is also a temple of Athena surnamed Cydonian. The temple is not entire, but the altar still exists. They say that the sanctuary was founded for the goddess by Clymenus, a descendant of the Idaean Hercules, and that Clymenus came from Cydonia in Crete, and from the river Jardanus. The Eleans say that Pelops also sacrificed to Cydonian Athena before he embarked on the contest with Oenomaus.

Further on you come to the water of Parthenia, and beside the river is the grave of the horses of Marmax. The story is that this Marmax was the first to arrive of the wooers of Hippodamia, that he was killed by Oenomaus before the rest, that the names of his mares were Parthenia and Eripha, that Oenomaus slew them with their master, but granted them also the privilege of burial, and that the river got the name of Parthenia from Marmax’s mare. There is another river called the Harpinates, and not far from it are some ruins of a city Harpina, including the altars. They say that Oenomaus founded the city, and named it after his mother Harpina.

Going on a short way you come to a high mound of earth, the grave of the suitors of Hippodamia. Oenomaus, they say, laid them in the ground near each other with no mark of honour ; but afterwards Pelops, out of respect to them and for the sake of Hippodamia, reared a single lofty monument to them all. He wished, too, it seems to me, that the monument should record to after ages the number and the quality of the men whom Oenomaus had conquered before he was himself overcome by Pelops. According to the epic poem called the Great Eoeae, the next after Marmax who was slain by Oenomaus was Alcathus, son of Porthaon; and after him Euryalus, Eurymachus, and Crotalus. Of these I was not able to ascertain the parents and native countries. Acrias, the next victim, may be supposed to have been a Lacedaemonian and founder of Acriae. After Acrias they say that Capetus was slain by Oenomaus, also Lycurgus, Lasius, Chalcodon, and Tricolonus. The last is said by the Arcadians to have been a descendant of his namesake Tricolonus, son of Lycaon. After Tricolonus, those who met their death in the race were Aristomachus, Prias, Pelagon, Aeolius, and Cronius. Some add to this list Erythras, son of Leucon, son of Athamas, from whom the Boeotian town of Erythrae got its name, and Eioneus, son of Magnes, son of Aeolus. These are they whose monument stands here; and it is said that when Pelops became lord of Pisa he sacrificed to them, as to heroes, every year.

People and places in this passage

English translation by Sir James George Frazer (1898). Original text: Friedrich Spiro (ed.), Pausaniae Graeciae descriptio, 3 vols., Leipzig: Teubner, 1903 (Greek text as digitised by Perseus).

Greek text and translation from the Perseus Digital Library, Tufts University, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Perseus Digital Library, Greek text); translation public domain (OCR from the Internet Archive scan). Introductions, summaries and notes © GreekMythology.com.