Pausanias · Description of Greece Ἑλλάδος Περιήγησις

Pausanias, Description of Greece 1.19.1–6: Athens: Delphinium, Gardens, Cynosarges, Lyceum and the Ilissus stadium

Beyond the Olympieum Pausanias notes the shrines of Pythian and Delphinian Apollo, with the tale of Theseus tossing the oxen over the temple roof, the square image of Aphrodite in the Gardens by Alcamenes, Cynosarges with altars of Hercules and Hebe, and the Lyceum with the tomb of Nisus of Megara. He describes the Ilissus, where Orithyia was carried off by the North Wind, the temple of Huntress Artemis at Agrae, and the white marble stadium built by Herodes.

Sections 1.19.1–6 · 646 words · click a number to copy its link

μετὰ δὲ τὸν ναὸν τοῦ Διὸς τοῦ Ὀλυμπίου πλησίον ἄγαλμά ἐστιν Ἀπόλλωνος Πυθίου· ἔστι δὲ καὶ ἄλλο ἱερὸν Ἀπόλλωνος ἐπίκλησιν Δελφινίου. λέγουσι δὲ ὡς ἐξειργασμένου τοῦ ναοῦ πλὴν τῆς ὀροφῆς ἀγνὼς ἔτι τοῖς πᾶσιν ἀφίκοιτο Θησεὺς ἐς τὴν πόλιν· οἷα δὲ χιτῶνα ἔχοντος αὐτοῦ ποδήρη καὶ πεπλεγμένης ἐς εὐπρεπές οἱ τῆς κόμης, ὡς ἐγίνετο κατὰ τὸν τοῦ Δελφινίου ναόν, οἱ τὴν στέγην οἰκοδομοῦντες ἤροντο σὺν χλευασίᾳ, ὅ τι δὴ παρθένος ἐν ὥρᾳ γάμου πλανᾶται μόνη· Θησεὺς δὲ ἄλλο μὲν αὐτοῖς ἐδήλωσεν οὐδέν, ἀπολύσας δὲ ὡς λέγεται τῆς ἁμάξης τοὺς βοῦς, ἥ σφισι παρῆν, ἀνέρριψεν ἐς ὑψηλότερον ἢ τῷ ναῷ τὴν στέγην ἐποιοῦντο.

—ἐς δὲ τὸ χωρίον, ὃ Κήπους ὀνομάζουσι, καὶ τῆς Ἀφροδίτης τὸν ναὸν οὐδεὶς λεγόμενός σφισίν ἐστι λόγος· οὐ μὴν οὐδὲ ἐς τὴν Ἀφροδίτην, ἣ τοῦ ναοῦ πλησίον ἕστηκε. ταύτης γὰρ σχῆμα μὲν τετράγωνον κατὰ ταὐτὰ καὶ τοῖς Ἑρμαῖς, τὸ δὲ ἐπίγραμμα σημαίνει τὴν Οὐρανίαν Ἀφροδίτην τῶν καλουμένων Μοιρῶν εἶναι πρεσβυτάτην. τὸ δὲ ἄγαλμα τῆς Ἀφροδίτης τῆς ἐν Κήποις ἔργον ἐστὶν Ἀλκαμένους καὶ τῶν Ἀθήνῃσιν ἐν ὀλίγοις θέας ἄξιον.

ἔστι δὲ Ἡρακλέους ἱερὸν καλούμενον Κυνόσαργες· καὶ τὰ μὲν ἐς τὴν κύνα εἰδέναι τὴν λευκὴν ἐπιλεξαμένοις ἔστι τὸν χρησμόν, βωμοὶ δέ εἰσιν Ἡρακλέους τε καὶ Ἥβης, ἣν Διὸς παῖδα οὖσαν συνοικεῖν Ἡρακλεῖ νομίζουσιν· Ἀλκμήνης τε βωμὸς καὶ Ἰολάου πεποίηται, ὃς τὰ πολλὰ Ἡρακλεῖ συνεπόνησε τῶν ἔργων. Λύκειον δὲ ἀπὸ μὲν Λύκου τοῦ Πανδίονος ἔχει τὸ ὄνομα, Ἀπόλλωνος δὲ ἱερὸν ἐξ ἀρχῆς τε εὐθὺς καὶ καθʼ ἡμᾶς ἐνομίζετο, Λύκειός τε ὁ θεὸς ἐνταῦθα ὠνομάσθη πρῶτον· λέγεται δὲ ὅτι καὶ Τερμίλαις, ἐς οὓς ἦλθεν ὁ Λύκος φεύγων Αἰγέα, καὶ τούτοις αἴτιός ἐστι Λυκίους ἀπʼ αὐτοῦ καλεῖσθαι.

ἔστι δὲ ὄπισθεν τοῦ Λυκείου Νίσου μνῆμα, ὃν ἀποθανόντα ὑπὸ Μίνω βασιλεύοντα Μεγάρων κομίσαντες Ἀθηναῖοι ταύτῃ θάπτουσιν. ἐς τοῦτον τὸν Νῖσον ἔχει λόγος τρίχας ἐν τῇ κεφαλῇ οἱ πορφυρᾶς εἶναι, χρῆναι δὲ αὐτὸν τελευτᾶν ἐπὶ ταύταις ἀποκαρείσαις· ὡς δὲ οἱ Κρῆτες ἦλθον ἐς τὴν γῆν, τὰς μὲν ἄλλας ἐξ ἐπιδρομῆς ᾕρουν τὰς ἐν τῇ Μεγαρίδι πόλεις, ἐς δὲ τὴν Νίσαιαν καταφεύγοντα τὸν Νῖσον ἐπολιόρκουν· ἐνταῦθα τοῦ Νίσου λέγεται θυγατέρα ἐρασθῆναι Μίνω καὶ ὡς ἀπέκειρε τὰς τρίχας τοῦ πατρός.

ταῦτα μὲν οὕτω γενέσθαι λέγουσι· ποταμοὶ δὲ Ἀθηναίοις ῥέουσιν Ἰλισός τε καὶ Ἠριδανῷ τῷ Κελτικῷ κατὰ τὰ αὐτὰ ὄνομα ἔχων, ἐκδιδοὺς ἐς τὸν Ἰλισόν. ὁ δὲ Ἰλισός ἐστιν οὗτος, ἔνθα παίζουσαν Ὠρείθυιαν ὑπὸ ἀνέμου Βορέου φασὶν ἁρπασθῆναι· καὶ συνοικεῖν Ὠρειθυίᾳ Βορέαν καί σφισι διὰ τὸ κῆδος ἀμύναντα τῶν τριήρων τῶν βαρβαρικῶν ἀπολέσαι τὰς πολλάς. ἐθέλουσι δὲ Ἀθηναῖοι καὶ ἄλλων θεῶν ἱερὸν εἶναι τὸν Ἰλισόν, καὶ Μουσῶν βωμὸς ἐπʼ αὐτῷ ἐστιν Ἰλισιάδων· δείκνυται δὲ καὶ ἔνθα Πελοποννήσιοι Κόδρον τὸν Μελάνθου βασιλεύοντα Ἀθηναίων κτείνουσι.

διαβᾶσι δὲ τὸν Ἰλισὸν χωρίον Ἄγραι καλούμενον καὶ ναὸς Ἀγροτέρας ἐστὶν Ἀρτέμιδος· ἐνταῦθα Ἄρτεμιν πρῶτον θηρεῦσαι λέγουσιν ἐλθοῦσαν ἐκ Δήλου, καὶ τὸ ἄγαλμα διὰ τοῦτο ἔχει τόξον. τὸ δὲ ἀκούσασι μὲν οὐχ ὁμοίως ἐπαγωγόν, θαῦμα δʼ ἰδοῦσι, στάδιόν ἐστι λευκοῦ λίθου. μέγεθος δὲ αὐτοῦ τῇδε ἄν τις μάλιστα τεκμαίροιτο· ἄνωθεν ὄρος ὑπὲρ τὸν Ἰλισὸν ἀρχόμενον ἐκ μηνοειδοῦς καθήκει τοῦ ποταμοῦ πρὸς τὴν ὄχθην εὐθύ τε καὶ διπλοῦν. τοῦτο ἀνὴρ Ἀθηναῖος Ἡρώδης ᾠκοδόμησε, καί οἱ τὸ πολὺ τῆς λιθοτομίας τῆς Πεντελῆσιν ἐς τὴν οἰκοδομὴν ἀνηλώθη.

After the temple of Olympian Zeus there is near it an image of Pythian Apollo. There is also another sanctuary of Apollo, where he is surnamed Delphinian. They say that when the temple was finished all but the roof, Theseus came to the city, a stranger as yet to every one. He wore a garment that reached to his feet, and had his hair neatly plaited ; so when he came to the temple of the Delphinian Apollo, the men who were making the roof asked him jeeringly why a marriageable maiden like him was rambling alone. Theseus answered them nothing, but unyoking, so it is said, the oxen from the cart which stood by, he tossed them up higher than the roof which the men were making for the temple.

Of the place called the Gardens and of the temple of Aphrodite no story is told, nor yet of the Aphrodite which stands near the temple. The form of this image is square like the images of Hermes: the inscription sets forth that Heavenly Aphrodite is the eldest of the Fates. The image of Aphrodite in the Gardens is a work of Alcamenes, and few things at Athens are so well worth seeing as this.

There is a sanctuary of Hercules which is called Cynosarges: the story of the white bitch may be learnt by reading the oracle. There are altars of Hercules and Hebe, whom they believe to be a child of Zeus and wedded to Hercules. There is also an altar of Alcmena and of Iolaus, who shared most of the labours of Hercules.

The Lyceum takes its name from Lycus, son of Pandion; but from the first and down to our times it has been deemed sacred to Apollo, and here the god was first named Lycean (‘wolfish’). It is said that Lycus also gave his name to the Termilae, who are called Lycians after him: he came to them when he fled from Aegeus.

Behind the Lyceum is the tomb of Nisus, king of Megara, who was slain by Minos. The Athenians brought his body and buried it here. A story is told of this Nisus that he had purple hair on his head, and that he was doomed to die whenever it should be shorn. When the Cretans came into the land they carried the other cities in Megaris by storm, but laid siege to Nisaea in which Nisus had taken refuge. Thereupon, it is said, the daughter of Nisus fell in love with Minos and sheared her father’s hair. So runs the tale.

The Athenian rivers are the Ilissus, and a river that has the same name as the Celtic Eridanus, and falls into the Ilissus. It was at the Ilissus, they say, that Orithyia was playing when the North Wind carried her off and wedded her. And they say it was on account of this affinity that the North Wind helped them, and destroyed most of the barbarian galleys. The Athenians deem the Ilissus sacred to various deities, and in particular there is an altar of the Ilissian Muses on its bank. The spot, too, is shown where the Peloponnesians slew the Athenian king Codrus, son of Melanthus. 7. Across the Ilissus is a district called Agrae and a temple of Huntress Artemis. They say that Artemis first hunted here after she came from Delos; therefore her image has a bow. Wonderful to see, though not so impressive to hear of, is a stadium of white marble. One may best get an idea of its size as follows. It is a hill rising above the Ilissus, of a crescent shape in its upper part, and extending thence in a double straight line to the bank of the river. It was built by the Athenian Herodes, and the greater part of the Pentelic quarries was used up in its construction,

People and places in this passage

English translation by Sir James George Frazer (1898). Original text: Friedrich Spiro (ed.), Pausaniae Graeciae descriptio, 3 vols., Leipzig: Teubner, 1903 (Greek text as digitised by Perseus).

Greek text and translation from the Perseus Digital Library, Tufts University, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Perseus Digital Library, Greek text); translation public domain (OCR from the Internet Archive scan). Introductions, summaries and notes © GreekMythology.com.