τὸ δὲ ἱερὸν τῶν Διοσκούρων ἐστὶν ἀρχαῖον, αὐτοί τε ἑστῶτες καὶ οἱ παῖδες καθήμενοί σφισιν ἐφʼ ἵππων. ἐνταῦθα Πολύγνωτος μὲν ἔχοντα ἐς αὐτοὺς ἔγραψε γάμον τῶν θυγατέρων τῶν Λευκίππου, Μίκων δὲ τοὺς μετὰ Ἰάσονος ἐς Κόλχους πλεύσαντας· καί οἱ τῆς γραφῆς ἡ σπουδὴ μάλιστα ἐς Ἄκαστον καὶ τοὺς ἵππους ἔχει τοὺς Ἀκάστου.
ὑπὲρ δὲ τῶν Διοσκούρων τὸ ἱερὸν Ἀγλαύρου τέμενός ἐστιν. Ἀγλαύρῳ δὲ καὶ ταῖς ἀδελφαῖς Ἕρσῃ καὶ Πανδρόσῳ δοῦναί φασιν Ἀθηνᾶν Ἐριχθόνιον καταθεῖσαν ἐς κιβωτόν, ἀπειποῦσαν ἐς τὴν παρακαταθήκην μὴ πολυπραγμονεῖν· Πάνδροσον μὲν δὴ λέγουσι πείθεσθαι, τὰς δὲ δύο—ἀνοῖξαι γὰρ σφᾶς τὴν κιβωτόν—μαίνεσθαί τε, ὡς εἶδον τὸν Ἐριχθόνιον, καὶ κατὰ τῆς ἀκροπόλεως, ἔνθα ἦν μάλιστα ἀπότομον, αὑτὰς ῥῖψαι. κατὰ τοῦτο ἐπαναβάντες Μῆδοι κατεφόνευσαν Ἀθηναίων τοὺς πλέον τι ἐς τὸν χρησμὸν ἢ Θεμιστοκλῆς εἰδέναι νομίζοντας καὶ τὴν ἀκρόπολιν ξύλοις καὶ σταυροῖς ἀποτειχίσαντας.
πλησίον δὲ πρυτανεῖόν ἐστιν, ἐν ᾧ νόμοι τε οἱ Σόλωνός εἰσι γεγραμμένοι καὶ θεῶν Εἰρήνης ἀγάλματα κεῖται καὶ Ἑστίας, ἀνδριάντες δὲ ἄλλοι τε καὶ Αὐτόλυκος ὁ παγκρατιαστής· τὰς γὰρ Μιλτιάδου καὶ Θεμιστοκλέους εἰκόνας ἐς Ῥωμαῖόν τε ἄνδρα καὶ Θρᾷκα μετέγραψαν.
ἐντεῦθεν ἰοῦσιν ἐς τὰ κάτω τῆς πόλεως Σαράπιδός ἐστιν ἱερόν, ὃν Ἀθηναῖοι παρὰ Πτολεμαίου θεὸν ἐσηγάγοντο. Αἰγυπτίοις δὲ ἱερὰ Σαράπιδος ἐπιφανέστατον μέν ἐστιν Ἀλεξανδρεῦσιν, ἀρχαιότατον δὲ ἐν Μέμφει· ἐς τοῦτο ἐσελθεῖν οὔτε ξένοις ἔστιν οὔτε τοῖς ἱερεῦσι, πρὶν ἂν τὸν Ἆπιν θάπτωσι. τοῦ δὲ ἱεροῦ τοῦ Σαράπιδος οὐ πόρρω χωρίον ἐστίν, ἔνθα Πειρίθουν καὶ Θησέα συνθεμένους ἐς Λακεδαίμονα καὶ ὕστερον ἐς Θεσπρωτοὺς σταλῆναι λέγουσι.
πλησίον δὲ ᾠκοδόμητο ναὸς Εἰλειθυίας, ἣν ἐλθοῦσαν ἐξ Ὑπερβορέων ἐς Δῆλον γενέσθαι βοηθὸν ταῖς Λητοῦς ὠδῖσι, τοὺς δὲ ἄλλους παρʼ αὐτῶν φασι τῆς Εἰλειθυίας μαθεῖν τὸ ὄνομα· καὶ θύουσί τε Εἰλειθυίᾳ Δήλιοι καὶ ὕμνον ᾄδουσιν Ὠλῆνος. Κρῆτες δὲ χώρας τῆς Κνωσσίας ἐν Ἀμνισῷ γενέσθαι νομίζουσιν Εἰλείθυιαν καὶ παῖδα Ἥρας εἶναι· μόνοις δὲ Ἀθηναίοις τῆς Εἰλειθυίας κεκάλυπται τὰ ξόανα ἐς ἄκρους τοὺς πόδας. τὰ μὲν δὴ δύο εἶναι Κρητικὰ καὶ Φαίδρας ἀναθήματα ἔλεγον αἱ γυναῖκες, τὸ δὲ ἀρχαιότατον Ἐρυσίχθονα ἐκ Δήλου κομίσαι.
πρὶν δὲ ἐς τὸ ἱερὸν ἰέναι τοῦ Διὸς τοῦ Ὀλυμπίου —Ἀδριανὸς ὁ Ῥωμαίων βασιλεὺς τόν τε ναὸν ἀνέθηκε καὶ τὸ ἄγαλμα θέας ἄξιον, οὗ μεγέθει μέν, ὅτι μὴ Ῥοδίοις καὶ Ῥωμαίοις εἰσὶν οἱ κολοσσοί, τὰ λοιπὰ ἀγάλματα ὁμοίως ἀπολείπεται, πεποίηται δὲ ἔκ τε ἐλέφαντος καὶ χρυσοῦ καὶ ἔχει τέχνης εὖ πρὸς τὸ μέγεθος ὁρῶσιν—, ἐνταῦθα εἰκόνες Ἀδριανοῦ δύο μέν εἰσι Θασίου λίθου, δύο δὲ Αἰγυπτίου· χαλκαῖ δὲ ἑστᾶσι πρὸ τῶν κιόνων ἃς Ἀθηναῖοι καλοῦσιν ἀποίκους πόλεις. ὁ μὲν δὴ πᾶς περίβολος σταδίων μάλιστα τεσσάρων ἐστίν, ἀνδριάντων δὲ πλήρης· ἀπὸ γὰρ πόλεως ἑκάστης εἰκὼν Ἀδριανοῦ βασιλέως ἀνάκειται, καὶ σφᾶς ὑπερεβάλοντο Ἀθηναῖοι τὸν κολοσσὸν ἀναθέντες ὄπισθε τοῦ ναοῦ θέας ἄξιον.
ἔστι δὲ ἀρχαῖα ἐν τῷ περιβόλῳ Ζεὺς χαλκοῦς καὶ ναὸς Κρόνου καὶ Ῥέας καὶ τέμενος Γῆς ἐπίκλησιν Ὀλυμπίας. ἐνταῦθα ὅσον ἐς πῆχυν τὸ ἔδαφος διέστηκε, καὶ λέγουσι μετὰ τὴν ἐπομβρίαν τὴν ἐπὶ Δευκαλίωνος συμβᾶσαν ὑπορρυῆναι ταύτῃ τὸ ὕδωρ, ἐσβάλλουσί τε ἐς αὐτὸ ἀνὰ πᾶν ἔτος ἄλφιτα πυρῶν μέλιτι μίξαντες.
κεῖται δὲ ἐπὶ κίονος Ἰσοκράτους ἀνδριάς, ὃς ἐς μνήμην τρία ὑπελίπετο, ἐπιπονώτατον μὲν ὅτι οἱ βιώσαντι ἔτη δυοῖν δέοντα ἑκατὸν οὔποτε κατελύθη μαθητὰς ἔχειν, σωφρονέστατον δὲ ὅτι πολιτείας ἀπεχόμενος διέμεινε καὶ τὰ κοινὰ οὐ πολυπραγμονῶν, ἐλευθερώτατον δὲ ὅτι πρὸς τὴν ἀγγελίαν τῆς ἐν Χαιρωνείᾳ μάχης ἀλγήσας ἐτελεύτησεν ἐθελοντής. κεῖνται δὲ καὶ λίθου Φρυγίου Πέρσαι χαλκοῦν τρίποδα ἀνέχοντες, θέας ἄξιοι καὶ αὐτοὶ καὶ ὁ τρίπους. τοῦ δὲ Ὀλυμπίου Διὸς Δευκαλίωνα οἰκοδομῆσαι λέγουσι τὸ ἀρχαῖον ἱερόν, σημεῖον ἀποφαίνοντες ὡς Δευκαλίων Ἀθήνῃσιν ᾤκησε τάφον τοῦ ναοῦ τοῦ νῦν οὐ πολὺ ἀφεστηκότα.
Ἀδριανὸς δὲ κατεσκευάσατο μὲν καὶ ἄλλα Ἀθηναίοις, ναὸν Ἥρας καὶ Διὸς Πανελληνίου καὶ θεοῖς τοῖς πᾶσιν ἱερὸν κοινόν, τὰ δὲ ἐπιφανέστατα ἑκατόν εἰσι κίονες Φρυγίου λίθου· πεποίηνται δὲ καὶ ταῖς στοαῖς κατὰ τὰ αὐτὰ οἱ τοῖχοι. καὶ οἰκήματα ἐνταῦθά ἐστιν ὀρόφῳ τε ἐπιχρύσῳ καὶ ἀλαβάστρῳ λίθῳ, πρὸς δὲ ἀγάλμασι κεκοσμημένα καὶ γραφαῖς· κατάκειται δὲ ἐς αὐτὰ βιβλία. καὶ γυμνάσιόν ἐστιν ἐπώνυμον Ἀδριανοῦ· κίονες δὲ καὶ ἐνταῦθα ἑκατὸν λιθοτομίας τῆς Λιβύων.
The sanctuary of the Dioscuri is ancient. The Dioscuri themselves are represented on foot and their sons on horseback. Here is a painting by Polygnotus of the marriage of the Dioscuri to the daughters of Leucippus, and a painting by Micon of those who sailed with Jason to the land of the Colchians. Micon has bestowed most pains on Acastus and his horses.
Above the sanctuary of the Dioscuri is a precinct of Aglaurus. They say that Athena put Erichthonius in a chest, and gave him in charge to Aglaurus and her sisters Herse and Pandrosus, forbidding them to pry into that which she had committed to their care. Pandrosus, they say, obeyed her, but the other two opened the chest, and when they saw Erichthonius they went mad and flung themselves down the steepest part of the Acropolis. It was at this point that the Medes ascended and massacred those Athenians who thought they knew more about the oracle than Themistocles, and had fortified the Acropolis with logs and stakes.
Hard by is the Prytaneum, in which the laws of Solon are inscribed. In it are also images of the goddesses Peace and Hestia, and statues of the pancratiast Autolycus and other people. The names on the statues of Miltiades and Themistocles have been altered into those of a Roman and a Thracian.
Going thence to the lower parts of the city we come to a sanctuary of Serapis, a god whom the Athenians got from Ptolemy. Of the Egyptian sanctuaries of Serapis the most famous is at Alexandria, but the oldest is at Memphis. Into the latter sanctuary neither strangers nor priests may enter until they bury Apis.
Not far from the sanctuary of Serapis is a place where they say that Pirithous and Theseus covenanted before they went on their expedition to Lacedaemon and afterwards to Thesprotis. Near it is a temple of Ilithyia, who is said to have come from the Hyperboreans to Delos to help Latona in her pangs. The rest of the world, they say, learned the name of Ilithyia from the Delians, who sacrifice to her, and sing a hymn of Olen in her honour. The Cretans believe that Ilithyia was born at Amnisus in the land of Cnosus, and that she is a child of Hera. The Athenians are the only people whose wooden images of Ilithyia are draped to the tips of the feet. The women said that two of these images were Cretan, dedicated by Phaedra, but that the oldest was brought by Erysichthon from Delos.
Before you come to the sanctuary of Olympian Zeus there are two statues of Hadrian in Thasian, and two in Egyptian stone. It was Hadrian, the Roman emperor, who dedicated the temple and image of Olympian Zeus. The image is worth seeing. It surpasses in size all other images except the Colossuses at Rhodes and Rome: it is made of ivory and gold, and considering the size the workmanship is good. Before the columns stand bronze statues which the Athenians call the ‘Colonies.’ The whole enclosure is just four furlongs round about, and is full of statues; for every city set up a statue of the Emperor Hadrian, but the Athenians surpassed them all by erecting the notable Colossus behind the temple.
In the enclosure are the following antiquities: a bronze Zeus, a temple of Cronus and Rhea, and a precinct of Olympian Earth. Here the ground is cloven to a cubit’s width ; and they say that after the deluge which happened in Deucalion’s time the water ran away down this cleft. Every year they throw into it wheaten meal kneaded with honey.
On a column is a statue of Isocrates, who left behind him a threefold reputation : a reputation for industry, in that, though he lived to the age of ninety-eight, he never left off taking pupils; a reputation for prudence, in that he steadily abstained from politics and from meddling with public affairs; and a reputation for a generous spirit, because the tidings of the battle of Chaeronea grieved him so that he died a voluntary death. There is also a group, in Phrygian marble, of Persians supporting a bronze tripod: the figures and the tripod are both worth seeing. They say that the old sanctuary of Olympian Zeus was built by Deucalion, and in proof that Deucalion dwelt at Athens they point to a grave not far from the present temple.
Hadrian also built for the Athenians a temple of Hera and Panhellenian Zeus, and a sanctuary common to all the gods. But most splendid of all are one hundred columns : walls and colonnades alike are made of Phrygian marble. Here, too, is a building adorned with a gilded roof and alabaster, and also with statues and paintings: books are stored in it. There is also a gymnasium named after Hadrian ; it, too, has one hundred columns from the quarries of Libya.
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