Pausanias · Description of Greece Ἑλλάδος Περιήγησις

Pausanias, Description of Greece 1.44.1–10: Megara to the Isthmus: Nisaea, Pagae and the Sciron road

Pausanias notes the grave of Orsippus, the sanctuary of Tutelary Apollo, the old gymnasium and the port of Nisaea with the tomb of Lelex. He describes Pagae, with its Saviour Artemis and the shrine of Aegialeus, and Aegosthena, with the sanctuary of Melampus and the tomb of Autonoe. The Sciron road leads past the Molurian rock, with the story of Ino and Melicertes, the rocks of Sciron, the temple of Zeus the Hurler and the tomb of Eurystheus, to the border with Corinth.

Sections 1.44.1–10 · 1073 words · click a number to copy its link

Κοροίβου δὲ τέθαπται πλησίον Ὄρσιππος, ὃς περιεζωσμένων ἐν τοῖς ἀγῶσι κατὰ δὴ παλαιὸν ἔθος τῶν ἀθλητῶν Ὀλύμπια ἐνίκα στάδιον δραμὼν γυμνός, φασὶ δὲ καὶ στρατηγοῦντα ὕστερον τὸν Ὄρσιππον ἀποτεμέσθαι χώραν τῶν προσοίκων· δοκῶ δέ οἱ καὶ ἐν Ὀλυμπίᾳ τὸ περίζωμα ἑκόντι περιρρυῆναι, γνόντι ὡς ἀνδρὸς περιεζωσμένου δραμεῖν ῥᾴων ἐστὶν ἀνὴρ γυμνὸς.

ἐκ δὲ τῆς ἀγορᾶς κατιοῦσι τῆς ὁδοῦ τῆς Εὐθείας καλουμένης Ἀπόλλωνος ἱερόν ἐστιν ἐν δεξιᾷ Προστατηρίου· τοῦτο ὀλίγον ἐκτραπέντα ἔστιν ἐκ τῆς ὁδοῦ ἀνευρεῖν. Ἀπόλλων δὲ ἐν αὐτῷ κεῖται θέας ἄξιος καὶ Ἄρτεμις καὶ Λητὼ καὶ ἄλλα ἀγάλματά ἐστι Πραξιτέλους ποιήσαντος . ἔστι δὲ ἐν τῷ γυμνασίῳ τῷ ἀρχαίῳ πλησίον πυλῶν καλουμένων Νυμφάδων λίθος παρεχόμενος πυραμίδος σχῆμα οὐ μεγάλης· τοῦτον Ἀπόλλωνα ὀνομάζουσι Καρινόν, καὶ Εἰλειθυιῶν ἐστιν ἐνταῦθα ἱερόν. τοσαῦτά σφισιν ἐς ἐπίδειξιν παρείχετο ἡ πόλις·

ἐς δὲ τὸ ἐπίνειον, καλούμενον καὶ ἐς ἡμᾶς ἔτι Νίσαιαν, ἐς τοῦτο κατελθοῦσιν ἱερὸν Δήμητρός ἐστι Μαλοφόρου· λέγεται δὲ καὶ ἄλλα ἐς τὴν ἐπίκλησιν καὶ τοὺς πρώτους πρόβατα ἐν τῇ γῇ θρέψαντας Δήμητρα ὀνομάσαι Μαλοφόρον, καταρρυῆναι δὲ τῷ ἱερῷ τὸν ὄροφον τεκμαίροιτο ἄν τις ὑπὸ τοῦ χρόνου. καὶ ἀκρόπολίς ἐστιν ἐνταῦθα ὀνομαζομένη καὶ αὐτὴ Νίσαια· καταβᾶσι δὲ ἐκ τῆς ἀκροπόλεως μνῆμά ἐστι πρὸς θαλάσσῃ Λέλεγος, ὃν ἀφικόμενον βασιλεῦσαι λέγουσιν ἐξ Αἰγύπτου, παῖδα δὲ εἶναι Ποσειδῶνος καὶ Λιβύης τῆς Ἐπάφου. παρήκει δὲ παρὰ τὴν Νίσαιαν νῆσος οὐ μεγάλη Μινώα· ἐνταῦθα ἐν τῷ πολέμῳ τῷ πρὸς Νῖσον παρώρμει τὸ ναυτικὸν τῶν Κρητῶν.

ἡ δὲ ὀρεινὴ τῆς Μεγαρίδος τῆς Βοιωτῶν ἐστιν ὅμορος, ἐν ᾗ Μεγαρεῦσι Παγαὶ πόλις, ἑτέρα δὲ Αἰγόσθενα ᾤκισται. ἰοῦσι δὲ ἐς τὰς Παγὰς ἐκτραπομένοις ὀλίγον τῆς λεωφόρου πέτρα δείκνυται διὰ πάσης ἔχουσα ἐμπεπηγότας ὀιστούς, ἐς ἣν οἱ Μῆδοί ποτε ἐτόξευον ἐν τῇ νυκτί. ἐν δὲ ταῖς Παγαῖς θέας ὑπελείπετο ἄξιον Ἀρτέμιδος Σωτείρας ἐπίκλησιν χαλκοῦν ἄγαλμα, μεγέθει τῷ παρὰ Μεγαρεῦσιν ἴσον καὶ σχῆμα οὐδὲν διαφόρως ἔχον. καὶ Αἰγιαλέως ἐνταῦθά ἐστιν ἡρῷον τοῦ Ἀδράστου· τοῦτον γάρ, ὅτε Ἀργεῖοι τὸ δεύτερον ἐς Θήβας ἐστράτευσαν, ὑπὸ τὴν πρώτην μάχην πρὸς Γλισᾶντι ἀποθανόντα οἱ προσήκοντες ἐς Παγὰς τῆς Μεγαρίδος κομίσαντες θάπτουσι, καὶ Αἰγιάλειον ἔτι καλεῖται τὸ ἡρῷον.

ἐν Αἰγοσθένοις δὲ Μελάμποδος τοῦ Ἀμυθάονός ἐστιν ἱερὸν καὶ ἀνὴρ οὐ μέγας ἐπειργασμένος ἐν στήλῃ· καὶ θύουσι τῷ Μελάμποδι καὶ ἀνὰ πᾶν ἔτος ἑορτὴν ἄγουσι. μαντεύεσθαι δὲ οὔτε διʼ ὀνειράτων αὐτὸν οὔτε ἄλλως λέγουσι. καὶ τόδε ἄλλο ἤκουσα ἐν Ἐρενείᾳ τῇ Μεγαρέων κώμῃ, Αὐτονόην τὴν Κάδμου τῷ τε Ἀκταίωνος θανάτῳ, συμβάντι ὡς λέγεται, καὶ τῇ πάσῃ τοῦ οἴκου τοῦ πατρῴου τύχῃ περισσότερον ἀλγοῦσαν ἐνταῦθα ἐκ Θηβῶν μετοικῆσαι· καὶ Αὐτονόης μνῆμά ἐστιν ἐν τῇ κώμῃ ταύτῃ.

ἰοῦσι δὲ ἐκ Μεγάρων ἐς Κόρινθον ἄλλοι τέ εἰσι τάφοι καὶ αὐλητοῦ Σαμίου Τηλεφάνους· ποιῆσαι δὲ τὸν τάφον Κλεοπάτραν τὴν Φιλίππου τοῦ Ἀμύντου λέγουσι. καὶ Καρὸς τοῦ Φορωνέως μνῆμά ἐστι, τὸ μὲν ἐξ ἀρχῆς χῶμα γῆς, ὕστερον δὲ τοῦ θεοῦ χρήσαντος ἐκοσμήθη λίθῳ κογχίτῃ. μόνοις δὲ Ἑλλήνων Μεγαρεῦσιν ὁ κογχίτης οὗτός ἐστι, καί σφισι καὶ ἐν τῇ πόλει πεποίηται πολλὰ ἐξ αὐτοῦ. ἔστι δὲ ἄγαν λευκὸς καὶ ἄλλου λίθου μαλακώτερος· κόγχοι δὲ αἱ θαλάσσιαι διὰ παντὸς ἔνεισίν οἱ. αὐτὸς μὲν τοιοῦτός ἐστιν ὁ λίθος· τὴν δὲ ὀνομαζομένην ἀπὸ Σκίρωνος καὶ ἐς τόδε Σκιρωνίδα Σκίρων, ἡνίκα Μεγαρεῦσιν ἐπολεμάρχει, πρῶτος ὡς λέγουσιν ἐποίησεν ἀνδράσιν ὁδεύειν εὐζώνοις· Ἀδριανὸς δὲ ὁ βασιλεὺς καὶ οὕτως ὡς καὶ ἅρματα ἐναντία ἐλαύνεσθαι κατέστησεν εὐρυχωρῆ τε καὶ ἐπιτηδείαν εἶναι.

λόγοι δέ εἰσιν ἐς τὰς πέτρας, αἳ κατὰ τὸ στενὸν τῆς ὁδοῦ μάλιστα ἀνέχουσιν, ἐς μὲν τὴν Μολουρίδα, ὡς ἀπὸ ταύτης αὑτὴν ἐς θάλασσαν Ἰνὼ ῥίψαι Μελικέρτην ἔχουσα τῶν παίδων τὸν νεώτερον· τὸν γὰρ δὴ πρεσβύτερον αὐτῶν Λέαρχον ἀπέκτεινεν ὁ πατήρ. λέγεται μὲν δὴ καὶ μανέντα δρᾶσαι ταῦτα Ἀθάμαντα, λέγεται δὲ καὶ ὡς ἐς τὴν Ἰνὼ καὶ τοὺς ἐξ αὐτῆς παῖδας χρήσαιτο ἀκρατεῖ τῷ θυμῷ τὸν συμβάντα Ὀρχομενίοις λιμὸν καὶ τὸν δοκοῦντα Φρίξου θάνατον αἰσθόμενος, οὗ τὸ θεῖον αἴτιον οὐ γενέσθαι, βουλεῦσαι δὲ ἐπὶ τούτοις πᾶσιν Ἰνὼ μητρυιὰν οὖσαν·

τότε δὲ φεύγουσα ἐς θάλασσαν αὑτὴν καὶ τὸν παῖδα ἀπὸ τῆς πέτρας τῆς Μολουρίδος ἀφίησιν, ἐξενεχθέντος δὲ ἐς τὸν Κορινθίων ἰσθμὸν ὑπὸ δελφῖνος ὡς λέγεται τοῦ παιδός, τιμαὶ καὶ ἄλλαι τῷ Μελικέρτῃ δίδονται μετονομασθέντι Παλαίμονι καὶ τῶν Ἰσθμίων ἐπʼ αὐτῷ τὸν ἀγῶνα ἄγουσι. τὴν μὲν δὴ Μολουρίδα πέτραν Λευκοθέας καὶ Παλαίμονος ἱερὰν ἥγηντο· τὰς δὲ μετὰ ταύτην νομίζουσιν ἐναγεῖς, ὅτι παροικῶν σφισιν ὁ Σκίρων, ὁπόσοις τῶν ξένων ἐπετύγχανεν, ἠφίει σφᾶς ἐς τὴν θάλασσαν. χελώνη δὲ ὑπενήχετο ταῖς πέτραις τοὺς ἐσβληθέντας ἁρπάζειν· εἰσὶ δὲ αἱ θαλάσσιαι πλὴν μεγέθους καὶ ποδῶν ὅμοιαι ταῖς χερσαίαις, πόδας δὲ ἐοικότας ἔχουσι ταῖς φώκαις. τούτων περιῆλθεν ἡ δίκη Σκίρωνα ἀφεθέντα ἐς θάλασσαν τὴν αὐτὴν ὑπὸ Θησέως.

ἐπὶ δὲ τοῦ ὄρους τῇ ἄκρᾳ Διός ἐστιν Ἀφεσίου καλουμένου ναός· φασὶ δὲ ἐπὶ τοῦ συμβάντος ποτὲ τοῖς Ἕλλησιν αὐχμοῦ θύσαντος Αἰακοῦ κατά τι δὴ λόγιον τῷ Πανελληνίῳ Διὶ ἐν Αἰγίνῃ †κομίσαντα δὲ ἀφεῖναι καὶ διὰ τοῦτο Ἀφέσιον καλεῖσθαι τὸν Δία. ἐνταῦθα καὶ Ἀφροδίτης ἄγαλμα καὶ Ἀπόλλωνός ἐστι καὶ Πανός.

προελθοῦσι δὲ ἐς τὸ πρόσω μνῆμά ἐστιν Εὐρυσθέως· φεύγοντα δὲ ἐκ τῆς Ἀττικῆς μετὰ τὴν πρὸς Ἡρακλείδας μάχην ἐνταῦθα ἀποθανεῖν αὐτὸν ὑπὸ Ἰολάου λέγουσιν. ἐκ ταύτης τῆς ὁδοῦ καταβᾶσιν Ἀπόλλωνος ἱερόν ἐστι Λατῴου καὶ μετʼ αὐτὸ Μεγαρεῦσιν ὅροι πρὸς τὴν Κορινθίαν, ἔνθα Ὕλλον τὸν Ἡρακλέους μονομαχῆσαι πρὸς τὸν Ἀρκάδα Ἔχεμον λέγουσιν.

Near the grave of Coroebus is the grave of Orsippus, who won the race at Olympia running naked, whereas according to an ancient custom athletes had previously worn girdles in the games. They say that afterwards Orsippus as general annexed part of the neighbouring territory. I believe that at Olympia he purposely dropped his girdle, knowing that a man can run more easily naked than girt with a girdle.

Descending from the market-place by the street that is called Straight, we have on the right a sanctuary of Tutelary Apollo: it can be found by turning a little way out of the street. In it is an image of Apollo that is worth seeing; also images of Artemis, Latona, and others: Latona and her children are by Praxiteles.

In the old gymnasium, near the gate called the Gate of the Nymphs, is a stone in the shape of a small pyramid: they name it Apollo Carinus; and there is a sanctuary of the Ilithyias here. Such are the sights that the city had to show.

Having gone down to the port, which is still called Nisaea, we come to a sanctuary of Malophorian (‘sheep-bearing’ or ‘apple-bearing’) Demeter. Among the explanations offered of this surname is that it was given to Demeter by the first men who reared sheep in the country. We may infer that the roof of the sanctuary has fallen in through the effects of time.

Here, too, there is an acropolis which is also named Nisaea. Descending from the acropolis we come to the tomb of Lelex beside the sea. They say that Lelex came from Egypt and reigned, and that he was a son of Poseidon and Libya, daughter of Epaphus. Parallel to Nisaea lies the small island of Minoa: here the Cretan fleet anchored in the war with Nisus.

The mountainous part of Megaris borders on Boeotia: in it are the Megarian cities of Pagae and Aegosthena. A little way out of the high-road which leads to Pagae a rock is shown with arrows sticking all over it: it was at this rock that the Medes shot in the night.

In Pagae there was left a bronze image of Saviour Artemis which was worth seeing: it is equal in size to the image at Megara, and not different in shape. Here, too, is a shrine of the hero Aegialeus, son of Adrastus. For when the Argives marched against Thebes the second time, he was slain at Glisas in the first battle, and his kinsmen carried him to Pagae, in Megaris, and buried him there, and the shrine is still called by his name.

In Aegosthena there is a sanctuary of Melampus, son of Amythaon, and a small figure of a man carved in relief on a monument; and they sacrifice to Melampus and hold a yearly festival. They say he divines neither by dreams nor in any other way. And I heard another thing in Erenea, a Megarian village, that Autonoe, daughter of Cadmus, migrated thither from Thebes out of excess of grief at the death of Actaeon (which they narrate in the usual way) and at the whole fortunes of the house of her fathers. Autonoe’s tomb is in this village. 9. Among the graves on the road from Megara to Corinth is that of the Samian flute-player Telephanes: they say that the grave was made by Cleopatra, daughter of Philip, son of Amyntas. There is also a tomb of Car the son of Phoroneus: it was originally a mound of earth, but afterwards in obedience to an oracle it was adorned with mussel-stone. Megaris is the only part of Greece where this mussel-stone is found, and many buildings in the city are made of it. It is very white and softer than other stone, and there are sea-mussels all through it. Such is the nature of this stone. 10. The road which is still named after Sciron was first, they say, made passable for foot-passengers by Sciron when he was war minister of Megara; but the Emperor Hadrian made it so wide and convenient that even chariots could meet on it. 11. Stories are told of the rocks that rise especially at the narrow part of the road. Of the Molurian rock it is told how Ino flung herself from it into the sea with her younger son Melicertes in her arms; for her elder son Learchus had been killed by his father. One story is that Athamas did this in a fit of madness: another is that he wreaked on Ino and her children his ungovernable rage when he perceived that the famine which had visited the Orchomenians, and the supposed death of Phrixus, were caused, not by the deity, but by the machinations of the stepmother Ino. So she fled and hurled herself and the child from the Molurian rock into the sea. But the boy, it is said, was landed on the Isthmus of Corinth by a dolphin: his name was changed from Melicertes to Palaemon ; and the Isthmian games were held in his honour, and other marks of respect bestowed on him. 12. The Molurian rock was deemed sacred to Leucothoe and Palaemon; but the rocks next after it they esteem accursed, because Sciron dwelt beside them, and hurled every stranger he met with into the sea. A tortoise swam at the foot of the cliffs to pounce on the people who were thrown in. Sea tortoises are like land tortoises, except in respect of their size and of their feet ; for they have feet like the feet of seals. But justice overtook Sciron; for he was hurled by Theseus into the same sea. 13. On the top of the mountain is a temple of Zeus, who is here called Hurler. They say that when a drought had fallen on Greece, Aeacus, in obedience to an oracle, sacrificed to Panhellenian Zeus in Aegina . . . and brought and hurled it, and hence Zeus, is called Hurler. Here, too, are images of Aphrodite, Apollo, and Pan. 14. Farther on we come to the tomb of Eurystheus. They say that he was killed here by Iolaus as he was fleeing from Attica after the battle with the Heraclids. Descending from this road we come to a sanctuary of Latoan Apollo, and after it to the boundaries of Megaris and Corinth, where they say that Hyllus, son of Hercules, engaged in single combat with the Arcadian Echemus.

People and places in this passage

English translation by Sir James George Frazer (1898). Original text: Friedrich Spiro (ed.), Pausaniae Graeciae descriptio, 3 vols., Leipzig: Teubner, 1903 (Greek text as digitised by Perseus).

Greek text and translation from the Perseus Digital Library, Tufts University, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Perseus Digital Library, Greek text); translation public domain (OCR from the Internet Archive scan). Introductions, summaries and notes © GreekMythology.com.