ἔστι δὲ ἐκ Μοθώνης ὁδὸς σταδίων μάλιστα ἑκατὸν ἐπὶ τὴν ἄκραν τὸ Κορυφάσιον· ἐπʼ αὐτῇ δὲ ἡ Πύλος κεῖται. ταύτην ᾤκισε Πύλος ὁ Κλήσωνος ἀγαγὼν ἐκ τῆς Μεγαρίδος τοὺς ἔχοντας τότε αὐτὴν Λέλεγας· καὶ τῆς μὲν οὐκ ὤνατο ὑπὸ Νηλέως καὶ τῶν ἐξ Ἰωλκοῦ Πελασγῶν ἐκβληθείς, ἀποχωρήσας δὲ ἐς τὴν ὅμορον ἔσχεν ἐνταῦθα Πύλον τὴν ἐν τῇ Ἠλείᾳ. Νηλεὺς δὲ βασιλεύσας ἐς τοσοῦτο προήγαγεν ἀξιώματος τὴν Πύλον ὡς καὶ Ὅμηρον ἐν τοῖς ἔπεσιν ἄστυ ἐπονομάσαι Νηλήιον.
ἐνταῦθα ἱερόν ἐστιν Ἀθηνᾶς ἐπίκλησιν Κορυφασίας καὶ οἶκος καλούμενος Νέστορος· ἐν δὲ αὐτῷ καὶ ὁ Νέστωρ γέγραπται· καὶ μνῆμα ἐντὸς τῆς πόλεώς ἐστιν αὐτῷ, τὸ δὲ ὀλίγον ἀπωτέρω τῆς Πύλου Θρασυμήδους φασὶν εἶναι. καὶ σπήλαιόν ἐστιν ἐντὸς τῆς πόλεως· βοῦς δὲ ἐνταῦθα τὰς Νέστορος καὶ ἔτι πρότερον Νηλέως φασὶν αὐλίζεσθαι.
εἴη δʼ ἂν Θεσσαλικὸν τὸ γένος τῶν βοῶν τούτων, Ἰφίκλου ποτὲ τοῦ Πρωτεσιλάου πατρός· ταύτας γὰρ δὴ τὰς βοῦς Νηλεὺς ἕδνα ἐπὶ τῇ θυγατρὶ ᾔτει τοὺς μνωμένους, καὶ τούτων ἕνεκα ὁ Μελάμπους χαριζόμενος τῷ ἀδελφῷ Βίαντι ἀφίκετο ἐς τὴν Θεσσαλίαν, καὶ ἐδέθη μὲν ὑπὸ τῶν βουκόλων τοῦ Ἰφίκλου, λαμβάνει δὲ μισθὸν ἐφʼ οἷς αὐτῷ δεηθέντι ἐμαντεύσατο. ἐσπουδάκεσαν δὲ ἄρα οἱ τότε πλοῦτόν τινα συλλέγεσθαι τοιοῦτον, ἵππων καὶ βοῶν ἀγέλας, εἰ δὴ Νηλεύς τε γενέσθαι οἱ βοῦς ἐπεθύμησε τὰς Ἰφίκλου καὶ Ἡρακλεῖ κατὰ δόξαν τῶν ἐν Ἰβηρίᾳ βοῶν προσέταξεν Εὐρυσθεὺς ἐλάσαι τῶν Γηρυόνου βοῶν τὴν ἀγέλην.
φαίνεται δὲ καὶ Ἔρυξ τότε ἐν Σικελίᾳ δυναστεύων δριμὺν οὕτως ἔχων ἐς τὰς βοῦς τὰς ἐξ Ἐρυθείας ἔρωτα, ὥστε καὶ ἐπάλαισε πρὸς τὸν Ἡρακλέα ἆθλα ἐπὶ τῇ πάλῃ καταθέμενος τάς τε βοῦς ταύτας καὶ ἀρχὴν τὴν ἑαυτοῦ. πεποίηκε δὲ καὶ Ὅμηρος ἐν Ἰλιάδι, ὡς Ἰφιδάμας ὁ Ἀντήνορος τὰ πρῶτα τῶν ἕδνων ἑκατὸν βοῦς τῷ πενθερῷ δοίη. ταῦτα μὲν τὸν λόγον μοι βεβαιοῖ, βουσὶ τοὺς τότε χαίρειν μάλιστα ἀνθρώπους·
ἐνέμοντο δὲ ἐμοὶ δοκεῖν αἱ τοῦ Νηλέως βοῦς ἐν τῇ ὑπερορίᾳ τὰ πολλά· ὑπόψαμμός τε γάρ ἐστιν ὡς ἐπίπαν ἡ τῶν Πυλίων χώρα καὶ πόαν βουσὶν οὐχ ἱκανὴ τοσαύτην παρασχέσθαι. μαρτυρεῖ δέ μοι καὶ Ὅμηρος ἐν μνήμῃ Νέστορος ἐπιλέγων ἀεὶ βασιλέα αὐτὸν ἠμαθόεντος εἶναι Πύλου.
τοῦ λιμένος δὲ ἡ Σφακτηρία νῆσος προβέβληται, καθάπερ τοῦ ὅρμου τοῦ Δηλίων ἡ Ῥήνεια· ἐοίκασι δὲ αἱ ἀνθρώπειαι τύχαι καὶ χωρία τέως ἄγνωστα ἐς δόξαν προῆχθαι. Καφηρέως τε γάρ ἐστιν ὄνομα τοῦ ἐν Εὐβοίᾳ τοῖς σὺν Ἀγαμέμνονι Ἕλλησιν ἐπιγενομένου χειμῶνος ἐνταῦθα, ὡς ἐκομίζοντο ἐξ Ἰλίου· Ψυττάλειάν τε τὴν ἐπὶ Σαλαμῖνι ἴσμεν ἀπολομένων ἐν αὐτῇ τῶν Μήδων. ὡσαύτως δὲ καὶ τὴν Σφακτηρίαν τὸ ἀτύχημα τὸ Λακεδαιμονίων γνώριμον τοῖς πᾶσιν ἐποίησεν· Ἀθηναῖοι δὲ καὶ Νίκης ἀνέθηκαν ἄγαλμα ἐν ἀκροπόλει χαλκοῦν ἐς μνήμην τῶν ἐν τῇ Σφακτηρίᾳ.
ἀφικομένων δὲ ἐς Κυπαρισσιὰς ἐκ Πύλου σφίσι πηγὴ ὑπὸ τῇ πόλει πλησίον θαλάσσης ἐστί· ῥυῆναι δὲ Διονύσῳ τὸ ὕδωρ λέγουσι θύρσῳ πλήξαντι ἐς τὴν γῆν, καὶ ἐπὶ τούτῳ Διονυσιάδα ὀνομάζουσι τὴν πηγήν. ἔστι δὲ καὶ Ἀπόλλωνος ἐν Κυπαρισσιαῖς ἱερὸν καὶ Ἀθηνᾶς ἐπίκλησιν Κυπαρισσίας. ἐν δὲ Αὐλῶνι καλουμένῳ ναὸς Ἀσκληπιοῦ καὶ ἄγαλμά ἐστιν Αὐλωνίου· κατὰ τοῦτο ὁ ποταμὸς ἡ Νέδα μεταξὺ τῆς τε Μεσσηνίας ἤδη καὶ τῆς Ἠλείας διέξεισιν.
From Mothone it is a journey of just one hundred furlongs to Cape Coryphasium ; and on the cape lies Pylus. Pylus was founded by Pylus, son of Cleson: he brought from Megaris the Leleges, who at that time occupied it. But he did not enjoy the city which he had founded, being driven out by Neleus and the Pelasgians of Iolcus. So he withdrew to the neighbouring country and there occupied Pylus in Elis. But Neleus, after he became king, raised the repute of Pylus so high that Homer calls it the city of Neleus.
Here there is a sanctuary of Athena surnamed Coryphasian, and a house called the house of Nestor, and in it is a painting of Nestor. His tomb is in the city: the tomb a little way from Pylus is said to be that of Thrasymedes.
There is also in the city a cave, in which they say that the cows of Nestor and of Neleus before him were stalled. These cows must have been of Thessalian breed, having belonged to Iphiclus, father of Protesilaus. For Neleus asked these cows as a bridal present from his daughter’s suitors, and in order to get them Melampus, to please his brother Bias, went to Thessaly. Here the cowherds of Iphiclus laid him by the heels; but at Iphiclus’ request Melampus divined for him and received the cows as his guerdon. Thus we see that people in those days set great store on amassing wealth in the shape of herds of horses and kine. For Neleus coveted the cows of Iphiclus, and Eurystheus, moved by the fame of the Iberian kine, commanded Hercules to lift the cattle of Geryon. Eryx, also, who then reigned in Sicily, is known to have conceived so keen a love of the oxen from Erythea, that he wrestled with Hercules for them, and staked his kingdom against the kine. Again, Homer in the Iliad says that the first marriage present given by Iphidamas, son of Antenor, to his father-in-law was a hundred kine. These facts confirm my view that the men of those times delighted chiefly in cattle. But it seems to me that the kine of Neleus must have mostly grazed beyond the borders ; for the district of Pylus is in general sandy and could not furnish so much grass for cows. In proof of it I may refer to Homer, who in speaking of Nestor always adds that he was king of sandy Pylus.
Off the harbour lies the island of Sphacteria, just as Rhenea lies off the roadstead of Delos. We see that human fortunes can confer renown on places previously unknown. Thus Caphareus in Euboea is famous for the storm which there burst upon the Greeks under Agamemnon as they were returning from Ilium; and everyone has heard of Psyttalia at Salamis, because of the Medes who perished there. So Sphacteria is known to the world for the disaster that there befell the Lacedaemonians. The Athenians set up a bronze image of victory on the Acropolis to commemorate the affair of Sphacteria.
Having come to Cyparissiae from Pylus we see a spring below the city near the sea. They say that Dionysus made the water flow by smiting the earth with his wand; hence they name it the spring of Dionysus. There is also a sanctuary of Apollo at Cyparissiae, and another of Athena surnamed Cyparissian. In the Defile (Aulon), as it is called, there is a temple of Aulonian Aesculapius and an image of him. At this point the river Neda flows between Messenia and Elis.
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