ἐκ δὲ τῆς ἀγορᾶς πρὸς ἥλιον ἰόντι δυόμενον τάφος κενὸς Βρασίδᾳ τῷ Τέλλιδος πεποίηται· ἀπέχει δὲ οὐ πολὺ τοῦ τάφου τὸ θέατρον, λίθου λευκοῦ, θέας ἄξιον. τοῦ θεάτρου δὲ ἀπαντικρὺ Παυσανίου τοῦ Πλαταιᾶσιν ἡγησαμένου μνῆμά ἐστι, τὸ δὲ ἕτερον Λεωνίδου— καὶ λόγους κατὰ ἔτος ἕκαστον ἐπʼ αὐτοῖς λέγουσι καὶ τιθέασιν ἀγῶνα, ἐν ᾧ πλὴν Σπαρτιατῶν ἄλλῳ γε οὐκ ἔστιν ἀγωνίζεσθαι—, τὰ ὀστᾶ τοῦ Λεωνίδου τεσσαράκοντα ἔτεσιν ὕστερον ἀνελομένου ἐκ Θερμοπυλῶν τοῦ Παυσανίου. κεῖται δὲ καὶ στήλη πατρόθεν τὰ ὀνόματα ἔχουσα οἳ πρὸς Μήδους τὸν ἐν Θερμοπύλαις ἀγῶνα ὑπέμειναν.
καλεῖται δὲ ἐν τῇ Σπάρτῃ Θεομηλίδα χωρίον· κατὰ τοῦτο τῆς πόλεως τάφοι τῶν Ἀγιαδῶν βασιλέων εἰσὶ καὶ πλησίον ὀνομαζομένη λέσχη Κροτανῶν· εἰσὶ δὲ οἱ Κροτανοὶ Πιτανατῶν μοῖρα. Ἀσκληπιοῦ δὲ οὐ πόρρω τῆς λέσχης ἐστὶν ἱερὸν, ἐν Ἀγιαδῶν καλούμενον. προελθοῦσι δὲ Ταινάρου μνῆμά ἐστι, καὶ τὴν ἄκραν τὴν ἐς θάλασσαν ἐσέχουσαν ἀπὸ τούτου φασὶν ὀνομασθῆναι· θεῶν δὲ ἱερὰ Ποσειδῶνός ἐστιν Ἱπποκουρίου καὶ Ἀρτέμιδος Αἰγιναίας. ἐπανελθοῦσι δὲ ὀπίσω πρὸς τὴν λέσχην ἐστὶν Ἀρτέμιδος Ἰσσωρίας ἱερόν· ἐπονομάζουσι δὲ αὐτὴν καὶ Λιμναίαν, οὖσαν οὐκ Ἄρτεμιν, Βριτόμαρτιν δὲ τὴν Κρητῶν· τὰ δὲ ἐς αὐτὴν ὁ Αἰγιναῖος ἔχει μοι λόγος.
ἐγγυτάτω δὲ τῶν μνημάτων ἃ τοῖς Ἀγιάδαις πεποίηται στήλην ὄψει, γεγραμμέναι δέ εἰσιν ἃς Χίονις ἀνὴρ Λακεδαιμόνιος δρόμου νίκας ἀνείλετο ἄλλας τε καὶ Ὀλυμπίασιν· ἐνταῦθα δὲ ἑπτὰ ἐγένοντό οἱ νῖκαι, τέσσαρες μὲν σταδίου, διαύλου δὲ αἱ λοιπαί· τὸν δὲ σὺν τῇ ἀσπίδι δρόμον ἐπὶ ἀγῶνι λήγοντι οὐ συνέβαινεν εἶναί πω. Χίονιν δὲ καὶ τοῦ στόλου μετασχεῖν τῷ Θηραίῳ Βάττῳ καὶ Κυρήνην οἰκίσαι σὺν ἐκείνῳ καὶ Λιβύων καταστρέψασθαι τοὺς προσχώρους λέγουσιν.
τὸ δὲ ἱερὸν τῆς Θέτιδος κατασκευασθῆναί φασιν ἐπʼ αἰτίᾳ τοιαύτῃ· πολεμεῖν μὲν πρὸς Μεσσηνίους ἀφεστηκότας, τὸν δὲ βασιλέα σφῶν Ἀνάξανδρον ἐσβαλόντα ἐς τὴν Μεσσηνίαν λαβεῖν αἰχμαλώτους γυναῖκας, ἐν δὲ αὐταῖς εἶναι Κλεώ, Θέτιδος δὲ αὐτὴν ἱέρειαν εἶναι. ταύτην ἡ τοῦ Ἀναξάνδρου γυνὴ τὴν Κλεὼ παρὰ τοῦ Ἀναξάνδρου αἰτεῖ, καὶ τό τε ξόανον τῆς Θέτιδος ἀνεῦρεν ἔχουσαν καὶ ναὸν μετʼ αὐτῆς ἱδρύσατο τῇ θεῷ· ἐποίει δὲ ταῦτα ἡ Λεανδρὶς κατὰ ὄψιν ὀνείρατος.
τὸ μὲν δὴ ξόανον τῆς Θέτιδος ἐν ἀπορρήτῳ φυλάσσουσι· Δήμητρα δὲ Χθονίαν Λακεδαιμόνιοι μὲν σέβειν φασὶ παραδόντος σφίσιν Ὀρφέως, δόξῃ δὲ ἐμῇ διὰ τὸ ἱερὸν τὸ ἐν Ἑρμιόνῃ κατέστη καὶ τούτοις Χθονίαν νομίζειν Δήμητρα. ἔστι δὲ καὶ Σαράπιδος νεώτατον τοῦτο Σπαρτιάταις ἱερὸν καὶ Διὸς ἐπίκλησιν Ὀλυμπίου.
καλοῦσι δὲ Λακεδαιμόνιοι Δρόμον, ἔνθα τοῖς νέοις καὶ ἐφʼ ἡμῶν ἔτι δρόμου μελέτη καθέστηκεν. ἐς τοῦτον τὸν Δρόμον ἰόντι ἀπὸ τοῦ τάφου τῶν Ἀγιαδῶν ἔστιν ἐν ἀριστερᾷ μνῆμα Εὐμήδους, Ἱπποκόωντος δὲ καὶ οὗτος ἦν ὁ Εὐμήδης· ἔστι δὲ ἄγαλμα ἀρχαῖον Ἡρακλέους, ᾧ θύουσιν οἱ Σφαιρεῖς· οἱ δέ εἰσιν οἱ ἐκ τῶν ἐφήβων ἐς ἄνδρας ἀρχόμενοι συντελεῖν. πεποίηται δὲ καὶ γυμνάσια ἐν τῷ Δρόμῳ, τὸ ἕτερον Εὐρυκλέους ἀνάθημα ἀνδρὸς Σπαρτιάτου· τοῦ Δρόμου δὲ ἐκτὸς κατὰ τοῦ Ἡρακλέους τὸ ἄγαλμα ἔστιν οἰκία τὰ ἐφʼ ἡμῶν ἰδιώτου, Μενελάου τὸ ἀρχαῖον. προελθόντι δὲ ἀπὸ τοῦ Δρόμου Διοσκούρων ἱερὸν καὶ Χαρίτων, τὸ δὲ Εἰλειθυίας ἐστὶν Ἀπόλλωνός τε Καρνείου καὶ Ἀρτέμιδος Ἡγεμόνης·
τὸ δὲ τοῦ Ἀγνίτα πεποίηται μὲν ἐν δεξιᾷ τοῦ Δρόμου, Ἀσκληπιοῦ δέ ἐστιν ἐπίκλησις ὁ Ἀγνίτας, ὅτι ἦν ἄγνου τῷ θεῷ ξόανον· ἡ δὲ ἄγνος λύγος καὶ αὐτὴ κατὰ ταὐτά ἐστι τῇ ῥάμνῳ. τοῦ Ἀσκληπιοῦ δὲ οὐ πόρρω τρόπαιον ἕστηκε, Πολυδεύκην δὲ ἀναστῆσαί φασιν ἐπὶ Λυγκεῖ· καί μοι καὶ τοῦτο ἀποφαίνει τὸν λόγον εἰκότα, οὐ ταφῆναι τοὺς Ἀφαρέως παῖδας ἐν Σπάρτῃ. πρὸς δὲ τοῦ Δρόμου τῇ ἀρχῇ Διόσκουροί τέ εἰσιν Ἀφετήριοι καὶ ὀλίγον προελθόντι ἡρῷον Ἄλκωνος· τὸν δὲ Ἄλκωνα λέγουσιν Ἱπποκόωντας παῖδα εἶναι. παρὰ δὲ τοῦ Ἄλκωνος τὸ ἡρῷον Ποσειδῶνός ἐστιν ἱερόν, Δωματίτην δὲ ἐπονομάζουσιν.
καὶ χωρίον Πλατανιστᾶς ἐστιν ἀπὸ τῶν δένδρων, αἳ δὴ ὑψηλαὶ καὶ συνεχεῖς περὶ αὐτὸ αἱ πλάτανοι πεφύκασιν. αὐτὸ δὲ τὸ χωρίον, ἔνθα τοῖς ἐφήβοις μάχεσθαι καθέστηκε, κύκλῳ μὲν εὔριπος περιέχει κατὰ ταὐτὰ καὶ εἰ νῆσον θάλασσα, ἔφοδοι δὲ ἐπὶ γεφυρῶν εἰσι. γεφυρῶν δὲ ἐφʼ ἑκατέρᾳ τῇ μέν ἐστιν ἄγαλμα Ἡρακλέους, τῇ δὲ εἰκὼν Λυκούργου· νόμους δὲ ἔς τε τὴν ἄλλην πολιτείαν καὶ ἐς τὴν μάχην τῶν ἐφήβων ἔθηκεν ὁ Λυκοῦργος.
καὶ τάδε ἄλλα τοῖς ἐφήβοις δρώμενά ἐστι· θύουσι πρὸ τῆς μάχης ἐν τῷ Φοιβαίῳ· τὸ δὲ Φοιβαῖόν ἐστιν ἐκτὸς τῆς πόλεως, Θεράπνης οὐ πολὺ ἀφεστηκός. ἐνταῦθα ἑκατέρα μοῖρα τῶν ἐφήβων σκύλακα κυνὸς τῷ Ἐνυαλίῳ θύουσι, θεῶν τῷ ἀλκιμωτάτῳ κρίνοντες ἱερεῖον κατὰ γνώμην εἶναι τὸ ἀλκιμώτατον ζῷον τῶν ἡμέρων. κυνὸς δὲ σκύλακας οὐδένας ἄλλους οἶδα Ἑλλήνων νομίζοντας θύειν ὅτι μὴ Κολοφωνίους· θύουσι γὰρ καὶ Κολοφώνιοι μέλαιναν τῇ Ἐνοδίῳ σκύλακα. νυκτεριναὶ δὲ ἥ τε Κολοφωνίων θυσία καὶ τῶν ἐν Λακεδαίμονι ἐφήβων καθεστήκασιν.
ἐπὶ δὲ τῇ θυσίᾳ κάπρους ἠθάδας οἱ ἔφηβοι συμβάλλουσι μαχουμένους· ὁποτέρων δʼ ἂν ὁ κάπρος τύχῃ νικῶν, ἐν τῷ Πλατανιστᾷ κρατῆσαι τούτους ὡς τὰ πλείω συμβαίνει. τοσάδε μὲν δρῶσιν ἐν τῷ Φοιβαίῳ· ἐς δὲ τὴν ἐπιοῦσαν ὀλίγον πρὸ μεσούσης ἡμέρας ἐσίασι κατὰ τὰς γεφύρας ἐς τὸ εἰρημένον χωρίον. τὴν μὲν δὴ ἔσοδον, καθʼ ἣν ἐσελθεῖν δεῦρο ἔστιν ἑκατέραν τάξιν, προεδήλωσε κλῆρός σφισιν ἐν τῇ νυκτί· μάχονται δὲ καὶ ἐν χερσὶ καὶ ἐμπηδῶντες λάξ, δάκνουσί τε καὶ τοὺς ὀφθαλμοὺς ἀντορύσσουσιν. ἀνὴρ μὲν δὴ πρὸς ἄνδρα τὸν εἰρημένον τρόπον μάχεται· ἀθρόοι δέ ἐμπίπτουσι βιαίως καὶ ἐς τὸ ὕδωρ ὠθοῦσιν ἀλλήλους.
Going westward from the market-place we come to a cenotaph of Brasidas, son of Tellis. Not far from the grave is the theatre: it is built of white marble, and is worth seeing. Opposite the theatre is the tomb of Pausanias, who commanded at Plataea: the other tomb is that of Leonidas. Every year speeches are spoken over the graves, and games are held, in which none but Spartans may compete. The bones of Leonidas were removed from Thermopylae by Pausanias forty years after the battle. There is also a tablet with the names of the men who looked the Persians in the face at Thermopylae: the names of their fathers are also recorded.
There is a place in Sparta that goes by the name of Theomelida. In this quarter of the city are the graves of the Agid kings, and near them is what is called the Club-room of the Crotanians, the Crotanians being a division of the Pitanatians. Not far from the Club-room is a sanctuary of Aesculapius, called ‘In Agids.’ Farther on we come to the tomb of Taenarus: they say that the cape which juts out into the sea was named after him. There are also sanctuaries of Horse-tending Poseidon and Aeginaean Artemis. Having returned to the Club-room we come to a sanctuary of Artemis Issora: they surname her also the Lady of the Lake. But in reality she is not Artemis, but Britomartis of Crete. I have told her story in describing Aegina.
Close to the tombs of the Agids you will see a tablet inscribed with a list of the Olympic and other prizes for running won by Chionis, a Lacedaemonian. He gained seven victories at Olympia, four in the single and the rest in the double race. In his time the shield race at the close of the games was not yet instituted. They say that Chionis joined Battus of Thera in his expedition, and helped him to found Cyrene and subdue the neighbouring Libyans.
The sanctuary of Thetis, they say, was constructed for the following cause. In the war with the Messenian rebels, King Anaxander invaded Messenia, and among the women who fell into his hands was Cleo, priestess of Thetis. Anaxander’s wife, Leandris, asked him to give her Cleo. She found that the priestess was in possession of the wooden image of Thetis, and with Cleo’s help she founded a temple in honour of the goddess. Leandris did this, being warned by a vision in a dream. The wooden image of Thetis is still preserved in secret.
The Lacedaemonians say that the worship of Subterranean (Chthonia) Demeter was taught them by Orpheus; but in my opinion they, like other people, derived it from the sanctuary at Hermion. There is also a sanctuary of Serapis (the newest sanctuary in Sparta), and another of Olympian Zeus.
The Lacedaemonians give the name of the Course to the place where the youths are still in the habit of practising running. On the left of the way, as you go from the grave of the Agids to the Course, is the tomb of Eumedes, one of the sons of Hippocoon. There is also an ancient image of Hercules, to which the Sphaereans sacrifice. The Sphaereans are the lads just entering on manhood. There are also two gymnasiums in the Course, one of which was built as a votive offering by Eurycles, a Spartan. Outside the Course and opposite the image of Hercules is a house which at present belongs to a private man, but was of old the house of Menelaus. Going forward from the Course you come to a sanctuary of the Dioscuri and the Graces, and to another of Ilithyia, Carnean Apollo, and Leader Artemis.
The sanctuary of Agnitas is built on the right of the Course. Agnitas is a surname of Aesculapius, because the image of the god was of agnos wood. The agnos is a kind of willow just like the rhammnos. Not far from Aesculapius stands a trophy: they say that it was erected by Pollux for his victory over Lynceus. This seems to me to strengthen the probability that the sons of Aphareus are not buried in Sparta. At the beginning of the Course are the Dioscuri, Starters of the Race, and a little farther on is a shrine of the hero Alcon: they say that Alcon was a son of Hippocoon. Beside the shrine of Alcon is a sanctuary of Poseidon, whom they surname Poseidon of the House.
There is a place, Plane-tree Grove, so called from the tall plane-trees which grow in an unbroken line around it. The place where the lads fight is surrounded by a moat as an island is surrounded by the sea. It is entered by two bridges. On each of the bridges is an image of Hercules on one side, and a statue of Lycurgus on the other. For amongst the laws which Lycurgus laid down for the framing of the constitution were rules regulating the fighting of the lads.
The following customs are also observed by the lads. Before the fight they sacrifice in the Phoebaeum, which is outside the city, not far from Therapne. Here each of the two divisions of the lads sacrifices a puppy to Enyalius (the War-god), judging that the most valiant of domestic animals must be acceptable to the most valiant of the gods. I know of no other Greeks except the Colophonians who are in the habit of sacrificing puppies. The Colophonians sacrifice a black female puppy to the Wayside Goddess. Both the Colophonian sacrifice and the sacrifice offered by the lads at Lacedaemon are offered by night. After the sacrifice the lads pit tame boars against each other, and the side whose boar wins generally conquers in Planetree Grove. All this is done in the Phoebaeum. On the morrow, a little before noon, they enter by the bridges into the said place. The entrance by which each of the two bands passes into the arena is decided by lot during the previous night. In fighting they strike, and kick, and bite, and gouge out each other’s eyes. Thus they fight man against man. But they also charge in serried masses, and push each other into the water.
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